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NPike

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Posts posted by NPike

  1. Never heard of any DEC sponsored effort "or there Canadian counterparts" to purposely eliminate the Burbut otherwise known as the lingcod?

    As mentioned I've caught a few fishing for walleye in deeper waters in some shields lakes in Ontario. I do know some people purposely target them.

     

    http://www.in-fisherman.com/burbot/how-to-catch-burbot/

    http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/articles/4dp807nQZBq6sJSTSgjMY1y/10-fishy-facts-about-burbots

  2. Solid couple hours out there, darkness crept up on me fast. I'll be out tomorrow as well. Got about 50-60, 25 keeper size. Perch and gills. No crappie, everyone I've talked to hasn't even seen one come through so far. Guy out there got 4 tigers, biggest being 28. Found out a 37" was also caught and released yesterday. I had one flag go up but was off by the time I ran over. Ice is anywhere from 2-4", thicker in the middle. Bigger gills coming up from bottom if you can get past the millions of 4 inch perch. Lots of holes drilled out there so watch your footing.

    attachicon.gifIMG_1482446774.436317.jpg

    be very careful when walking on such thin early ice? Bring a pole test the ice (they actually make something specifically for this for testing the ice). Good luck

  3. The whole musky thing for me is like hunting. I certainly wouldn't kill a cheetah, cuz I'm not going to eat it. A musky is a sport fish, not going to eat that either. Right on tman & tracytrolling.

    Besides depending on where you fish Musky's have to be at least 40" to keep, or longer in some waterways. And the season for musky's is closed until the last in May.

    Tigermusky's or Norlunge have the same season as pike. But a larger size limit 30" in NYS, 36" for Otisco.

    I believe any adult member of any member of the Esox family should be respected and valued not just Musky's or Hybrids. It takes a Northern Pike often over 10 years to reach 10+ pounds

  4. From what I hear coming form the guys that fish Otisco it's similar in winter to what goes on at Conesus, once it ice ups. Tents and windbreakers blanket the lake with many fishing for Esox. Most of the guys out on the ice are meat fisherman and even if they aren't many improperly handle the fish on the ice, thus insuring the fish will likely die. I wish they had some way to better control the slaughter of (10 to 15+) pound fish. Yes it's legal, just perhaps not ethical. Some of the largest fish in the lake come out thru holes in the ice and they usually don't go back. Big pike grow relatively slow as well and 20 pounders have been taken thru the ice.

  5. And if Ur vmc aren't sharp outta the box, u didn't order the conecuts

    Zack I have found Owners and Gamakatsu’s trebles to be sharper than VMC’s chemically sharpened cone cuts or say Eagle Claws laser sharpened hooks. Not saying these aren’t good solid hooks, but if I use them I touch them up just a little, that’s all. Also Owner and Gamakatsu charge a very high price for their hooks.

  6. I love it when when my 1/2 spinner bait goes right through the roof of a pikes mouth as far as hooks I like vmc. Not only are they sharp, but they stay sharp

    Agreed with smaller sized it doesn’t seem to be as critical. However with the larger hooks it is very critical. For size 1/0 to 5/0+ only a few brands are sharp out of the box: Owner, Gamakatsu and a few Mustads like their ultra points. The rest of the larger hooks made by VMC, Eagle claw, most Mustads, Tyrant to name a few need touching up when using larger baits.

  7. Key points are to sharpen the sides of the point, then just touching up the outward pointing edge. The angle used during sharpening should be keep very narrow only a few degrees.

    When the sharpened hook digs in (makes a scratch) when run across your finger nail it's sharp enough. Simple but effective test for hooks after sharpening.

    One can over sharpen a hook point thus ruining it's point which is often tempered steel. Once a hook effectivly losses it's point it will never hold the point the same way.

  8. A sharp hook should stick to your fingernail instead of sliding across it. Most new hooks do not. If it doesn't, it isn't sharp. Having sharp hooks is arguably the most important factor in strike to hookup ratio. They can become a little dull over time (due to oxidation) or from contacting structure. It is a good idea to check them often, especially after missing a fish or contacting structure. They also need to have a nice gradual taper for deep and easy penetration. So they can only be sharpened so many times before they need to be replaced. Becoming experienced at using a good flat hook file is the best way to go. Using a power tool can heat up the very point of the hook and compromise the hardness of the steel.

