jigstick

Alright. Guess I’m back to Yamis or Verados

I did not. That certainly may change my plans

I’m considering a new boat and powering it with twin Evinrude ETEC G2 150 HOs engines. I like the compact size, power output, and internal steering components. Anybody have any expierence with Evinrude outboards ?

I use SternSaver kits. Had everything you need to adhere the composite board to your transom. Mine have been on for 7yrs so far without issue. if you have old holes that need filled run a drill bit in there and see how wet the transom is. Hog out the hole to a larger OD. Then use a counter sink bit to bevel the edge. purchase G Flex 2 part epoxy. Mix some up. And inject into the holes with a syringe. Cover with a piece of tape and let it set. G flex will penetrate moist wood and cure rock solid. You can even tap it similiar to marine Tex. once set up remove the tape. Sand it down into the bevel you made. And skim coat with Gel Coat. Use emery cloth or wet sand the gel coat smooth. you could also just glob 5200 into the hole but it expands out and looks like crap. And it doesn’t really penetrate damp transom cores

Garmin with GT23TM mid band 600 watt chirp / down imaging transducer. Just installed this setup and networked in Garmin Reactor autopilot to it. It is extremely nice. Outside of some of the Simrad installs Ive seen it has to be one of my favorites.

Chas Can you clarify your set up for me. Did you install your new steering ram onto the factory power assist cylinder? But then took the factory power assist cylinder out of the loop by disconnecting the factory hydraulic line going from the power steering pump back to the assist cylinder? And by this your basically just using the factory power assist cylinder as a "mounting bracket" for the new ram? If this is the case that is fantastic to know. Because Ive been wanting to take the factory power assist pump and cylinder out of the equation. But I wasnt sure if it would work.

I want to point something out here. With my install...by that I mean installing the new ram onto the factory power assist cylinder (where your original cable went) works for me because I troll with my main engine. if you’re attempting this install, to have the hydraulic AP work on a kicker slaved to the outdrive with a yoke assembly and your main engine off...I’m not sure that it’s going to work for you. for that type of set up you may have to add T fittings / valves to divert the fluid flow towards your kicker motor...which would also need its own ram

That’s a good question. I do not know.

Yes it would work. But you will need to fabricate some type of mount for the new seastar cylinder. You’ll also need a new drive belt because when you remove the power steering pump the original will end up being too long. For these reasons I chose just to leave the factory power assist in place. If you come up with a good solution please let me know. I’d be interested in seeing what you came up with.

I’d be happy to discuss this type of install on the phone if you’d like. Atleast tell you my experiences with mine thus far. Let me know.

With the octopus helm drives you’ll need to change out your steering cable as well. And they require 10-12in of space behind the dash.

That was my boat. I did this conversion and spliced in hydraulic autopilot. Easy job. my post should list most of the components. I actually used a cylinder designed for outboard engines because of a clearance issue. I called Seastar and talked to them about it. The cylinder they told me to use was the same volume and power rated but slightly shorter in length.

I have a twin turbo ecoboost with 410HP in my Ford Expedition. And a heavy duty towing package. Tows up to 9300-9500lbs I believe depending on the rear axle gear ratio. The trailer has electric over hydraulic

I’m considering buying a Robalo R245 with twin yamis. It has a 105” Beam. So 3in wider than most states 8ft 6in towing limit width. I’m not certain it would even be noticeable going down the highway. What do you guys think