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Bozeman Bob

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Everything posted by Bozeman Bob

  1. One of the more confusing classifieds post I have seen . Title says he is looking for a mold and his post says he is selling gear, with no mention of the mold. Then the responses are ,how much for the mold. Classic.
  2. www.fish307.com is the cheapest place I could find them at. Just make sure you get the battery end and not motor end ,and they are pretty much labeled that way. I think they were around 30.00 per. I also went with 12 volt 30 amp circuit breakers from NAPA instead of fuses.
  3. They are regulated and the same amount of water that was diverted before this tunnel was put into operation is by passing the falls. 50% over and 50% to the feeder systems. The only way they regulate the actual water going into Ontario is through the dam above the falls and that is more of a diversion than dam, as it only goes about 1/4 or less of the way to the other side.I believe when they shut the doors on that its at night and that's so more water is forced into the feeder tunnels on both sides of the river. They don't do it in the day so as to let more water go over the falls for the tourist to see.
  4. I am well aware of a dealers overhead, including taxes,building and liability insurance, workmans comp, unemployement insurance utilities ,employee's etc. And I also know 90% do not want your trade in and are looking for clean deals. The last thing they want is a overpriced used boat going out the door and there responsible or whatever breaks in the next few weeks or so. IF you have bought every car you have ever owned from a dealer then I bow down to you and your post. Something tells me , no way and I shouldn't worry about me eating crow.
  5. IMHO any dealership is going to low ball you big time. Just like trading in a car, snowmobile, motorcycle etc. they will give 3,000 for it and sell it for 4500 after you walk out the door. I would list it here and Craigs , sell it and then go boat shopping. You now have some cash in hand and room to barter at the dealership and they have a clean deal, which they wanted to begin with . When trading in they know you want a particular boat and will keep that price high knowing that they hold most of the cards.
  6. From my good buddies book , The Quest for Girthra , listed under Musky Bill's List of Forty # 23- I didn't catch any, but I lost a 50-incher. RIP Goober
  7. Good luck with the sale , appears to be in VCG !
  8. Probably ablative paint which is designed to wear off like that.Helps prevent a big build up of paint over time. No you do not have to sand and start over. I normally just paint over it from the waterline down to where the side meets the bottom,but not the bottom. Also I paint the stern and a small area on the bow. Pretty much where the sun shines on the hull. Algae usually doesn't grow unless it has sun,so the actual bottom never seems to have growth on it. I use interlux ablative paint, about 90.00 a gallon and it takes me a few years to go through it with my painting method.
  9. Good pair of sunglasses ! Pros , are obvious . Cons, not great in low sunlight ,cloudy days or night. If not installed correctly ,looks like hell. Spring , fall , and some summer days it's nice to have the sun warm up the helm area. Honestly haven't seen many boats with it added. If you don't like it, just peel it off, not going to break the bank. Personally I wouldn't do it with my boat , I have a hard top with a big overhang and two of my windshields open all the way up for ventilation, I just like a clean view when conditions are not ideal.
  10. I will be so happy when Ted finds his angler !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  11. No mine are custom made , 3 boards per unit , the slight bow would be the last couple feet where the waves hit the line at the attached point of the release and sometimes in the middle. Yes if the lake is like glass you get minimal sag. Sorry but if I am running a few coppers, I do get some sag , not constant ,even with the boards pulling " like hell " . My pulley is almost 9' above the waterline. Back to the lifting question, your fulcrum point is above the halfway mark of the height of the board and that will have create a tendency for the outside board to lift , helped along by larger waves that may have the board skipping along on the surface. With 3 boards per unit and 2' wide, your attachment eye may be able to go up a bit more than halfway.
  12. The boards are usually so far out there that the towing line has a bow in it and is now no where even close to remotely lifting the boards. Most of the time the last 10 feet or so of line is crashing the waves ,not above them. Now if you ran them 25' feet from the boat, maybe.
  13. No.its pulling the board that is trying to move away from the boat at the center line. A example , two 4x8 pieces of plywood standing on there sides connected by 2x4 x 8' So there 8' apart, now pull on one 4x8 near the the top,the other sheet will lift up.Now pull it from the middle and see how much harder it is to lift , if you can even lift it.
  14. Eye bolts too high and the board may have a tendency to be pulled over or lift the outside board so it's not dragging in the water like you want it to. To low and the line is always dragging in the water along with your fishing line not getting out to the board.
  15. The plan states its 3" above the bottom,which translates to about 1/2" above center line,based on the 1 x 6 being a true 5& 1/2" width board.
  16. "The Huh???" I believe was in reference to, what does this have to do with wiring a downrigger. Pretty much the same as if I replied with make sure you carry a Danforth anchor. [ Along with the fact that 25 watts of power is nothing. My boat radio puts out 50 watts to the speakers through crappy speaker wire with no problem. The 25 is more like 22 actual and I could power it with a 14 gauge wire all day long and it would still put out the same ]
  17. Limited space and only going to run one wire/copper line per side,go Otter. Big boat and plan on running at least 2 wire / copper lines per side, go with a 3 board planer board. Pulls like a beast and rides the rough stuff without bouncing all over the place. Foot print is about 2' ×3' laying down.
  18. . If you go to Raymarines web site they will have schematics for all there models and specifically where it gets Teed into,usually as close to the ram as possible. If that applies to your system. If you have any other questions there is a forum that may take a couple working days for a response from the moderator
  19. Probably have to Ebay one . Usually the spindles are the same size. No parts book ever made for 99% of the boats out there.
  20. Not exactly, if you have numbers under 85-90, in most if not all cases, the engine is in need of a rebuild.
  21. Basically a compression test will tell you there is or isn't a problem. The leak down will help pinpoint where the problem is originating from. If you have good compression there is no need for a leak down test.
  22. The leak down test is not going to give you compression numbers [ which are the most important ] and is more time consuming and the last time I checked will requires a compressor or a air tank at the very least. IF you had a low number in one of the cylinders then ,yes, go to a leak down test, to possibly verify where your losing the compression , but if your numbers are good there is really no reason for it.
  23. When I had cannons I used there plug in system . I also used 12 V DC 30 amp circuit breakers instead of fuses, who wants to mess around with fuses in 4' waves ? I did install a 30 amp on off switch between the house battery and the rigger cables as the Cannons have that positive ion thing going on and I THINK that it always had a battery draw because of that, hence the switch.
  24. STX is a basic up and down model. Digi Troll has more features, key pad, speed settings, distance to bottom feature, jigging feature and a couple more. Just punch the two model numbers into the search icon on ebay and read the description of the ad. Same motor, simplicity [no key pad ] vs bells and whistles that you may or may not use. You would have to decide if you think you actually would use the extra features of the Digi for the extra money.
  25. Anywhere from 140 to 220 would be acceptable numbers. My engine rebuilder tells me 150 is the magic number. The big thing is the numbers should be within 75-90% of each other, [ depending on who is giving you that % info.] So for 75% if one is reading 150 the lowest one should not be under 110. All plugs should be out and coil wire/ignition disarmed. Wouldn't hurt if the engine was warmed up first if that's possible at this time of the year, but not a deal breaker. All gauges read different so a Harbor Freight might read 145 and a Snap On may read 150, the numbers will even vary if made by the same company for that matter.I would only be worried if all the numbers were below 115-120. If you have reading of 130's the engine may be good for another 5-10 years depending on oil changes and abusing the throttle from a standing start. A rebuilt 4.3 is 2,000 tops, probably get a new short block for that amount of money,if not a lot less. 4.3s are a dime a dozen in the bone yards for that matter.
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