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Everything posted by jigstick
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My buddy put a trolling plate on his 150 Yamaha. He can get down to 1.5mph
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My buddy trolls with a 150 Yamaha 4 stroke on his 20ft Alumacraft. it hauls ass 40mph plus, great on gas, quiet as hell, and doesn't smell like a 2 stroke. Its awesome.
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Ive always wondered why we don't see more large center consoles or walkarounds on the great lakes. A 32ft center console or walk around with twin 250hp 4 Strokes would eat the great lakes alive, plow through 4-6fters, go 40mph through wicked chop, be economical, etc. When its time for me to upgrade and run with the big dogs thats the route I plan on taking. Look at Vince's new boat...i think he feels the same way
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fancy
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Bilge pumps are rarely at the lowest point in the bilge because it would be a huge headache to install it there and change it out if needed. My bilge will hold water and not necessarily trip the pump until a significant amount of water gets in there. I have a self bailing deck with deck scuppers. Ive gone out on dry days and not washed my deck down, gotten back to the harbor, pulled my drain plug, and had nothing come out. Ive also gone out on sunny days and washed my deck down with 15-20 gallons of water throughout the day, having most of the water leave via the scuppers. But when pulling the plug at the launch would have some water come out. Are you getting your deck wet? Are you taking waves or a lot of spray? water will find its way down to the bilge. Maybe its that.
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My inline boards all have the compression front clip. I have them set pretty tight, so I'm fairly certain the line isn't slipping through there. But I have never tried wrapping the line around it + clamping it down. My rods are higher than the roof on my boat....placed in rod holders on my roof supports. The rods point extremely vertical, and towards the stern of the boat. Maybe if I had them point lateral....the boards would plain more? I don't know what Im doing wrong.
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a Perko does the same thing
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when Im running the lead core I'm just pulling Renosky or Bomber stick baits. and even with that the inlines don't pull far away from the boat. 20ft at best. Theres no way in hell I could run two inlines off one side. I must be doing something wrong. Because i see Youtube videos of guys running 3-4 boards per side. WTF I ordered some Cisco planer reels and Auroralite boards but won't have them for 2-3 weeks. So in the meantime I would like to get these Inlines working
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Finished my installation yesterday. Works like a charm. Recomissioned the autopilot and it is SOOOO much nicer. Bleeding all the hydraulic lines, steering cylinder, and autopilot pump took about 30min. Ill post some pictures the next time I'm at the boat. This really wasn't a hard project. The only reason it took so long is that I had to deal with those scupper drains. Definitely a DIY project if you have even average mechanical skills.
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I installed mine with a Perko switch. Both batteries charge with no problems. Not sure what an ACR is? I hardly ever use my shore power. But I switch my Perko to the starting battery to get up and running. Let it charge while I motor out to the grounds. Switch to my deep cycle while trolling to charge that one. Then flip it to "both" on the way in. Never had a problem. what does the ACR do?
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I ended up buying an "add a helm" fitting kit from Seastar, which had all of the fittings I needed. It was cheaper than ordering misc parts from Grainger and my local hydraulic shop. Thanks guys.
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I haven't had the best luck with Church or Offshore planer boards. I do catch plenty of walleye with them, but I haven't been happy with how far they plane out from the boat. Ive been using the Church TX22 and the Offshore OR12s. Ive tried the modifications from the BloodRun website without any improvement. Should I be using the Church TX44s? Or the Offshore OR37s? Im only pulling 5 and 7 color lead core, or some Rapala and Reefrunner deep diving cranks.
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I got the helm installed Had to drill a hole under the steering column leading into my bathroom. The autopilot pump got mounted to the wall in there about 3in below the helm. I got my scupper drains rerouted. What a headache. The picture is deceiving, but both drains have sufficient fall and drained a 5gal bucket of water rapidly. The picture is before I permanently installed with 3M 4200 and stainless hose clamps. The hoses are "dry fitted" to the new cylinder at the moment. Im just waiting for two 2ft hoses to connect my autopilot pump to the helm. Then I'm ready to bleed. What should I use for pipe sealant on the hydraulic fittings? Loktite 542? I use teflon tape on my race car calipers with no problems, but the Seastar manual specifically says not to use teflon tape on the NPT fittings.
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Had to change the layout of my plumbing a bit. Ive decided to "tee" off the helm instead of inline back by the bilge area. Im going to mount the autopilot pump in my head, which is directly behind the helm in the cuddy. Ill have to drill a 2in hole through the wall separating the head from the back of the steering console, but that will give me a straight shot to the Tee fittings on the back of the helm. I have to order some 2-3ft hoses to connect to the pump to the back of the helm now. But i already have the 16ft hoses to run from the helm to the steering ram. This weekend I plan on getting the new helm installed in the dash, fishing my 16ft hydraulic hoses, mounting the autopilot pump to the wall in the head, fixing my blower hose, and running my scupper drain pipes. Im finally putting everything back together. Hopefully all of the headaches are past me.
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If you have hydraulic steering the skies the limit. And I personally would go with a Garmin unit and Garmin Smart Pump. I personally have a Raymarine EV200 and a Type 1 hydraulic pump.
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With that price point look at the Simrad units. But honestly my Garmin 9xx series display/sonar/gps captures beautiful marks on Lake O. Even in 600FOW. The trick is using your unit properly. Adjusting the power, gain, frequencies, etc depending on what your looking for and in what part of the water column.
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Thats funny. My Garmin transducer can do 50/200, as well as CHIRP. Best transducer I’ve had. Better than my Airmar by a long shot
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I think it depends more on the model of transducer you’re using. Good thru Hull transducers can be $1000-2000. Comparing that to a transom Garmin GT51 would be night and day difference. My thought is if your going to put in a thru Hull then put in a badass one
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I don’t know the answer to your question. However I need to replace the bellows on my shift cable only. The rest are fine. Is it possible to do it with the outdrive hard over? I know I have to pull the shift cable through
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The hose fittings are what I consider female. Threaded on the inside. But there’s a “tit” in there as well. They screw onto 3/8 female Tees that I originally purchased. But I’ve decided to tee right off the autopilot pump instead. So now I need a Tee that has 1/4Npt male on the bottom to screw into the autopilot pump. Finding these fittings is driving me nuts.
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Im using Seastar hydraulic lines with pre attached fittings. Which are 3/8 female hose fittings I believe? i need two Tees. With 1/4npt male on the bottom and 3/8 hose on the sides. And i I need a 90 degree elbow 3/8 hose to 1/4in male npt. The autopilot pump pump is a Raymarine Type 1 pump which has three adapter fittings that go to 1/4 NPT female
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I need some tee fittings and elbows to hook up my new hydraulic steering hoses to my auto pilot pump. Do places like lowes or true value sell stuff like that? i need 1/4 NPT male - 3/8 hose - 3/8 hose tee fittings, and a 1/4npt male female elbow