jigstick

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Sorry guys. Been away from the computer. No we never got it working. Tried everything under the sun in regards to settings. Tried new and different transducers. Updated the software. Nothing worked.

Would like to sell 6 of these Smith adjustable stainless rod holders. Make an offer. In good condition. have plastic liners and drain holes.

Selling 4 Cannon Dual Axis Rod Holders. In excellent condition. Come with track bases. Asking $75/piece also have two grab rail mounts for $15/piece

for jigging you may benefit from down imaging and chirp sonar. you get much better detail and target separation with chirp. the depth you plan on jigging will determine the band of chirp you want. high band chirp is going to give you the most detail, but is best for shallow water. Mid band chirp will give less detail and target separation, but is better for deeper water. Low band chirp is for "very deep" water....800-1200ft etc. what depths do you plan on fishing?

Multi Function Display

the problem is most box stores near the great lakes are selling these MFD's bundled with transducers more geared towards the bass / jig fishermen. Ive found very few bundles which include a transducer better suited to open water trolling....ie large cone angles and frequency ranges appropriate for 30-600fow. Its a real shame. Because there's a lot of people who buy these bundles and have to eat the costs of the included transducer and still have to buy a transducer better suited for what we do. The saltwater guys don't have to deal with this because most of them are buying high dollar displays and piecing the system together a la carte. My advice for guys looking for new electronics is to buy units with at least 500watts output to the transducer. More power even better. And pair it with a transducer which can handle the output your MFD puts out. Chose a frequency range suited for the depths you typically fish. 50/200, 77/200, 83/200....or a chirp transducer that covers these ranges. SOME, not all, mid band chirp transducers do a very good job covering these ranges while also allowing you to run it in traditional mode ie one frequency....if you're MFD supports that ability

The octopus helm units are pretty straight forward if you have the space behind your dash for it. The trick to them is if you have “feedback” or “no feedback” cable steering. Their remote mechical drive is also nice. Installation can be a PITA if your motor sits deep in a hole.

The marine division of mansfield plumbing got sold out to Sea Land Technology back in the early 1980s I believe. Sealand did make marine heads model 751 and 752 for a short period of time but stopped making them in the early 90s. Im not sure if that helps at all. It may be time to get a new head unfortunately. or go without the deodorizer. The housing doesn't look too complex. Its possible you could fabricate one out of PVC pipe and the appropriate fittings. it may be something to look into.

So I was able to back up my data onto an SD card. I tried everything mentioned in this thread. None of that was able to get the sonar to read from a "valid" source. My GPS still says Global My temp says Local and reads a temp, which I don't believe is accurate my sonar reads local but as "invalid" I tried a hard reset and even that hasn't fixed the problem. The sonar still reads --- for depth but artifact / noise does scroll across the screen. Im going to try another hard reset tomorrow and then put on a new transducer and see what happens. But if that doesn't work I'm going to smash this thing with a dig bar and switch to something that ****ing works. Probably Garmin.

Is this hazard still causing problems? Word is the fishing is hot 160-225fow. Right where this thing is

For cable steering yes the Octopus helm drive is your best bet. I believe it requires 10-12in of clearance behind the dash. Your steering cable runs through a collar on it and the octopus motors pushes and pulls the cable for you. It looks similar to what you have. It should wire up to whatever course computer you have. Simrad made a similiar helm unit unit as well. Not sure if they still do.

I think I’m going to switch to a mid band chirp transducer. 80-160khz at 600 watts. That’s 2x the power output of my current transducer. And a much better frequency range. Plus I can run it on traditional sonar at 80khz or 160khz if I don’t want chirp. Should be a big upgrade.

That’s what I’m getting at. Chirp cone angles are 25-26* max with low and mid frequency ranges. 50ft down that’s only covering an 18ft diameter area. My trolling spread including the copper rods off the planers is well past 150ft wide behind the boat. Traditional sonar at 50 or 77hz can have a cone angle of 45 degrees. More than double that of a chirp transducer. As trollers I am starting to believe that covering more water with sonar is the better route unfortunately Airmar doesn’t make a dual channel transducer offering mid band chirp and 50/77khz on the other side. The only combo transducers pair the chirp side with either DI or SS sonar.