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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. MichiganMotorz , has the rebuilt L6 for 2899.00 . Probably the cheapest and quickest drop in replacement. A local engine shop might be another option , they are usually busy now ,car racing season, so be prepared to wait if you go that route .
  2. Inboard or I/0 , some people don't know the difference. Straight inboards are easy to work on , extremely reliable and you should get 4 - 6,000 hours out of one that is maintained. They are quiet when trolling , using about a gallon to the hour and typically 1 .2 ---1.6 mpg on a 28-30' rig . That is there big downfall ,along with not being able to trim the bow up as your drive shaft is permanently in a fixed position, so a I/O with the same power and hull will trim out to a much faster speed . The extra weight of the engines low in the hull will mitigate the rocking if in the ditch .I/Os are situated higher up and many ,not all will have a dog house to contend with . Or your deck is sitting a foot or so higher from the water than a inboard model , if it's a flush deck making it a bit harder to handle fish and raising your center of gravity ,,, more rocking . Not going to find many outboard cruisers in that length unless you go newer , like a Parker or a CC . I personally don't like fishing around the outboards vs a clean transom , to each his own .
  3. Where did you buy the battery ? Direct from the mfg . ? It may have a dead cell , the charger recognizes that and won't try to charge it . Not sure if your saying the charger has 10-30- 50- 90 - 100 settings and if so how that translates to the battery being charged . Any possibility that you can post picture of charger ,or make and model so we can google it to see exactly what you're dealing with . Same thing with the battery ,make ,model , may help us figure your dilemma out .
  4. Most newer battery chargers , like the last decade , will have a setting for the particular type of battery ,lead , lithium, deep cycle are usually what's listed . If it doesn't have that option it more than likely is for lead batteries ,not lithium.
  5. Extremely hard to read your post . If I understand what you wrote , my first question , is the charger set up to charge various types of batteries , including Lithium Ion ? If so do you have set in that mode ? What other types of batteries did the charger work on ? Do you have a battery load tester or can you go to a auto repair shop and have it tested along with that shop looking at your charger to make sure it is the correct one for you .
  6. **** load of variables, from how hard it's blowing and for how long to how close you are to the source of the currents . If your within 10-20 miles of say the Niagara River dumping into O , it would never affect the deep current . Your by Rochester and it's been blowing hard for a week it may shift the current a bit . Then you have different levels of where the current might start ,say at 50' or maybe 100' if your on the fringe of the main current channel . Current is going to be a lot stronger near the source or outflow ,like Oswego than it will be in the area of the center of it . I'm not a marine hydroligist and could be way off in my take on your question .
  7. Does the oil smell like gear oil , there is a distinct difference between engine oil and gear oil . If it's gear oil and seemingly coming from the bellows you have a bad upper seal on the input shaft on the outdrive . If it's engine oil , it's coming out the engines exhaust and you probably have valve seals , piston rings going south . I agree with Chinook on the pressure testing if it's 90 wt gear oil on the ground .
  8. Those in-line 6s are bulletproof. Hammer it down ,trim it out and take note of the RPMs . That's the only way to know if you're propped correctly. The only thing I would do is swap it out to a electronic ignition , as in no points ,if it hasn't already been done .
  9. Well , you never opened it up and wonder why you're only getting 12 mph ? Seriously ? You could be right below the speed where the boat gets up on a plane and all you're doing is pushing water . Your tach , should be 1 - 200 RPMs ( with your normal load and gas level ) under the Mfg rated ones , which is usually marked on the valve cover , if you're propped correctly. No , pulling the prop is not going to allow you to count gear teeth. You have to pull the outdrive , mark both the drive shaft and prop shaft , spin the drive shaft 365 and note how many times the prop shaft turns with one turn of the drive shaft . Doesn't have to be precise , but should give you a ballpark figure of the gear ratio. Report back after you take it out , run it at WOT and trim the outdrive up to just below where it starts to cavitate . You'll feel or hear the RPMs going up at that point . Going to need the RPM numbers from that test ride . Yes ,3900 - 4300 rpms is the rating , 4100 + would be the sweet spot , below 3900 means you are lugging the engine , working it to death . Generally they try to have you running a 17 -19 pitch prop , so the drives are all geared for that .
  10. What size is the new prop vs the old one ? How many RPMs are you getting at WOT ? Are you 100% sure the outdrives are the same ratio ? As in you've spun the prop / prop drive shaft and counted the rotations to at least get a idea that they are the same ratio ?
