Bozeman Bob

Call up or take it back to dealer , if mechanic is there let him walk you through what the problem is.

If your talking about your Eisenglass, any upholstery/canvas shop should be able to do it.

Yes [ to answer your question ]. you can rev it up in neutral , the impeller runs off the vertical shaft , which spins about the same speed as the motor ,depending on the upper gear reduction . The "bullet " or lower leg is where it engages in F N R , so the drive/impeller shaft is always moving in conjunction with your throttle regardless if your in gear or not. I would not go crazy reving it up, maybe in the 2,000 rpm range ,don't want to grenade the motor by redlining it.

The impeller controls how much water goes through the leg , not " moving through the water ". You could tow a boat at 60 mph and if the boat/engine being towed was idling no more water would go through the system than if it was docked and idling. The drive shaft which the impeller is connected to dictates how much and how fast water is pumped towards the block.You cannot push water past the blades of the impeller unless they are missing. Even then it would be minimal at best . Most ,if not all motors that overheat with rotted out impellers start to overheat when a load ,as in getting on a plane ,is put on them ,not when idling at the dock.

Not sure how you winterized it correctly if you had raw water in your exhaust manifolds. There is no low RPM bypass valve that allows coolant water to skip the block. That's what your thermostat is for. Would have to see the schematic for your cooling system to see why you did not get anti freeze in the manifolds like you hoped for. I highly doubt your impeller is the reason , I used to put new ones in every couple years when I had I/Os. So replace it and see how it works out for you next fall ,doubt that will affect the outcome. You should have a separate water pump on the block ,just like a car ,that circulates the water through the block .Generally the outdrive pumps water through a heat exchanger,[ which should have a drain plug as well, for your power steering,] then to the actual water pump , which circulates the water through the block , manifolds and out the exhaust. Again the easiest thing to do is pull the block , exhaust manifold and elbow manifold bronze plugs , then take a zip tie and clear the holes out of rust .

First off its a little late to be asking this question . If you have a open cooling system which it sounds like, I would say you did not put enough anti freeze into the block. The block alone , if a V-8 will hold at least 2 gallons , your is a V-6 , not sure of its capacity ,then however much is held in the hoses comes into play. You are "probably " cracked block free " if you drained the manifolds , including the elbows and better yet if you drained the block ,which does have either a petcock or brass bolt on each side. Sounds like your outdrive impeller is working if you got some anti freeze out the exhaust . Always best in a open system to open all the brass plugs , manifold ,elbows and block before purging . Some people like to keep it in after that for rust inhibition . Me , I open everything up ,blow some air into every outlet and don't bother with any anti freeze. , air doesn't freeze. Do you have a manual , they usually tell the procedure for there block/

The paperwork when I did it needed info for trailer and tow vehicle . Distance between axles on trailer , then distance to rear axle on truck and or distance to front axle. Overall length of set up , capacity of axles and tires also comes to mind. Then you are restricted to usually daylight hours and sometimes not allowed to tow on weekends or near big cities during certain times of the day.They may require your tow route as well and a over width sign to hang on the transom . We had one for the front of the truck , but took it off after the engine started to overheat due to lack of air hitting the radiator.

Probably need a permit for Ohio ,Pennsylvania and New York , if your going the legal route. If boat doesn't have a trailer I know a guy that does it part time and has the permits. NY permits are 50- 75.00 . You could Google it and get someone to get all the permits for you ,which might cost you another 75.00. What is the beam at the transom ? That's usually the spot where a trooper would measure . I break the law and move my over width boat (10' ) on a Saturday or Sunday and have a pick up follow me for the 35 mile ride ,have yet to be stopped and many times have driven by Troopers and Sheriffs cars. But that's me.

How did she forget , Into the Mystic ? Also covered by Joe Cocker. Down by the River , Neil Young

^^^ Did the same thing when boat was stored in my driveway, luckily it is stone and not cement or paved. Sort of thought the same thing but figured he would of looked at that to see if anything on the outside or lower shaft was stopping them from.dropping.

All the replies above are spot on . You will be happier in the long run with the bigger boat no matter where you fish. The 6,000 difference is on a new boat ? Seems to be quite a few nice used ones in the size range listed on here and Craigs. Just a thought if spending a extra 6K is not in your wheelhouse. Don't want to get anyone in a uproar but ,,,, I have not heard a lot of good things about Trackers. I would rather buy the 17.5 StarCraft listed on here and if need be trade in the desirable Honda 4 stroke 50 hp to go bigger. Quality aluminum hulls last forever and what your saving by going that route would allow you to buy a brand new or slightly used engine . Would water test any boat to make sure it has the performance that you want. [ I have no connections with that boat or seller. ]

Taking a guess here . If you push the rudders back up as far they can go and there is nothing on the rudder shaft that looks like it would impede the rudder I would drop them down again. Then I would put a block of wood over the top of shaft and tap that with a hammer to see if you get any movement. The only place that makes sense for some kind of keeper device should be on the upper rudder shaft and not in or below the rudder housing. The ones I dropped a few years ago had a tar substance on them which led to the tapping sequence ,they dropped like a rock after a few hits. As I recall there was a key way along with a collar that kept the rudder shaft in the proper position

Your going to need the maximum rpm's that the engine gets at wot with a average load on board. Then read the tag (usually )on the valve cover to see what the max rpms are ,probably around 4400- 4600 for that motor if memory serves me right. At this point you can take your old prop to a prop shop and get there recommendation. Or try wire brushing the outer hub where the retaining nut rest on. The numbers are normally stamped there. The most common pitch for that setup is 19 " or 17 " and the diameter probably in the 15+ - range. So If you have a 19 and are hitting 4,000 rpms you would go down to a 17" pitch with the same diameter to get your rpms up to the recommended number. And that number is key, so that your not constantly lugging the engine if over pitched or revving it too high if under pitched. Basically if you want to skip the prop shop we need the rpm number and what's on there now. I have never seen a prop that isn't stamped ,so do some wire brushing or scraping to locate it.

To the statement about US citizens not being allowed into Canada because of a possible record ,like a DUI. Canadian laws have changed. You can buy a Canadian license on line and as of last year you are allowed to enter Canadian waters and fish or cruise without calling in. If you anchor or touch land in any way , then you are required to call in and possibly be denied entry. So my understanding is ,even if you have a misdemeanor of some sort ,your legal under the new ( original ) law..

Agree with FF34 , your eyes will adjust better with the light above and even or slightly in front of your sightline. Just think of walking in the woods with a flashlight ,you can see more if you hold it over your head than holding it at your waist and pointing forward. Stadium lighting is always high for a reason. You will not get any glare off the bow of the boat that way. Spotlight or HID LED bar light is your next option . Spotlight is good for zeroing in on buoys ect in the harbor. LED is more of a flood light and has no moving parts to break as well as working better in a fog ,[ for other boats to see you ] if you are caught in one without radar. Either is better than nothing.

Wouldn't think you would get any glare off your windshield , seeing that you don't have one . I would mount it on the T-Top , the higher the better. That should reduce any glare off the water . Most ,if not all hard top boats have them mounted on the hard top , not there pulpits. Seems like it gives more off a seeable spread and is out of harms way. Most of the boats I see with pulpit lights are soft top and unless they make a mounting bracket on there windshield frame have no other choice as to where to mount them. Then if they did they are dealing with hiding wires in and around there frame ,which is easier said than done.

Boat is not sold out, he has 10 in his driveway. Take a drive over and look at them. Maybe he will give you a deal when you hand him American cash.....Ban the spam....