Tyee II

And if you were to get an outboard pilot, it comes with the point 1 you need for your radar overlay. Nevermind...I see your response now...

Thank you, Tall Tails. I see they have the p75 at BOE, but I don't see the p95. Looks like the only difference between them is a higher 600 watts on the 75 than the 300 watts on 95. Has anybody used the p75 with a Lowrance HDS and if so how do you like it's performance?

Thanks Shawn. I guess I should have gotten one while I had a chance? The number was actually P95C-M-BL. I can still find them for other brands, or bare wire, but not many places that sell them.

All I have seen there is non chirp in hull ducers. Usually if they are out of stock at Hodges they still show the item with a date showing when they expect delivery.

I am searching for a P95 or P75 in hull transducer with the blue Navico connector for Lowrance. I know I saw them online a couple months ago, but now they seem to be gone. The number was P95c-mb, I believe. Any ideas where to purchase these, or is there a way to adapt a bare wire ducer?

Thanks Wallyandre

I got an email from West Marine today about this. It is all branches and they will even refund you later if you find a price drop.

So the ri-10 is for MARPA only? I agree that a point 1 should be all you need for overlay but my buddy thinks he needs the interface for overlay as well as the heading sensor.

If you install the stainless pins, you can clip the line under the pin, then flip the board a few times before you clip your line into your release. It will never slip with 30 or 50# braid. With the plastic pin, the braid can dig into the pin if you do this. I have had 30# power pro slip in the OR-18 releases but usually with 50# you can stop this by tightening the release. It does make it harder to release the OR-18 when you tighten it though. 30# should be fine up to your future 10 color, I would say.

Is this new transducer technology?

You will need a slightly heavier rod for the 44, which I don't typically use for Browns. You will really appreciate those boards later in the year when you want to pull heavy lines in big waves. The walleye boards do fine in chop up to 300cu if you set your weights forward on them.

If you want to use them for walleye and Browns, consider using heavier braid as backer to clip the board to, and run a length of lighter line behind it.

Definitely don't do it with 12# mono. It will definitely break your line by the end of the day. I wouldn't use a 44 unless I was running over 300' of copper, or over 12 colors of leadcore. Most guys I know use either the lockjaw or the OR-18 release and clamp them down so they don't release. Depending on what you're pulling, a 22 would be more suited to 12# test line, and even then I would use 15# test and leader down to lighter line, and I would probably use a lighter scotty or a yellow offshore clip set to release with a bead stop before my leader so the board doesn't hit the fish, and it's easier to net.

Transducer location sounds logical. I've experienced the anomaly where a huge school of baitfish sent my rigger racing to the surface. That lead me to believe it is very basic tech interpreting the signal.

With inlines and weighted lines, you are only fighting the board until you remove the board. After that it's just you and the fish. I ran a mast and ski system on my small boat for years until I started fishing deeper water. The inlines just make it easier for me to fish multiple depths for multiple species off both sides of my boat. I still have my big boards for shallow Browns and Coho, but the Coho aren't shallow anymore on Lake Michigan. Also, shorter 7 foot rods pointed right at the board make it easier to get the inline board to the boat.

I believe, judging by what I have witnessed with my own eyes, you are correct, Gill-T. Something is amiss with the sampling methods. They should ask the fish where the Ales are because they seem to be finding them.

What happened with the boat you were considering?

Huh???

Haha! The things we will resort to to win a tournament...