FishingFool34

I went with option 3 myself. Along with changing engine and lower unit oil on main and the kicker. Also made sure to get washdown/livewell pump, both fish box pumps, and water tank. Also gave the boat a good wash and quick wax, fingers crossed everything turns out alright!

I wouldn't leave your top up, snow can get heavy and possibly bend/break your poles. I would take the cover off and out of the boat. Build a A-frame and tarp it up tight.

The longer setups are useable for much more of the season if you ask me. I always have a 10 color or 300 copper out from June to September. 5 and 7 color get put away after late April/May and maybe used again late Sept. Unless you're fishing for browns mid-summer which is why I have those setups but I mainly chase Salmon all summer. Goodluck.

If I had those reels I would prolly do this magda 45 - 5 color magda 45 - 7 color clarion 453 - 10 color clarion 453 - 10 color Penn 340 - 200 or 250 copper diawa saltiest - 300 copper diawa saltiest - 300 copper Clarion 553 - 400 copper If you run 30 or 40lb braid on the 300+ copper setups as backing you should be able to fit plenty of backing on those reels.

First year winterizing an I/O and I have done lots of research... I'm confident I know how to do it. My question is which method to do. I've come across 3 methods that all seem to be fairly popular. 1)Drain water all water from the block and leave it empty (air can't freeze) 2) Anti-freeze via muffs method 3) Drain water from block and pour in anti-freeze via removing the t-stat hoses Then there is the added wrinkle of doing either anti-freeze method and then draining the anti-freeze from the block also. Idea behind this being again air can't freeze and any liquid left in the block would likely be straight anti-freeze. After searching here and seeing Pap's old experiment with freezing anti-freeze in a glass jar and how little water it took to get mixed with the AF for break the glass has me a little concerned. I'm leaning towards method #3 and then draining the block again, curious to hear some opinions.

2002 Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke... came with the boat I bought, previous owner warned me it was cold blooded but it ran fine during sea-trial so I bought the boat. First time out with it this weekend and took forever to start. Once I finally got it started it would idle but die everytime I hit the throttle. I could choke it and get it to rev up but as soon as I gave it throttle it would die. Got it back home and happened to pull the dip stick and it poured out oil/gas mixture out of the dipstick hole. Did I just severely flood it trying to get it running or do I have other issues?

I can tell you this... a 30 size convector is filled just about perfectly with 1000ft of wire and 100yds of 20lb mono. The difference in size between a 30 and 45 convector according to Okuma is 160yds of 20lb mono. So by those numbers you could say that 260yds of 20lb mono and 1000ft of wire should fill a 45 just about perfectly (theoretically).

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