  11. Bleach also destroys the threading in the fabric seams ,be careful with chlorox .
  12. Spray 9 for everything boat related .
  13. What outdrive is on it ? OMC have not been made in decades ,parts are not always easy to find like a Mercruiser over the counter part . Cobra engines I've been told are not that desirable for the same reason . The hull itself ,without seeing if it has a doghouse or the motor is under the deck , isn't something I would be looking at for a fishing boat . Can it be done , yes , bit probably wont be a comfortable boat to fish out of . Where are you mounting the tracks ,downriggers, rod holders etc is something to consider . Boat reg number indicates it's a S Carolina boat ,salt or fresh water ? Stringers and transom need to be verified as solid . Your looking at a 35 year old boat with no knowledge of how its been stored over the years .
  14. Fin on lower unit is supposedly designed to keep your boat on a plane at a lower speed . Not to help you get on plane . I don't believe in them ,especially for the size of your boat . If they were the " answer " they would of been integrated into all lower units decades ago . I would pull that off , nothing but drag in your case . Lowering your pitch will NOT negatively affect your top speed , should increase it . Do the math , 21 " prop X 3800 rpm will get you how many inches you traveled ( no prop slip figured in ) Now multiply 19" X 4600 rpms . Not having your exact numbers ,just using this as a example. Your engine is constantly lugging ( wearing out the engine ) right now , know matter the speed and burning more fuel in the process . SS props will be a tad more efficient as the blades don't flex like aluminum will , so less prop slip . Drawback is , you hit something at cruising speed and the prop shaft takes the brunt of the hit , vs the " give " in aluminum. 4 blade will have less slip , smidgen less top end ( drag of extra blade ) and slightly lift the stern of the boat . Probably your best bet if you're constantly leaving port with a full load .
  15. Check with Yankee Troller ,he has the goods .
  16. Trolling bags will settle it down in the ditch . I use G2 outfitters , there bags IMHO are best ones out there . Probably going to need them if you have fuel injected engines , as they have a ECM that controls your idle rpms vs a carburetor that you can adjust .
  17. Actually it mostly depends on the exhaust manifolds risers height in relation to the exhaust height on the transom itself . The higher the riser or engine itself in relation to the transom or corner exhaust the better . Water ingestion mostly ,not always ,happens when you come off the throttles quickly , the exhaust flapper is still open , the water comes rushing up to the transom and into the exhaust pipe and is forced into the riser then the exhaust valve itself . I've never personally heard of that happening when trolling ,even in rough seas as the engine flappers are burping off and on along with the engine not breathing hard . I could be wrong ,but that's my understanding with what I've read and heard of this issue .
  18. Not a owner ,have fished on a Pursuit . Excellent boat , similar to a Tiara but designed more for the fisherman than the wife . As in less cabin and more platform . Probably comes with a big block , 454 - 502 and velvet drives , both bullit proof .Engine bay is usually tight in them ,but workable . I would look it over with a fine tooth comb , make a offer based on it passing a survey by a accredited one , ASME / SAMS , I think are the two that are , which you will need in most cases for insurance . If the survey finds anything that $ amount to get it repaired can be taken off the offer sheet , if discussed beforehand .
  19. I believe this was a topic last year in mid January and a lot of people got all excited about it .... Yep , Erie froze shortly thereafter. The more things change the more they remain the same . I wouldn't get worked up until February.....
  20. The narrower the beam the easier it cuts through the water . Ever notice the " Cigarette " type hulls , designed like that for a reason. Now when your trolling they rock way to much for my liking . Don't even think about putting it in the ditch . Most CCs are wet boats as in only the guy behind the console escapes being soaked in any sort of conditions, exception being flat calm.
  21. I hope that after 3 years he resolved that issue , like shortly thereafter, as in days
  22. One deep cycle battery should run electronics and riggers all day long , if not a few days , without having to be charged. Electronics are all state of the art, low draw . Riggers are basically windshield wiper motors that you might run up and down 5- 10 times a day IMHO . They don't draw a ton of juice either . If your worried a solar charger might help , as we do get sunshine that time of the year , spring and summer .
  23. Should be able to see the outline . Doesn't affect high speed . Bolt on or flush professionally done job ,do it once ,do it right .
  24. They work excellent, Tiaras have smallish rudders to begin with . Difference is night and day , figure around a grand to do them . The extension are welded on , that's the only way to do them . Highly recommended and would do it to just about any boat I owned to be used for trolling , especially with auto pilot .
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