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FishingFool34

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Everything posted by FishingFool34

  1. I figured it wasn't new to a lot of people, but I still see the occasional question about dipsey leader lengths on here and videos with ppl handlining in fish because they want to run long leaders behind their dipseys. I debated on changing to slide divers to be able to run longer leaders but I already have a bunch of dipsey divers so this saved me from having to purchase a bunch of new slide divers. Also slide diver setups still need to be stored on the rod which can be a pain sometimes.
  2. So I happened to see this technique on a YouTube video a couple weeks ago, not sure if it's news to ppl here or not. But I figured I'd give a quick review of my first run with it yesterday. So on my wire diver setups, I tied on 30ft (you could do longer if you wanted) of 65lb braid and then a 10ft flouro leader to the end of the wire. Then you attach red OR-16 heavy releases (ones with the pin in the middle) to the front and back of the dispey diver. You attach the dipsey to the braid (double wrap the clips and leave 8" or so of slack in between them) and then deploy the dipsey like normal and unclip it like an inline planer when you're bringing it in. I attached the braid on top of my 1000ft of wire so my reel was still calibrated correct I just zero it out once I clip on the dipsey and let out whatever amount of line I need. You still have all the benefits of a wire diver setup but now you can have as long of a leader as you want without the need to handline in fish. Also makes pre-rigging and storing dipsey setups easier as you don't need to have the dipsey attached to the rod anymore. Only managed to get 1 salmon on the dipsey yesterday but it tripped the dipsey just like normal, we removed it as it was coming in with no problems and landed the fish. Offshore no longer has the patent on the red clips so I bought a box of 10 knockoffs clips with rings for $12 on ebay and they worked fine. Only negative of the setup I can think of is with 40ft of line out my baits are prolly running a little higher then the dipsey but you can always compensate for that by setting the dipsey a couple feet deeper than you're targeting.
  3. I wouldn't use braid as backing on anything that I didn't plan on getting the backing wet on. Wire diver and down rigger setups will do just fine with mono backing. Once you get into leadcore and copper setups you will prolly want braid backing for most of those setups because the backing will see the water. On my 1/3/5 color setups I do mono, 200yds braid then the lead. Everything over 5 colors and 200+ copper I use full braid backing. I have been using KastKing braid for a couple years now with no issues, it's pretty stiff stuff and I wouldn't recommend it for a traditional fishing setup (ie spinning/baitcast reel) but it works well for trolling applications. It's also much cheaper than big name brands.
  4. Mine is not power tilt either and I have it mounted right on the transom of an aluminum boat very similar to your setup. I release the tilt and put a small piece of 2x4 between the bracket and the motor itself. Then I run a ratchet strap around the trailer bunk supports and the motor and crank it down. My thought process is the motor is now tilted up enough I don't worry about it hitting the ground, it can't bounce around with the strap, plus the 2x4 has a little give to it so it shouldn't break anything. Prolly not the best solution but has worked fine for me for over 2yrs now.
  5. Those are Black's releases and def one of the best releases out there. The small screw on the side is to adjust tension, if you're dragging fish around loosen up that screw and it will take less pressure to pop the release. Line twist is important too, I usually do 7 or so twists and then put it in the release. If you don't do enough twists you will not be able to preload the rod as line will just keep slipping through the release.
  6. The 2nd and 3rd zip files are unavailable for some reason but here are the pics from the first zip file to make it easier for ppl.
  7. I'm pretty sure Rick from Dreams Come True Charters out of Mexico was doing something along the lines of a learning charter. It was some classroom stuff followed by a couple hours on the boat actually using what he taught (Think I saw him advertise that on fb). But I can almost guarantee that any charter will gladly take you out, show you the ropes and answer any questions you have. I'm willing to bet you will get multiple responses to this post from charter guys on this site willing to do what you're looking for. What port you looking to go out of? There's charter from every corner of the lake on here.
