FishingFool34

Few that I have are roughly 1 3/8” x 4”... found something similar at uline.com. 1.5”x6” but by time you buy the end caps it ends up being $1.25 a tube without shipping. For that price I can buy an Amish fly caddy and have a box with it too.

Part numbers?

I’m Looking for the plastic tubes to store pre rigged flies. I see Amish outfitter and dream weaver boxes that come with tubes, but I’m looking for the tubes only. Anyone know where to get just the tubes and caps?

I understand the added benefit of a 2nd tank, but I'm only running an 18ft boat so space is at a premium to begin with. I spend most of my fishing time on oneida lake for walleye and only make maybe 10 trips to ontario a year. I'm also very vigilant about the weather when I go out, being in such a small boat. I have alot of respect for Lake O and don't even attempt to go out in even remotely sketchy conditions.

We used to go out of Albany every mother’s day weekend. Never bought bait, we used sabiki rigs and jigged up our own herring. Always had best luck with live herring. We used baitrunner reels with a 2oz pyramid sinker on a slider, 30lb flouro leader to a 4/0 octopus hook. I believe they call this a “fish finder rig”. Toss it out and let it sit, once they pick it up let them run with it for a few seconds (reason for the baitrunner reels) and then set the hook! They are a blast to catch and really good to eat as well.

That's a good idea... simple small inline shutoff and would pretty much guarantee I wouldn't have any issues. Thanks!

With your setup you are definitely going to want to switch the primer ball to the OUT side of the F/W. But you could save some money and keep the F/W you have now and just install a 3-way shutoff valve after the F/W then primer balls to both motors and you would be all set. Your setup looks pretty easy to access so a manual ON/OFF valve shouldn't be an issue for you. Reason I want a 4 port F/W is because it doubles as a T letting me go 1 IN and 2 OUT, plus added benefit of the F/W itself.

Definitely a few different ways of doing it... I'm still going with my original plan though. Main tank IN to F/W separator with anti-siphon (check) valves on both OUTs, followed by individual primer balls to each motor. The 3 way valves with a shutoff is probably the most fool-proof way to do it, but you have to manually switch the fuel on/off. Where I want to put my stuff isn't the easiest place to get to so I'm trying to avoid that. With the check valves on the F/W and inside the primer balls, there shouldn't be any issues sucking air/fuel from which ever motor is off at the time. I'm still doing a little research but seems like my plan should be ok.

I read a few posts on other sites where guys that used the bulbs as anti-siphon (check) valves, had the kicker bulb sucked completely flat by the main motor. They ended up installing some kind of check valve before the bulb to avoid possibly breaking/splitting the bulb. Not to mention now there is air in the line up to the bulb that you would need to pump full of fuel before the kicker would start. I figure with a check at the F/W separator you wouldn't have that issue.

Won't that issue be solved by using anti-siphon valves on the outs of the F/W separator like I want to do? I'm trying to avoid having to manually open/close valves when switching between motors.

Never heard of discountmarinesupplies.com but they seem to have the best prices on what I need. They are associated with paypal so I'm pretty confident in ordering from them. Here's what I found...

That was just a brainstorming session, I plan on pricing stuff out tomorrow though. I will post what I find with part numbers and prices.

Panther (Marine Tech) makes an adjustable mounting bracket for kicker motors. https://www.cabelas.com/product/Marine-Tech-Outboard-Motor-Brackets/701688.uts?productVariantId=1215695&WT.tsrc=PPC&WT.mc_id=GoogleProductAds&WT.z_mc_id1=02924836&rid=20&ds_rl=1252079&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkbaJxrO_2gIVx1YNCh2Bxww2EAYYASABEgI0yvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

So it looks like alot of the F/W separators have 4 ports on them, 1-in and 1-out on each side. So I would just plug one of the IN ports and use both OUT ports? Also looks like the kicker uses 3/8" fuel which is the same as my main motor, so if I use anti-siphon fittings I shouldn't have to worry about sucking fuel out of the motor not in use. So my parts list is 1 F/W separator 1 primer ball hose kit (for kicker) 2 1/4 NPT 3/8" anti siphon fuel barbs (OUTS F/W separator) 1 1/4 NPT 3/8" standard fuel barb (IN F/W separator)

So there is a ton of info on google about this but it seems like there are multiple ways to do it. You can use a 'Y' fitting (not to be confused with a 'T' fitting) or use can use a 1 in 2 out water fuel separator. But some of the details are lacking, do I need a primer ball for the kicker? I only have the line that goes to the small tank that comes with it, will I need to order more line? The kicker is going to be a brand new 2018 Tohatsu 8hp four stroke just fyi.