geezer

Gee...thanks for the wise guy come back. Do you know me or my circumstances? Did you watch three retirement plans go down the toilet? Can you live on social security ? Do you know how many/few kids I have access to, where my grand kids live in relation to where I live? You assume much and have no basis for doing so. This is the first time I have been really let down on this site. If you got nothin good to say...shut your pie hole.

Got a good deal on 2 penn 800 fathom master 4' electric down riggers. Got the stationary mounts, but since I will be fishing mostly alone I think I will need to be able to move booms quickly when landing fish. The swivels I've seen on eBay are big bucks. Anybody got a pair to sell reasonably or an idea on how to make/adapt something else?

I know this is not recommended but I used regular Home Depot treated 1 X 6 1 inch thick planks ship lapped and covered any aluminum with double layer gorilla tape, installed with stainless steel screws. Certainly an uncommon process but since I am a genuine geezer I'm sure the floor floor will outlive me, and probably the next owner. This should generate a few responses.

It is so great to have access to this fountain of knowledge. I sincerely thank you all. God bless all. May the biggest fish bite your lures.

Thanks for that info. Would I be pressing straight down or also front to back. I should be looking for no movement in any direction?

Considering buying a 1985 Starcraft 18' islander. Quite a distance from my home. When I go look how should I inspect the transom. Maybe just pushing something on the wood to feel for sponginess? Is it more likely to rot closest to where the drive goes thru? I don't know now how accessible that area will be.

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to wait until I know for sure what really is wrong with my engine. Don't want to chance another waste of money, also considering a good deal on a different boat having an outboard.

I need to replace my cracked block 120. Guy has a 130 out of his boat, says it's good. Been there before, can't hardly trust anyone any more. Every one says engine has to run/hot to get accurate compression test results. Are cold engine compression tests by turning by hand a waste of time? Could I turn engine over with plugs out with starter to get results worth anything? Any special things I should be looking at?

My 120 has significant water in the oil, so I believe the crack to be internal and unrepairable. I think I need another engine, would like to find one that runs so as to avoid expensive rebuild cost. Buying a cheap boat would be a good option but not at $1,500.00. Thanks for responses.

Thanks. I don't know who/ where l&m hank is?

Anyone got a good used or rebuilt 2.5 liter 120 hp mercruiser engine for my early 70's Starcraft?

Found out I've got a cracked block. 2.5 liter 120hp mid seventies mercruiser in an 18' Starcraft. Want to know if later 3.0 liter 130/140hp engines have the same dimensions so as be a direct easy fit. If so it would make many more used engines as prospective swaps vs just looking at 120s. I'm sorta close to OO, anyone know who might have a fair priced engine? Also need to know if my out drive would fit any engine. It must be an early one, does not say 'alpha' on it. Boat is a '73, engine allegedly a few years newer. Thanks for any advice.

Seems like some advice I've seen on this site say to troll against the current. If so what I do after making my slow S turns for long enough to head back towards home base? Add a little speed with the current? Or does it not really not make much difference?

Great idea. I hadn't thought about that spray stuff....Just the other day I saw a tv ad for it...I think they make it in a clear formula now besides white and black....I like that idea. I have pressure washed the inside hull, will use acetone to further clean and then spray (unless someone else has a better idea). once again...I love this site. thanks so much for sharing your thoughts.

Thanks. My intended use is for covering all rivets on the inside bottom of the hull. flooring and flotation has been planned, just looking for leak insurance on the rivits. is it dumb to think roofing tar would work and last?

replacing floor and flotation in my 18' aluminum starcraft. not aware of any leaking but it is an old boat. Cant get/keep my garage warm enough/long enough to properly cure gluvit, and don't want to wait weeks for it to maybe/maybe not perform its desired purpose. Can any one suggest alternative products? Read somewhere about something bought from cabelas but cant find such an item on line. Thanks in advance, love this site.

On my little 120 I/o been having similar issues. Was your carb rebuild mostly a clean up and replacement parts or was it a full blown in the tank/sonic cleaning. My carb had to have passages cleaned with some kind of skinny things pushed through the passages, some kind of little ball thing was frozen in place. Probably not giving a mechanic's explanation but what I learned is that not all carb rebuilds are the same.

Thanks guys, very helpful. Next question is what kind of wire. I found several different kinds of woven wire, some I couldn't tell if solid or woven, and what lb rating? I was thinking 40lb?

Just curios: why is it that when I post at 7:40 pm my post indicates that I posted at 12:40 am?

I'm wanting to set up 2 rods with wire for dipsys, on a budget so thought maybe a couple used/ebay penn reels. Presently using #309s on my rods but don't think they'll hold enough wire, on this site 1000 feet plus backer is suggested. So many models on ebay and hard to find specs. anybody got suggestions on which models to look for keeping budget in mind?. Thanks to so many who have helped me on this site. Also: is it possible to modify plain dipsy rods (tips) to accommodate wire?

great idea.

so.....10' up? and even with or further out than bottom spoon?