  8. Yours must have been a Mag 10... which uses a completely different motor than the Mag 10a. The Mag 10a uses a cylinder shaped motor and they are not made anymore, the Mag 10 uses a much flatter motor which you can still get replacements for but they aren't cheap. If you can't fix the 10a motor yourself, sorry to say but you're gonna be out of luck. I went through this deal with the original riggers that came on my boat and ended up getting rid of the Mag 10a's and picking up some Mag 5HS. Much better retrieval rate and easier to find replacement parts.
  9. Yup, I saw your ad. You listed everything as a package and I only need one reel.
  10. Looking for 1 reel, size 30 or a size 45. Linecounter or not, doesn't matter. Would prefer a convector or Coldwater reel but will consider others as well. PM me
  11. You don't need to run a full 5' section of track. I run a 6" section for my riggers (I just wanted to be able to remove them easily). Then I run a 24" section further up for my triple trees and a single adjustable for my divers.
  12. use heavier downrigger weights... had same problem a few years ago, couldn't see them on my sonar past 50ft. I was running 10lb pancakes then, I switched to 14lb torpedoes and now can see them down past 100ft.
  13. I use 25ft of 30lb fluorocarbon for leader on my weighted steel/copper setups.
  14. lol there's so many companies that make them I did forget about Cannon you're right... regular price on Cannon 36" is $80 but they are on sale on ebay right for $68.
  15. I think he's asking about the tracks themselves... and to answer that, they all are good and basically universal. Bert's has the nice end stops that I like, but they are prolly the most expensive of the bunch. Poor Man's tracks are a little different design than the rest but also are the cheapest. You can't really go wrong with Berts, Cisco, Traxstech or Big Jon, haven't heard much about Poor Mans but they are an option as well. 36" Berts - $105 36" Cisco - $75 36" Big Jon - $85 36" Traxstech - $83 36" Poor Mans - $60
  16. I changed from a minn kota Powerdrive V2 (with no QD bracket) to a Terrova with a QD bracket last year and mounting holes were the same.
  17. 2018 Tohatsu 8hp 4 stroke motor, long shaft, tiler steer, manual start, manual tilt, no charging. Comes with a Control King remote throttle setup (not installed), and the 3.3 gallon factory tank with hose. Bought this brand new last summer has maybe 40hrs on it, runs flawless. Also comes with a 4 blade hi-thrust Tohatsu prop and the original 3 blade that was never used, I can also include a panther steering link to connect this to main motor for steering (FYI rod has been cut to fit my setup, but should work for someone looking to mount directly on the transom and connect to an outboard) Pickup only in the Utica/Rome area or we can arrange something in the Mexico/Oswego area on a weekend I am up there fishing. Selling because it's too small for the new boat. $1400
  18. Well I semi-apologize for my earlier comments... I still stand behind my minimum post count for posting for sale ads though. You gotta understand that this is a very active forum and we get lot of people who want to take advantage of that for the sole purpose of selling things. We already have members here that do nothing other than live in the classifieds buying/selling trying to make money off some of the good deals that pop up here. Not to mention this was atleast the 2nd ad this week that had no information or price and just included a single picture. So with that said, welcome to the forum and goodluck with your sale.
  19. 17p is in the ballpark for a prop on a 5.7... you could try a 19p but sounds like it could be something else wrong.
  20. Good thing I'm not a mod... this post would be deleted along with this person's account. There would also be a 20 post minimum before anyone could post in the classifieds section.
  21. Sure you can go longer if you want. My copper and LC setups don't have linecounters so I just make sure there is at minimum enough backing so the lead is underwater. 2 colors plus leader and atleast some backing puts me at close to 80ft in the water already.
  22. Enough backing to make sure all of the lead is in the water.
  23. Paypal offers that deal all the time also, which is exactly what I used when I bought mine. I don't remember exactly what their price was but regular price is like $850 for the X4D and I think Northwoods was in the $750 range + shipping.
  24. https://northwoodsoutlet.com/product/fish-hawk-x4d-system/ Their price is the best you will find online for a new setup. You have to call or email to get the price, basically because it's so low they cant advertise it.
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