Bozeman Bob
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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob
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A 4 stroke 60 Yamaha, 4 stroke 90hp Johnson and a two stroke 10hp. Two different boats .
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My winterization process for my outboards . Put motor in down position after pulling the boat out . Unhook one of the battery cables . No snake oil fogging or fuel stabilizer . Never had a issue , fuel isn't sitting that long and water in engine drains right out . Starts right up every spring . Yes you can check lower unit for any water intrusion , usually if it has a bad seal , the rainbow in the water around the engine let's you know way before you pull it .
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I see Buffalo's Harbor also made the list . That one I can agree wholeheartedly on . You can fish from shore , the Bird Island pier or anywhere along the shoreline in the City's limit and catch , Muskies, Bass , Rainbows, walleye, crappies , sheepshead, Northern's and even Catfish . Don't need a boat , being the main point . The Bird Island pier extends for maybe two miles ,going from the Niagara river ,below the Peace Bridge into the Lake itself ,one of the most awesome places to hike and fish .
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And the Ontario snow that pounds the Tug hill area AND continues East ,does not all make it back to Ontario, so the argument is moot . And if Erie didn't have any lake effect moisture , there would be more water flowing into Ontario. The upper 4 lakes water levels are always changing, Mother Nature . Ontario's water level is controlled or messed up by a few humans ,depending on how you look at it .
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Lake effect snow does not add any water to the lakes , if anything it draws water from the lakes , dumps it on land , then most ,not all , of it returns to either Erie or Ontario . Depending on which way the wind is taking the snow ,or rain . There is only so much water on earth, including what's in our bodies . It's all one big cycle, just like a terrarium . We die ,get buried , any moisture left in us ends up in the ground ,then it works it way back to the surface , then up into the atmosphere, then back to the earth as precipitation. Sea levels will not rise if the ice caps melt , The ice itself displace's water , when it melts that ice space is replaced by water .
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Maybe I Yes , I and many others use this method while trolling , it would take too long to pull the spread in and use the hand method . Which I did use while catching more than my fair share of Muskies over the years. Your looking at planner boards , dipsey divers and riggers to bring in , about 9 rods most of the time . Figure 15-20 minutes to accomplish that , which means after a few minutes the fish is DOA ,waiting for the gear to come in . We use about 8 -10' of light line , put the grip on while it's on the deck , then drop it in . When it's kicking we pull it back to the stern , and release the grip without removing the fish from the water. All I know is ,it's very very successful and was wondering if it could be applied to a Musky , IF all the other methods didn't work . Yes once in awhile you get one that doesn't make it , and yes most are stocked . I get all that , it's just a bad look having fish floating off your stern . And who knows if the fish we revived doesn't get caught again before it's time is up . Lakers are pretty hardy , don't bother with dragging them , they all swim away ,no matter how they are handled . Unlike Kings that faint at the sight of the boat ,haha , for the most part matures are somewhat fragile .
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Maybe I should reword my question ,statement . After trying to release the fish while still in the water ,let's say the hooks were not cooperating, then bring it aboard in a gurney type plastic neck , carefully removing the hooks while not touching the fish then gently putting it back in the water while holding it just above the tail ,then pulling it back and forth trying to get water going past the gills , the fish doesn't revive. Has anyone tried to put a plastic wide tip boga style grip over the lips and slowly ,as in 1mph , pull the fish through the water ? This works for me with other species of fish , with no apparent harm to them , no I don't have a underwater camera to verify they are not belly up laying on the bottom 5 minutes after I release them . I will assume 90 +% live a normal life after released that way .
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No , I do not know if after a King swims away when released , diving into the depths , if it has a relapse and floats to the surface . I've yet to see any pop back up ,so I'm hopeful that it works . I use a wider tip ,plastic style boga , which goes over the lips and pinches the bottom of the mouth . Don't think that is going to deform a fish . Yes ,the fights are different and the King is way more spent ,which means they are harder to revieve , so be it that they are stocked and have a 3 or so year life span . Kings also react negatively to being pulled from 45* water to 65+* , it can be a knock out punch to them . Those fish all survive when pulled behind the boat , sometimes for 5- 10 minutes . All the Muskies I caught back in the 90s ( or whenever the NMA was formed , original member . Can remember some harsh words from the first meeting , CR vs kill and put on Hanks board . ) were extremely hardy fish , don't recall many ,if any , not swimming away after being caught . Just making a suggestion and appreciate your reply and reasonings. And I'm not suggesting you pick up the Ski with a boga grip , more of a last gasp measure in case she is spent when you gently place her back into the water .
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The risers that I have purchased in the last few years do not have drain plugs . The old ones did have them . I have never had to replace the exhaust manifold itself , which usually have petcocks on the bottom of them .
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A closed system in the marine world means it has a heat exchanger and has anti- freeze in the block , just like a car . Open system the engine is cooled by lake water . Take the thermostat out if you think that is closing up to quickly. Yes , opening the petcocks on each side of the block and draining the water is the way to go , Air doesn't freeze the last time I checked . One thing not to overlook is the cylinder shaped in line , raw water , heat exchangers for either the engine oil or power steering pump . Usually it is attached underneath or on the lower side of the engine . It has a drain plug on the bottom of it , usually a square drive bronze plug . Or remove the hose from at least one side of the exchanger and let the water drain out . I've seen the end caps on them get " blown off " by freezing water expanding them . Again , air doesn't freeze
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Not familiar with your exact set up . On my 4 stroke in order to change the oil filter , which is lower than the bottom spark plug , I have to remove about 6 screws that hold that shroud in place . Maybe yours is like that . Or a deep offset box wrench may work . Or Google it and see what comes up .
