FishingFool34

Download the Navionics app on your phone, just as good if not better maps than you will find on most mapping cards.

There's no "turning on" an e-chip... all it is, is a small metal ball that hits some kind of microchip crystal as it spins and is supposed to give off a small electrical impulse. I've never seen any flasher with something that needed to be charged before. Could have been a UV light they were using to charge the glow paint on the flasher? They make lighted flashers as well but I think they just use small watch batteries.

Daiwa Wilderness and Shimano TDR are other options to consider well under $50 each. I run the Daiwa Wilderness 9'0 MH as a wire diver rod and it works great.

This kit is for a Yamaha F9.9 2003-2007, F15 1998-2006, T9.9 2005-2007, p/n 120-1080-00... This ended up being the wrong kit for my kicker and I am unable to return it as I didn't realize it was wrong until I opened it. I realize this is a super specific part and will likely sit here for a long time. But maybe at some point someone will need it so if this ad is still open I still have it. $100 shipped. http://static.garmin.com/pumac/Cylinder_Yamaha_Many.pdf

Do your riggers have the auto-stop feature? If so and you change to braid you will lose the auto-stop and have to manually hold the switch up to retrieve your weights.

Lots of good companies out there make meat rigs, it's more of a personal preference thing on what brand to go with. I personally like to run larger flashers with my meat rigs vs the standard FF setup, anything from 10"-13" for a flasher. I have used Herring and Alewife strips and both have worked well, I'm not familiar with sawbellies so I can't compare them.

Sounds like it needs to be recalibrated... have you tried doing it yourself? There are some pretty good walkthrough videos on how to calibrate them on YouTube.

Depends on if you're fine with aluminum or want SS. The aluminum 4 blade 16p Michigan Wheel prop I just bought with hub kit was $145 shipped.

going from a 3 blade to a 4 blade is roughly the equivalent of dropping 1" of pitch. With such a wide range of max rpms and the fact you're over revving even with that wide of a range. I'd would guess you could likely go to a 4 blade and still go up an inch or two in pitch. I just put a 16p 4 blade on my boat so I know there are 16p 4 blades available (mine was a 15x16p). Goodluck

I went with a 26"x34" with the 4-7ft handle and coated net and it's perfect size imo. I got mine from Fishusa… says they are backordered right now though. Likely a Covid related issue, I doubt a fishing net company was considered essential so they likely have not been in production for the past few months. If you're not in a hurry Fishusa is usually pretty good about notifying you when something is back in stock if you sign up for their backorder alert.

There used to be Water Wolf cameras but I'm pretty sure they went out of business. Those had no cable but recorded video internally and you could watch it later. Now there is the Go Fish Camera system, they supposedly can be trolled. Again I believe this records and then you can transfer and view on your phone after. The ice fishing systems with cables you're talking about are for live real-time viewing. If that's what you're looking for I don't believe there is anything out that can do that wirelessly underwater.

I have a pair of plastic fish grips that I use for releasing fish. I tie the grips to a piece of rope and drag the fish along side of the side of the boat. I only do this if it was an extended fight or I had trouble getting the hooks out. 1-2 mins along the side of the boat is usually enough to bring most of them back. Normally if everything went well, I use the "torpedo" technique as we call it and toss them back in head first. I also avoid taking pics or holding them vertically by the gills if we are going to release them.

You're already at one of the best places to find recent fishing reports, second to only a buddy who was just out yesterday. There are reports out of just about every port on the south shore posted frequently on LOU. At minimum it will give you an idea of where to start. Read the reports, think about what the winds did between that report and when you go out and adjust accordingly. Cover as much of the water column as you can until you figure out where they are biting. For me knowing temp is important but I think the biggest advantage of the fishawk is down speed. My first 2 years I fished without one and just used GPS speed. Now that I have a fishawk I see how crazy different downspeed vs GPS speed can be and why I had days I only caught lakers and other days why I got skunked.

I just did this exact thing on Memorial Day Weekend except we went to Olcott. There are a couple places in Olcott you can rent that come with a slip included in the rental (which is what we did). I found the place through Airbnb and I think we paid $150/night for the place we stayed in. Transient docks at the Newfane Marina in Olcott were $1.25/ft/night so figure $30 of that $150/night is for your dock and you're down to $120 for a cottage/house. You can barely get a hotel room for that and we had an entire house basically in the marina with our boat parked 50ft away. There are a lot more rentals in Olcott compared to Wilson and it's only a 10-15 min boat ride to Wilson. Fishing was off the charts while we were there too, can't wait to go back next year!

Shimano TDR has a 7'0 MH model available on fishusa, I use the AFW camo wire and haven't had any issues with it.

you could try adding a snubber to help absorb some of the impact while dropping the ball. Losing autostop means that the rigger will reel the ball all the way to the boom and keep reeling until you manually stop it. You're also gonna have to deal with fleas come summertime and they love to stick to braided line. Personally I wouldn't switch my riggers to braid because of the reasons mentioned above, but I have never had the issues you're describing. Goodluck

https://www.cmetrolling.com/product-page/uv-mop

2" of pitch is about 300rpms, so try a 15x19", might get you pretty close to what you're looking for.

03 Yamaha F9.9ELRB, Had issues with it not starting and getting gas in the oil at the end of last year. Turns out that issue was the fuel pump, replaced that this year and it would start and run well, but it was a PITA to get started. So I pulled the carb, cleaned it and now it starts up super easy. Well now my issue comes when I go to shut it down, if I drop it into neutral after running for any length of time, it slowly revs up while in neutral. It revs up to the point I have to shut it down and restart it because I'm afraid to shift it back into gear at such high rpms and risk braking something. Sometimes I can get it to drop back to normal idle rpms if manually rev it up while in neutral. I also notice a good amount fuel in the water after it's shutdown. Any suggestions