    Agreed I’ve come to learn sharp hooks are important as a safeguard against lost fish. My lost fish ratio has gone down by using sharp hooks. It doesn’t seem to be so much an issue with the smaller baits. But with larger hooks “for me 1/0 to 5/0â€, it seems to make a big difference. As mentioned many out of the box baits: DepthRaider’s, DDD’s, large Rapala’s, to name a few come with hooks that just aren’t that sharp. The issue it seems to get worse with larger hooks.

    Personally I like the chain saw type of file, as sold by Smity. But to each their own. The key is to file off enough material to give it that needle sharp point. This should be performed so the tip is not filed at too steep an angle. Also not to take off to much material, thus ruining the point or misshaping it to a nub.

  9. Many larger types of bait come with hooks that are not very sharp.

    Do you replace the hooks with out of the box needle sharp hooks from Owner or Gamakatsu, etc?

    Or do you use the often relatively dull large hooks that come with these baits and sharpen them yourselves. Say using the Smity file or other file.

  10. For my homemade fluorocarbon leaders I usually just tie a snap to one end which goes to the bait and tie the other end directly to my line. I do this for all types of fishing. Even when using inline spinners I rarely get a problem with line twist. Less hardware less to interfere with the bait. Food for thought.

  11. Pike as well as Musky's can also be some of the most tight lipped fish out there when they want to be.Bass can usually be enticed to bite. Take Conesus as an example many more bass are caught then are pike, at least by x3. It all depends on the mood, weather, solar lunar pattern, time of year etc.. BTW a large pike will take a swag at a smallmouth, seen it happen more than once.

  12. All the baits I mentioned earlier were or can be used as Jerkbaits, I.E: DD's, DDD's, DepthRaider (a new suspending DepthRaider has been out), Saltwater Rapala, Suicks, Swim and Jerk, etc..  I use 75% Jerkbaits and 25% spinners - jigs. Does anyone else rely heavily on Jerkbaits? I find them to be very versatile allowing you to work different techniques and different areas of the water column from (2 to 12) FOW? Next year I'm going to try the Ripper, anyone ever use the Ripper by H2O? 

    We do get the occasional boat side hits on Jerkbaits, but often they hit 70 to 20 feet from the boat which allows for a better struggle. What's been your experience with Jerkbaits? They fall into the category of casting lures.

    Thanks,

  13. Jigging can be very productive. They can be jigged or dragged in river current 12' to 25'. You must be prepared to loose a few to snags and have a heavy baitcaster with min. 50 lb braid. They can also be cast and jerked around cover or shallow flats. There are various ways to rig them for each task. You can use your imagination. Keep in mind that you will loose more fish while jigging than casting or trolling but the potential to hook more fish is there. Red October Tubes, Storm Swim Shads and Bondy Baits are all good choices. There are variations on all these in rigging techniques and presentation, depending on applications, that will help increase catch rates. You will need to do your homework on that.

    We've got a few jigging for walleye on Chautauqua in 40 to 60 FOW so they are down there.

  14. I believe pike and pickerel breed sooner than musky’s thus making it difficult for the musky’s to get a start in waters containing other species of esox. This could be a problem for introducing pure musky’s into Conesus, Silver, Hemlock, Honeoye, etc. There are a few "usually large" waterways like the St. Lawrence where they have completely separate breeding grounds and don’t interface at all when spawning, but often the spawning habit is similar.

    Personally it would be great if they swam in most of our lakes.

  15. I can’t speak for Otisco - Waneta, but I’m surprised at how Conesus manages to hold up, despite the heavy fishing pressure. I can’t image a lake that gets more fishing pressure per acre. Many keep those occasional 12 LP and up class fish. The DEC has helped a bit: building breeding ponds for northern and stocking tigers and walleyes.  

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