FishingFool34

perfect I'll take them.

Polished or satin?

Here is a better price on the TR1 core pack, I would call to confirm they have it in stock before placing an order just to be safe. https://www.boatersland.com/garmin-tr-1-gold-marine-autopilot-without-throttle-and-bracket-ne.html

Yes that is exactly what I am saying. I’m in a very similar position as you and have been researching this for a while now. My kicker is older (2005 Yamaha 9.9 carb)and is not compatible with the new reactor system. I like you already have a throttle control unit for my kicker as well. There’s nothing you would be doing that would void any warranty, everything would be factory Garmin parts installed exactly how they say. You would just not be purchasing a completely separate and optional part from them.

I don't understand why carb vs EFI matters if you're not using their throttle controller. All you need is core system and cylinder mounting kit for your kicker. I think you're still looking at the Reactor 40 system info... 1999 Merc 15hp & newer (looks to be same p/n as the 9.9)is listed below with the part number for the cylinder mount for the TR1 Gold AP system. https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=iWIKkJsON5AUtL3TUMduC7 West Marine has the core TR1 system in stock and the cylinder mounting kits you can get from a couple different places if you do a google search. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/garmin--tr-1-gold-marine-autopilot--17143165?cm_sp=Onsite-Recs-_-DY-_-Search-Results https://www.mygreenoutdoors.com/garmin-tr-1-cylinder-bracket-kit-f-mercury-9-9-1999-2004-mercury-15-1999-2009-120-1010-01/ That should be everything you need to run the TR1 system with your iTroll.

I think the issue with the new Reactor 40 kicker system is that it is all electronic, where the TR1 system is mainly hydraulic. Missing electronic components like throttle control may cause a fault or error in the system. But in the TR1 system the throttle control is completely separate of the main hydraulic AP so having something different controlling the throttle wouldn't have any affect on the main AP system.

What was the reason you couldn't use the Garmin TR1 Gold AP system? The system is a generic system designed for kickers, you purchase the specific cylinder mounting kit for your motor and specific throttle control unit separately from the core AP system. If you use the iTroll for throttle control instead of the separate unit that Garmin sells, the TR1 should still control the steering without any issues. With all the people running the TR1 system here I wouldn't be surprised if someone has the system with an aftermarket throttle control like Trollmaster or iTroll. There is an old thread on the walleye central forums about a guy with the TR1 system where the throttle control that came with the TR1 stopped working. He said instead of fixing it he added a trollmaster throttle control and hasn't had any issues. https://www.walleyecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281314

That is the Non-Linecounter version but other than yet, yes that is the reel they are referring too. The linecounter version is STTLW50LCHA.

You could look into the Garmin TR-1 Gold AP system. The engine specific throttle actuator is sold separately with that unit anyway. If you don't need it just don't buy it.

Okuma Convector 45LS with upgraded drags, won't find a better reel than that for $100. https://www.tacklehaven.com/okuma-convector-high-speed-trolling-reels-with-dragmaster-washers/

I think I chimed in on your other thread talking about kicker AP, so I won't get into that as others have mirrored what I said already. I emailed Garmin maybe 2 weeks ago asking about the Reactor 40 Kicker AP, they answered my email in less than 24hrs. Their site is a little tricky when it comes to asking for support but here is a link to the page I emailed them through (click on the email tab on the bottom right side, for serial number I just put 1). Try that or just call them. https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?partNumber=010-00705-94&tab=topics&topicTag=region_setup

Depends on what you're fishing for. For salmon you really don't need any imaging or even CHIRP for that matter. Walleye/Bass fishing on the other hand, imaging and CHIRP are much more useful. Brand-wise it's basically a ford/chevy/dodge debate, people like what they like because they just do. I like Humminbird because it's what I have always had and am comfortable using them. Some feel the same way about Lowrance. Simrad, Raymarine, Garmin are other big name names that make really good units and likely have one that will do whatever you're looking to do.

That would be my choice as well, no hydraulic lines or pumps to deal with. Just make sure you get the Reactor 40 system specifically designed for use with a kicker motor. Depending on your electronics setup you can skip the GHC display, save $300 and connect it to your sonar via NMEA 2000 network. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/672710/pn/010-00705-95

Not sure of the steering setup on your main (hydraulic, power assist, mechanical?) do you need to have the big motor running for the auto pilot to be able to steer it? If not why don't you just connect the main and kicker with an EZ steer setup? Save you thousands of dollars to not have to buy another AP unit. Then you just let the AP on the main steer the kicker via the EZ steer rod. I know Yankee mentioned the Lowrance Outboard AP but I don't think that is meant for a small kicker motor. Only options for dedicated kicker AP that I know of are the two Garmin units I mention above.

Nope, they both control the throttle the exact same way, a small servo motor with a linkage to the throttle. The differences between the two units are the remotes and couple extra features of the trollmaster. Either unit will have a model to work on just about any kicker, the only thing that changes is the mounting bracket and linkage rod.

Only options for kicker AP that I know of are Garmin. The TR-1 Gold which is now discontinued (but you can still find them) and the Compact Reactor 40 which is the replacement for the TR-1. Compatible kicker options are limited on the new CR-40 system so it depends on what year your kicker is.

There's a few different options depending on your budget and list of features you want/need. iTroll, Trollmaster and ControllKing. Personally I have only used the control king and haven't had any major issues. The one time I had to call them because my servo motor went bad they gave me the part number and said I could order it through them or pick up one and my nearest radio shack and gave me the p/n to find it at radio shack. The man I spoke to was the owner of the company and extremely helpful. Control King being the most basic, with a simple wired dial to control speed. Trollmaster is mid range, with a wireless option and a few more bells and whistles. iTroll is top of the line with multiple different pre-programmed modes and tons of options.

Pretty sure what you're describing is exactly the same thing my Mag 5HS riggers do. I always assumed it was normal? You hit up on switch and it starts raising them, then you hit down to stop them otherwise it keeps reeling up. If you have auto-stop on your riggers I don't see how this is avoidable. Once you hit up on the switch it activates the auto-up/auto-stop feature which keeps reeling in until the circuit is broken at the surface.

I've never had a trailer inspected in my life and have never had any issues or even been asked about it before.