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jigstick

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  1. jigstick
    Here is a typical cowbell and peanut setup: http://www.basspro.com/Luhr-Jensen-Cowbell-Troll/product/77823/ I usually take off one cowbell, and only run 3. Tie a treble hook onto 24inches of 20lb flouro leader. Thread on 3 beads. Then thread on your peanut or wobble glow. THEN tie that entire rig onto the end of the 3rd cowbell. Run it 20ft back off the ball. I typically bounce the ball right on the bottom of erie. Speed around 2mph. Get it down there and hang on! You can get all different shapes and colors of blades and peanuts. Usually the sherbert, pinks, chartreuse, greens, and purples work for me.
  2. jigstick
    cowbells and peanut setups absolutely slaughter lakers on lake erie. I can barely keep them in the water. Really is quite amazing. For every 1 laker i catch on a spoon, i catch 5 on a peanut fly.
  3. jigstick
    For the wires being different colors…i have heard this about the new units. I believe when you hook them up, if you have them reversed…pushing right on the control head will make the drive unit go left, and vice versa. So you just switch the wires the other way. does that make sense? It has to do with the polarity.
  4. jigstick
    First off I would switch one of your batteries to a deep cycle. Ideally you want one cranking battery to turn over your engine, and then a deep cycle to wire all of your electronics too. The best setup is having these two types of batteries joined with a Perko 1-2-Both-Off Switch. Then run a 4 gauge red Positive wire from the "common" post on your Perko Switch to a fuse block made my BlueSea systems. Run a 4 gauge black Negative wire from a ground post on one of your battery up to the fuse block. Mount this fuse block where it won't get wet. I personally would mount it by your helm, or inside your center console. Then run the wires from your new awesome electronic down riggers up to your new fuse block. Install appropriate sized fuses to protect those bad boys, and you are up and running with a very professional, safe, and expandable electrical system. This is how I have my boat wired. All of my aftermarket electronics run off of a Bluesea Systems fuse block that I mounted behind my dash. No garbled wires hanging off of the batteries. Everything is fuse protected, organized, and powered with short runs.
  5. jigstick
    Any update on getting it to work for trolling?
  6. jigstick
    How? I've never done it. Are their drains on both sides of the block? And in the manifolds?
  7. jigstick
    I can't put it off unfortunately. Schedule dictates it comes out tomorrow. I have a temp probe I can hang in the engine compartment to keep an eye on the air temp in there. I thought about throwing some blankets in the dryer, throwing them over the engine, and then throwing my arctic sleeping bag over the whole deal. Probably won't make a difference but who knows. My last resort was going to be running the engine off the garden hose to get its temp up, and pray that the block stays warm over night. Am I wrong to try this crap?
  8. jigstick
    Im pulling my boat out of climate controlled storage tomorrow because it is the only day I can do it before memorial day. I keep my boat by Dunkirk NY, and Saturday and Sunday low temps are 32*. Highs in the 50's. How concerned do I need to be about any block damage from freezing water? My motor is not winterized because I keep it in climate control.
  9. jigstick
    Correct. The Fishhawk system uses a transducer to transmit data, not a coated rigger cable. If you lose a Fishhawk probe, its because something very very bad happened to our normal wire downrigger cable.
  10. jigstick
    collinite fleet wax
  11. jigstick
    I don't know anything about tuning them. I just know that the main thing impacting VHF range is antenna height. Go with an 8ft whip, and mount it as high as you can. Both Shakespeare and Digital are making very good antennas at the moment, and are plenty good for great lakes applications. The biggest **** of setting up a new radio / antenna is the soldering of the plug onto the antenna cable. People swear that a quality solder job is the only way to get good performance. However, I have been using the new crimp on connectors and see no loss of performance. Now most GL guys have their radios enclosed in some way, so maybe thats why the crimp connector has been working. If you were installing this on a center console and running it 60 miles out in the gulf stream, and getting your radio wet all the time, I can see wanting a soldered connection. But we aint doin that…. Be sure to register your radio / boat DSC so that you are in the system in case of distress calls.
  12. jigstick
    I think good cable inspection is the key here. Ive never had my rigger cable twist / knot / kink yet. Not sure how I could even make it happen. As long as you are using cable that is in good shape you should not be losing probes. Make sure your cable terminals are done correctly. The only way I see MYSELF losing a probe is if Im not paying attention when bouncing a ball on the bottom for lakers…But I tend NOT to use my probe rigger for that duty. I only bounce the rigger which doesn't have the probe on it.
  13. jigstick
    Can you compression test the motor? Maybe your mechanic buddy can. I would also look at the stringers and transom for water intrusion in a boat that age.
  14. jigstick
    So I don't need to do anything to my UV spoons? And would hitting my glow spoons with my surefire duty light be good enough? Or should I get a flasher
  15. jigstick
    You could make a new dash out of fresh marine plywood. Coat the whole thing in resin and fiber glass, front and back. So that it is real solid. Would be plenty sturdy for a steering shaft.
  16. jigstick
    I have a very similar boat. A Bayliner Express Cruiser 2252 hardtop with Merc I/O. Your news is disappointing. I had high hopes of being able to troll with the new EVO200 Sportpilot. Let me know if you are able to tweek it's performance for trolling applications.
  17. jigstick
    The reason I am looking for an alternative to the cowbells is because they put a tremendous amount of drag out. I want to feel more of the fish....and less of the cowbells.
  18. jigstick
    Personally, what I would do is remove your current dash and use it as a mold. Slather it with a releasing agent, then coat it with a few layers of fiberglass. Sand it smooth, and cover with gelcoat. Wet sand that. Then install your new fiberglass dash. Shouldnt cost too much, and it will hold up a lot better.
  19. jigstick
    Do they work? At least as well as cowbell + peanut setups? I cant keep my cowbells in the water. They get slammed almost instantly when they hit the bottom.
  20. jigstick
    Carp is best baked on a cedar plank. Bake on 350 for 25min. Then remove from oven, throw carp in the garbage can, and eat the plank.
  21. jigstick
    Whats the best way? A buddy of mine swears by using a camera flash to charge his spoons. I just leave mine out in the sun for a bit. Is there one way that is better than others?
  22. jigstick
    Wash the entire boat with "On and Off". Then buff the boat using 3M Finesse It 2 and a variable speed buffer. After that, wax the boat with Collinite Fleet Wax. Should look awesome. Be careful using the On and Off around aluminum trailers....it will eat it up.
  23. jigstick
    How well did it hold track? How slow where you going, and how big of waves? Im looking at using a Sportpilot on my IO this year, but I need it to hold course when trolling at walleye speeds....like 1.5mph in 3ft waves
  24. jigstick
    I bet that would work well on a meatus too
  25. jigstick
    exactly what part of the dash is coming apart? Is it possible to replace the dash with a piece of Starboard or something? As far as epoxy, I would use MarineTex.
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