jigstick

What’s the best way to go about setting the gap / tension on the clip? I used a feeler gauge 0.005. But I’m having trouble getting these tuned. Smaller walleye won’t snap the band / release from the clip and I end up tracing fish on the other hand when I pull deep diving cranks baits they false release.

Yeah it’s the low pressure return line. I thought about using a splicer. I have some extra hydraulic hose laying around. Just not sure what ID I need for that bib and splicer

Bob that’s exactly what I tried. I cut an inch off and resecured it. It’s not leaking by the bib anymore. Now it’s leaking where I clamped the hose to stop it from dripping while I made the repair. Unfortunately I clamped it up so high that if I cut the leaking area out the hose won’t reach the bib. Rookie mistake. the hose is only 10in long. Has a brass fitting one one side that screws into the actuator. And uses a hose clamp on the other. If I knew the size of the brass fitting it would help

THanks guys. My boat is stored in a climate controlled underground mine during the winter so i dont think its a freeze issue. The dye test identified the leak. The leak was coming from this hose connection. Im guessing the rubber deteriorated over time and lost its seal. I decided to try and remove that hose from the barb so that I could cut off an inch and reinstall it. I clamped the hose with some vice grips covered in duct tape. Cut off an inch, and reintstalled and tightened down the hose clamp. Which fixed the leak. BUT of course now there is a hair line crack in the hose where I clamped it. Where can I buy a replacement hose? The one with the red arrow pointing at it.

Go Garmin and never look back. For your AP and chartplotter

I have a merc V6 with alpha outdrive. Picked up the boat from storage today And checked the fluids. My power steering reservoir is almost empty. I checked all the hoses and fittings and didn’t notice any obvious leaks. I reached under the intercooler and got some oil on my fingers. But I also noticed some oil on the bottoms side of the power assist cylinder as well. Right by where it butts up to the mounting bracket. any ideas? I have some UV dye I was going to dump into the power steering reservoir to look for leaks. I think I may have a bad seal on the power assist unit but I’m confused as to why I found fluid higher up by the intercooler.

click the link in the above response. All of the part numbers are listed in my list on the first page.

Vetting search my thread history. I have a big thread on here from I switched from power assisted cable steering Raymarine EV Sportpilot to hydraulic steering and hydraulic autopilot. you’ll need a SeaStar hydraulic helm. A Raymarine Autopilot hydraulic pump. A SeaStar hydraulic steering cylinder. Two hydraulic steering hoses. And one vent hose. 2qts of SeaStar Hydraulic steering fluid. And potentially some misc hydraulic T, 45*, 90* fittings here is a link to my install thread I think I post the part numbers that you would need

It cost me about $1000 to install my hydraulic steering myself. Compared to the price of an Octopus drive and +\- non feedback cable helm the price isn’t that much different. There is no doubt that hydraulic autopilot is better than cable systems. I just finished installing a Garmin Smart Pump autopilot on my brother in laws boat. Awesome system. Better than my raymarine.

Yeah I have a Merc V6 IO with alpha outdrive. Power assisted cable steering from factory. I pulled the helm and cable steering. Installed a sea star helm. And a seastar hydraulic cylinder onto the power assist. Right where the cable used to go. Ran some hydraulic lines and called it a day Hard to see in the pic. I have a whole thread on here about the install.

Disc brakes?

I went the Raymarine Sportpilot / Octopus route on my boat for 2-3yrs. It worked “ok”. Ended up switching to hydraulic steering and hydraulic autopilot last year and it’s worlds better

Are you still making weights?

what is the dry weight of the boat?

4.5in from center of mount to bottom of rod holder.