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Posts
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Everything posted by Prof T
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DIY Inline planer tattle flag w/ pics
Prof T replied to greenboatluke's topic in Tackle and Techniques
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Navionics+ card on Humminbird Units
Prof T replied to goin hungry's topic in Finger Lakes Discussion
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Decided on a Lowrance HDS 7 Gen 2 Touch. I've got a couple older mapping cards, but none of them upgradable. For eastern lake o, st Lawrence and some inland lakes, which chip?
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Mine doesn't start bad but they are known to have weak float needles and want to flood a little while at rest. Especially noticeable if the motor is trimmed all the way down. If I remember to trim it up somewhat when I shut it down, she'll start just fine on the re-start. It's a VRO 2, but I've gone to mixing my own @ 50:1 as I troll on a kicker. If I forget and leave it trimmed down, she'll throw a beautiful blue cloud on the re-start. Two stroke heaven--but I feel comfortable that she's well lubed. I think it has a lot to do with why I'm still able to run a 30 year old motor. Did the compression test to see if it was worth a carb re-build. Think I will.
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Ran a compression check on my 1985 well used 90 evinrude. 92-95 lbs on all 4 cylinders w/ engine warm, all plugs out and throttle closed. Now I read I should have had that open, but bottom line is even though they are lower than I'd like, they are even (critical for a smooth running engine). This motor has never let me down, has a negligible resale or trade value, but still does the job. I can't find a reasonable newer used motor and hesitate to put a new motor on a 30 year old boat. So here's my question.....what compression is considered too low? This motor still starts easily and powers to boat as it should.
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Tough day at Mexico
Prof T replied to Kevin J Legg's topic in New York Fishing Reports - Lake Ontario (South Shore)
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Got mine set up the same way as well. Difference is my transom is flat all the way and my kicker is a long shaft. Connected by the simple front mount rod with tie rod type ends. Ball ends are on the motors, the rod has spring loaded cups for easy removal. Think west marine sells them now, maybe attwood as well. I DO take it off when I'm running on the big motor with the kicker tilted. Easy to do as it sits in front. Has worked perfectly.
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I've got a 19 Sea Nymph w/ 90 Evinrude 2stroke. Won't get close to that slow. Bags helped, kicker better.
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Sure looks ominous! Do you have a rack and pinion type at the helm? If so, there has to be enough room in the arch of the channel in the rear corner of the boat to pull things forward. On mine, I cranked it all the way counter clockwise to retract the steering rod as far as possible back into the cable housing. Then I disconnected the steering arm to the motor and the connecting nut to the tilt tube. Then I disconnected the rack from the helm after being sure nothing was left cable tied to it, Here's where a second set of hands comes in. One guy pulling the rack end toward the front while the other helps things get going through the rear grommet. Don't forget the rope to guide the new one back. All well and good if there is a straight shot from the tilt tube to the opening. Just re-looked at your photos and it sure looks like there is enough of an offset to bind it up. Worth a shot though because you will have to pull the old one out anyway.
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I've done it on two boats and got lucky both times in that I could pull the old cable towards the helm without needing to remove the engine. Pulling a rope along with it aids in routing the new cable back to the engine, much like an electrician would pull wires. If you are just replacing mechanical push/pull type, be very careful on your measurements. Too short won't work, and it is hard to position excess slack if you are too long!
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I've read through most of the previous threads on new gps combo units and, rather than hijack the sonar threads, I decided to start new. Many units allow you to update/create detailed 1 foot contour maps wherever you happen to fish. Some you have to download to a card and send in, some allow you to save right on the depthfinder, but are limited to 8 hours. My present unit, Lowrance elite 5 (non DI), won't recognize a Navionics platinum card so I'm stuck with 6 ft contours. I've got a 15 dollar Navionics app on my droid phone that gives me sonar maps that are 1 ft contour. That is a whole different world down there. I want to do my own logging and create my own maps for specific areas I fish, but still will use an updated map card scout new areas. A lot of this is new this season. Does anyone see something that stands out? Been to Bsss Pro and West Marine to see and touch, but haven't nailed it down yet. Past units owned: Mach 1 - still have it on the shelf..loved the smell Humminbird 4 ID -still on the boat, use for surface trolling speed Lowrance LCX Black and White ...has my best waypoints Lowrance elite 5 --nice little unit, will probably be moved to other boat. ​
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Thinking about a new fish finder, any info
Prof T replied to hookedupf7's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
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Thinking about a new fish finder, any info
Prof T replied to hookedupf7's topic in Questions About Trout & Salmon Trolling?
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Did my sea nymph 5 years ago. West system epoxy on both faces of plywood, 2 coats on edges. Has held up perfectly. Wish I had not replaced the carpet though. Looks good,but a vinyl or rhino floor is better to clean and deal with fish on, in my opinion. My covers aren't great and the carpet is wet most of the time.
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Justin, I created an Insight Genesis free acct (Lowrance). If you fumble around and go to their social map, you can see many of the lakes that have already been scanned. If you look at Seneca you'll see 15 ft contour lines. Look at Honeoye they are 1 foot. Look at Cayuga and it's only partially coved...looks like one trip out. Owasco has 3 ft contours whole lake. I can find many of the Indian River lakes done to varying degrees, but nothing on the St. Lawrence or Lake O. I sure would like to hear from someone who is using this stuff as well. Gene
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I'm trying to decide on a new depthfinder with the ability to create charts. Before I start the whole what brand do you like, my decision with be made based on the ease of updating charts. My older Lowrance GPS units are running Navionics Hot Spots maps. Then I installed Navionics on my phone....can't believe the detail. Want it in my boat for this season. I'm a SLR guy and the variety of structure is astounding. New units allow the user to scan their own area and somehow update their map card so that the data is 100% spot on. I've watched all of the tutorials and think any of them offer what I'd like to see. Here's where I am: If I go with Lowrance I think, their "Insight" requires you to submit your data to them, wait for them to update the map, and then you download it back to the unit . Humminbird gives you 8 hours of real data right on the unit, or you can update your map chip yourself right on your computer with their software. I've got a few Navionics charts on SD and Micro SD. They offer updates for a reasonable rate which are supposed to include the latest uploaded data from users. Not sure about new Lowrance software though. Complicating all of this is that with the bird I could I-link to my I-pilot trolling motor and have it follow a given depth contour!!! Imagine: I'm a guy who trolls. I use my kicker motor for thrust. I add enough propulsion from my bow mount Minn Kota to steer. I could then say follow the 24 ft contour and all I've got to do is fish!!! Problem, of course, is price. The new head for the I-pilot to get the I-link functionality is $800 bucks alone, let alone the need for the depthfinder. So back to my question. Anyone have experience with the mapping stuff?
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Can a zinc anode be added to an older outboard?
Prof T replied to Todd in NY's topic in This Old Boat
If you are running in fresh water only, you might want to consider switching over to magnesium anodes instead of the zinc. They won't last as long, but I think that's what you want. My boats, a 26 Wellcraft IO and a 19 Sea Nymph outboard sit at an iron pipe dock for about 5 months a season. I got concerned because I saw very little disintegration of the anodes. In fact, neither had ever needed replacing. A buddy who had some issues with his outdrives did some research and found that magnesium was a better sacrificial material. I switched out the Wellcraft last season and now see a lot of pocking in the anode, reassuring me they are reacting to something. I plan to do the outboard this year. Here's a source: boatzincs.com