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Wanted LOOKING FOR A DROP IN 350 OMC MOTOR
Bozeman Bob replied to Hurrikain's topic in Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade or Rent
You can buy a 350 GM motor , out of a donor boat or Michiganmotorz.com ( 3500 ,long block ) might have to swap out the flywheel and coupler . Everything else should bolt up , exhaust manifolds , distributer , alternator, starter motor ,carb as long as the " new " motor is a 88 or newer . -
Is this a closed cooling system ? If it's a Mercruiser and closed system there are two raw water pumps , one on the outdrive and one mounted near the bottom of the engine , usually opposite of the alternator. A infrared heat gun would be helpful in pinpointing where the temperature starts to climb above the normal range . Odd that it's only on one side , you might swap risers to see if it's the riser . I know you said it's 3 years old and water is seemingly flowing ok . Unless a hose is clogged,pinched ,that's the number one thing that causes only one side to heat up .
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ISO Recommendations for Niagara River Guides
Bozeman Bob replied to Slimer's topic in Open Lake Discussion
The only dangerous waters are from the QL bridge and above , heading towards Devils Hole . It can be one cold place to fish , winds screaming down the gorge ,which blocks most of the warming sunlight . Even below the bridge it can be numbing cold . Why subject a toddler to harsh conditions ? Fishing below the bridge itself to the lake the waters are smooth and no manhole size whirlpools to worry about . -
People have put the pink stuff in there freezers and it does freeze . Some mfgs ,if you read the small print , state the freezing point on there product . I would buy regular green anti- freeze and sleep well at night .
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Just saw this post , hope all went well . Carl has been battling cancer and was out of town recently getting treatments . Prayers for his fight .......
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I/Os will leak in the bellows and allow water in ,hence the question. Boroscopes will fit through very small openings and some may have a 4' + cable and lighted , that should get you into most of your closed off sections . Or break out the tools and start removing decks , leak isn't going to fix itself. Gluvit is what you want to use for sealing rivets ,check keel for tightness as well.
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Yes , filling the boat on the trailer is not a good idea and when it's in the water , pressure is applied to the hull and any loose rivets . Is it a outboard or I/O ? Next up is to launch her ,open all access ports and anything else to observe the bottom.of the hull . Might have to buy a boroscope to get into areas that are not visible . Vevor tools has them for around 100 bucks . They articulate at the end , so you can hit a button and it will visually sweep a area up and down . Very clear picture as well .
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Thompson late 80’s 210 Fisherman collecting water
Bozeman Bob replied to JCG's topic in This Old Boat
First off , I would get under the cover , have someone snap it down, then have that person use a garden hose and figure out where the water is coming in . Then I would take the custom cover back and have it repaired, couldn't off been cheap . You should not have water in the boat if that is a waterproof custom cover , period . I doubt your limber holes were closed off during the repair work , it takes awhile sometimes for the water to make it back to the stern . If they were closed off ,it wouldn't make it to the stern . Not uncommon for the bow area to be the low point of the boat while sitting . You could cut out a section of the floor and install a bilge pump there ,either a access hatch or hinge the piece you cut out . I hope you have a auto float switch and not just a on - off switch ,as you described . That's not a smart way to go with a boat ,unless your covered for sinking because some day you may show up at the dock to see it submerged . -
Yes , buy a ducer that is compatible with the FF . One that has the same number of "pins " or wires . Then buy a Airmar inline cable splice kit .Part # IP 67-10 waterproof connector ,not sure about the hyphen in that number . Ebay is where i bought mine , was 28.00 back a few years , 9/20. Cut the cable ,preferably in a dry , out of the elements location and install the splice connector. It's a pretty sturdy easy to hook up the wires , professional looking connector. No soldering required , good wire stripper and small screwdriver that's it . Or cut your current cable , attach the new cable to it , tape zip ties ,whatever you can come up with . You want it to be as small in diameter as possible and pull it back to the head unit . That's providing the cable isn't zipped tied to something to prevent the connector of the new cable from passing through. Sometimes you can just grab the cable down the line and pull it back and forth and not feel any resistance. If the MFG installed it , it may be secured somewhere. A dealer or someone else , probably not .
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^^^ , BulletBob yes ,135.00 per hour is on the cheap side, especially for a Marina . Yes they mark items up ,just like auto repair shops , been like that forever. You could bring your own parts in and they will just charge you labor . It's frowned upon and the repair shop will not be responsible for any of your parts warranty or fitting, working properly . Sometimes it cost you more bringing your own parts in , and if they don't fit or work , that's $$$ on you .You are forgetting the shops overhead in your analysis. Everyone knows , Insurance has gone up , what do you think a commercial business pays for that ? Workman's compensation, unemployment comp . , heating cost , electricity, 401K , health insurance, real estate taxes , school taxes , office supplies, office help , service writer , paying a mechanic 30- 35.00 per hour ( Going rate at most garages ) and I'm sure a handful of other things that cut into your actual profit . So a business owner is not sticking 1500.00 into his pocket for one days work .
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First off , the OPs question should of been before the work was done ,not after . Not any different than someone buying a boat ,then asking if he got a good deal . Secondly, labor rates in the car industry are anywhere from 150 to 200.00 per hour , how does that translate to the marine rate ,which is usually higher . Thirdly we don't know what the exact parts are ,or what they cost . People should ask these forums BEFORE , not after , the work is done or boat is bought , the ship has left the port at this point .
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MichiganMotorz , has the rebuilt L6 for 2899.00 . Probably the cheapest and quickest drop in replacement. A local engine shop might be another option , they are usually busy now ,car racing season, so be prepared to wait if you go that route .