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Everything posted by jigstick
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Liquid wash and wax/ plastic window cleaners
jigstick replied to Gotta Bite's topic in This Old Boat
For your plastic windows, use Plexus Spray and a microfiber towel. For cleaning the boat, I use "On and Off". Its caustic, so keep it away from rubrail and aluminum. After that, i use a variable speed buffer with 3M Finesse It 2 followed by some Collinte Fleet paste wax. That should have you looking sharp the entire season. -
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Simrad NSS7 EVO 2. Really good bang for the buck. Pair it with a good transducer and don't look back.
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you can certainly turn your switch between your batteries with the motor running. If you couldn't, then there wouldn't be a point of having one. I start my engine with my cranking battery, and once the engine is running, i switch over to my deep cycle. Depending on how your electrical system is wired, you CAN ground out your batteries / alternator if you turn the switch to OFF with the engine running. I have heard of damage happening if you do that. Never turn your switch to OFF with the engine ON.
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If your alternator output is good, then the next thing I would check is the power wire feeding your main fuse panel, and the fuse panel itself. Fuse panels are typically rated for so many amps. If you have added a lot of electronics to the fuse panel, the fuse panel may be approaching max capacity. Furthermore, the wire feeding the fuse panel may not be thick enough to carry enough amps to the fuse panel. You may be able to just add thicker wire running to the fuse panel to carry the juice…id recommend 4 gauge.
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Could be an alternator problem. It sounds like your alternator isn't putting out enough juice to power all your stuff. Can you test the output of your alternator with the motor running with a volt meter and report back?
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Its hard to see in the picture. But at the base of my steering wheel is a hockey puck sized housing that contains my non-feedback gears. That housing is only 1/4in from the bottom of the dash. Then, as you can see, the dash stops. The closest fiberglass is recessed back about 3-4inches. Once the drive unit is mounted in place, my guess is, its going to be 6-8inches of swing for the bracket to reach back to the fiberglass. Do you think it will reach, or do you think I am going to have to fabricate some type of support bracket?
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Are your batteries new? Do you keep them on a charger when you are not using the boat? Could it be that your #1 battery is getting old, and doesn't hold a charge long. So you get a good reading when you test it after it comes off of a trickle charger, but after a while of using that battery when your switch is on battery 2, that battery 1 dies off and you lose power? Where is your fish finder power wire connected to? When you say you lost "all" electronics, are you talking just your fish finder and radio? Or like your bilge pumps, blower, power steering, dash lights, running lights, etc?
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FWIW, #5 Cowbells really throw out some drag. I dont like them. #4 is the biggest I go. I dont really think the lakers care weather its a #5 or #4.
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It all depends on how you have your switch wired, and where you have your electronics pulling juice from. For example...here is how mine is wired, which is a very common setup: Position 1: Cranking Battery Position 2: Deep Cycle House battery Both: Common: 4gauge Power wire feeding fuse panel, Wire from alternator / starter Off: Bilge Pumps directly wired to the deep cycle All electronics are wired to the fuse panel fed off of the "COMMON" on the Perko Switch When you do it this way, your electronics will always be pulling power from the alternator while the boat motor is on, and if the motor is off, it will pull from whatever battery you have selected (which should be your deep cycle). It sounds to be like some of your electronics are either hard wired directly to a battery, or are feeding off of a fuse panel tied directly to a battery. This will cause you to lose some electronics when that battery dies while not being selected. And depending on how your switch is wired, your batteries may only be charging with the switch in a particular position. There is no way to answer that question without knowing more about how your setup is wired. Does all this make sense? Describe how you have it wired up and I can help more.
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I like the vertical spools on the Cannons. My buddy had Scottys, and on more than one occasion the wire on their horizontal spools slipped and got tangled up in the mount. What a pain in the ass. I find the vertical spools on the Cannons to be more sturdy, efficient, and robust. Better angles. Less stress on the mounts.
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Im pumped. Im waiting for Vetting to chime in on his once he gets his boat in the water. If he can duplicate your results then I will be 100% convinced that this Sportpilot can handle walleye trolling. Ive redone all of my electrical system, and started a Raymarine Seatalk backbone with my A60 Plotter in anticipation of installing this Sportpilot. I have high hopes now.
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Bro you're awesome. Those are the cowbells I have been looking for. Now well see if I can get the Michigan Rig to produce like the Hammerhead cowbells. Thanks for the link.
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I used to get my cowbell setups at the Buffalo outdoor show. Some guy had a booth there. But he wasn't present this time. His were great. Had 3 blades of equal size. I only have one of his left. So I recently have been using the Luhr Jensen cowbell setups….which I don't really care for. They have 4 blades, with the leading blade being much bigger than the other three. Do you have a source for some good cowbells?
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I always apply K9 Advantage to my line when fishing Ontario. It really keeps the flees away
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okuma classic pro glts
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dude….its time to update
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lampreys suck