jigstick

Google “bloodrun tackle inline planar mods”

I moved the weight forward. I heated the bracket with a lighter and bent it upward slightly. Everything mentioned on the bloodrun article I did. I did these mods to both Offshore OR12s and Church Tackle TX22s, and Church Tackle Walleye Boards. None of them will run more than 20yds out laterally from the boat. My rod holders for these rods are mounted to my roof...as high as I can get them. Pulling 30-40 Jets, 5-7 color lead core, deep diving reef runners and tail dancers. Ill have 300ft of line out and all the boards do is get further behind the boat...and still only 20yds our laterally.

That’s what I was getting at. 5200 is no joke.

Ok. Once I get the boat out of storage they are yours. I have 4 offshore boards and 2 church boards. All have the compression clips on them. Not the pinch pads.

thats odd. its working for me google search Diver Wire Terminal Kit. or go to www.gltsupplies.com and look under accessories. it should be listed there.

https://cart.gltsupplies.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=29810 I throw one of these terminal kits on. Ive tried the wire knot, and I don't care what people may say, I don't trust it. Lost 3 setups trying that knot. This kit is the way to go. Any dipsy rod combo that Wes sells at the Slippery Sinker has this type of connection. I trust his judgement on it.

I thought you meant you were going to coat the heads of the screws with 5200. ie cover the flat head or philips head slots. That would be a mistake if you ask me. Coating the threads before screwing the fastener in is a different story. I never tried to back one out that was coated in 5200. I’d guess there would be a good chance of snapping the fastener. Then you’re in a real mess. On my fiberglass boat i overdrilled a pilot hole bigger than my fasteners. Then injected the hole with epoxy and let it set. Once the epoxy core set up nice and hard I drilled a pilot hole appropriatly sized for my screws into the cured epoxy. Then tightened the screws down.

I have found that playing music decreases bites. I think its the harmonics transferring into the water through the hull, down the rigger cables, and through the dipsy wire. Im being serious

Copenhagen.

Anybody ever try these? I snagged a drifting one last year out of Olcott. Never saw such a thing. http://www.yakimabait.com/products/big-als-4-fish-flash/

I did all of those mods last year on my Church and Offhore boards. None of it helped. Pulling deep diving cranks or jet divers on erie for walleye. The boards just don't plane out far enough. I wouldn't dare trying to run 2 boards per side. Im done jacking around with them. I got some Cisco reels and pulleys and some Auroralite boards on the way.

Im digging that fly storage box.

Autopilot

This is an interesting concept. Even a 8.5ft section of braid would allow the wire to get to the spool. I may look into this.

Ive got 5 years on my dipsy rods I purchased from the Slippery Sinker. The Okuma GLT with Twili Tip and Magda Pro reel. Still going strong. Each year I cut off maybe 10ft to get rid of the curly Qs, and put on a new crimp and swivel. No need to change the wire out unless you're feeling frays.

www.FishUSA.com in Erie is awesome. Great guys to deal with. Often times I will place an order online, then stop by their shop on my way up from Pittsburgh and pick it up. They have THE BEST selection of walleye stickbaits in the greater Erie area. Last year they started stocking a good selection of flashers, flys, spin doctors, and salmon related gear.

If you put 5200 on your screw heads god bless you if you ever decide to replace that board. That **** is no joke. Ive used it on my garboard drain and below the waterline petcocks. its permanent and is a **** to cut with a knife too.

I can't answer your question. But i can tell you when I use a Mitivac I can get the tube all the way down the dipstick until it bottoms out. I can suction out 4-4.5L of oil from my Mercruiser 4.3l V6. It takes a while, and sucks. But I only do it every other year. IMHO people change the oil on their engines way too much. We are sucking in much cleaner air out on the water than a car motor driving around town.

The trailer that came with my boat was in bad shape when I got it. I replaced all the brake lines, wheel cylinders, and bearing buddys. One bunk as well. It does the job but the fenders have significant rust despite sanding and repainting. I feel for the most part it is structurally sound, but I have this gut feeling that I can't get past. Id like to get a new one. My boat is a Bayliner 2252 Express Cruiser. Ill try and post some pictures. My question for you guys is this. When you purchase / order a new boat trailer, how do you know what bunk setup to go with? How do you inform the builder where you want the bunks? How far apart they need to be to miss any hull strakes? My current trailer has 4 bunks, and they are spaced so they just miss the strakes. Do you just purchase a trailer based on the weight of the boat? And have the dealer set up the bunks when you go to load the boat the first time? Doug

i use 15# flouro. most think I'm crazy, but I've never had a problem