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FishingFool34

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Everything posted by FishingFool34

  1. It will likely be a tight fit with 300' of WS on a 47 sealine, I had 300' of WS on a 45 size Okuma reel and ended up buying a 55 size okuma for that setup instead. As I wasn't comfortable with the amount of backing I had room for on the 45 size reel (don't forget you need a good amount of heavy leader on the front of the setup as well). I think the Daiwa 47s are slightly bigger than an Okuma 45 but I would say rule of thumb once you get to 300'+ your looking at a 55 size or similar reel. 10 colors of lead would be the most I would run on a 45 class reel. You could consider going with 30lb braid for backing, that combined with the slightly larger spool size on a 47 may let you comfortably fit that setup.
  2. A Minnkota with I-pilot is the class standard I would say as well. You will def want atleast a 24v, and atleast a 60" shaft. As others have said more power (aka 36v) and a longer shaft (72"+) will only help you in rougher conditions. You could consider matching your electronics to your TM too, Humminbird to Minnkota, Lowrance to Motorguide or Garmin to Garmin, as there additional features you get from matched units. I had a i-pilot Link connected to a Helix on my old boat and was able to have my tm follow contour lines on the map, travel to a specific selected spot on the map, program, save and view routes all on the sonar unit which was nice but prolly not 100% needed to fish. All the big 3 tm have similar main features, like auto-pilot and spotlock/anchor mode which are both most haves imo. Having the bow mount with autopilot and a kicker is a great combo, the bow mount AP does the steering while the kicker does the pushing. Personally my choice would be a Minnkota Terrova or Ulterra (Auto-deploy and stow the tm from the remote).
  3. FishingFool34

    Si-Tex

    I don't know of anyone using them on kickers, but I know several captains that use them on their main motors which they then connect to their kickers via a EZ steer bar. Seemed to work well, my only complaint would be they are on the loud side. If you're looking for a standalone kicker AP, I would recommend the Garmin Reactor 40.
  4. Part #166 it looks like https://www.fish307.com/cannon-optimum-optimum-ts-downrigger-parts/
  5. what year/make/model is this setup for?
  6. If I was fishing that far west this time of year, I would be looking for salmon. The few times I have fished out of Wilson/Olcott in May we would run a little west of Wilson until you see the line of boats and just got in line, did very well on salmon.
  7. Standard Horizon GX1400G
  8. Brown fishing has been hit or miss for us lately in Mexico. With the right wind the fishing is good, with the wrong wind the fishing is not so good. Seems like on the wrong wind days I see a good number of boats out significantly deeper. I'm assuming they were experiencing similar struggles with browns and switched gears and went out deep looking for lakers. I have some friends coming to visit soon and they want to come out and fish and I'd really like to get them on some fish. If you were in Mexico struggling to find the browns what would you do to change it up and go look for lakers. I know there's not really much structure around here so what are you looking for when it comes to finding lakers? Is it a certain depth this time of year or a temp?
  9. Just one of these tied to a rope that's tied to a cleat, Grab the fish by the mouth and tow them along side the boat once they start kicking just release the jaws. They are like $10 on amazon, easier than holding the fish along the side of the boat imo. I also use the same method to bleed out the few fish I do keep.
  10. Rubber coated net, minimal handling of the fish, back in the water ASAP and I'll go as far as towing the fish along side the boat for a minute or two to let it recover. I use the plastic clamping fish grips tied to a rope to tow them. I've had pretty good luck releasing that way. I release the majority of my fish as well.
  11. I have always just eye-balled it as far as distances go. One thing I usually do is have my deeper running lures on the inside board and shallower ones on the outside board. In theory your shallower outside lure should be able to pass over top of your deeper inside lure without snagging that line. Obviously with a fish on thats not always the case, or if you're running similar baits. In that case I will reel the inside board in closer to the boat and have whoever is on the rod for the outside board keep the rod high and reel in slowly to let the fish and board get more behind the boat before bringing it in.
  12. I agree 100% with this, which is why I paired my 93 with an airmar B60 thru-hull for 2D sonar and a Garmin GT54 transom mount for the side/down scan.
  13. Garmin 93sv has pre-loaded Lake-vu maps on it. I have one and the Lake O map is pretty good imo.
  14. Same here, something about a plastic drag washer and some concave washer orientation (There's a write up on it, on this site someplace). Once those issues were taken care of I haven't had any problems since. You would be fine with convectors as well. I run convectors on all of my Brown Trout setups without issue.
  15. Looking at the DSP ad, I don't think that is a copper setup fyi. My guess is that is a wire dipsey diver setup like the ones I linked above. I have never seen a copper setup with a twili tip (that's usually something reserved for wire dipsey diver setups), also they don't say how much "copper wire" is on the reel which is kind of an important thing to know. Checkout the clearh2otackle store on ebay or email them and they will pre-rig whatever you're looking for. https://www.ebay.com/sch/clearh2otackle/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Not hard to put your own setup together either, use the chart below to figure out the reel size and amount of backing you will need for the setup you're looking to make.
  16. I'm sure that would work fine, but personally I won't buy anything from DSP. I don't agree with their positions on a few things firearms related and therefore won't do business with them. If you want pre-rigged stuff checkout clearh2otackle on ebay. They sell a lot of pre-rigged gear and will custom spool any reel you buy from them as well. You could get the same prerigged combo that Dicks is selling for much cheaper too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184982323137?hash=item2b11ce3fc1:g:eOcAAOSwEtZg0jEc
  17. Like said above, wire to snap swivel directly to diver, then leader of your chosen length after diver to the lure. Keep in mind if your leader length after the diver is more than 6ft or so (depending on the size of your boat), you will likely have to hand line the fish in. There are ways around this but they require different rigging (ie. S-clip, slide divers, etc)
  18. I wouldn't mess with it at all, a 2021 with less than 20hrs should be running perfectly. I would be headed right back to where you bought it for a warranty claim. Don't risk messing with something that could end up getting your warranty voided!
  19. Is there a fuel/water separator in there someplace? I would want to run my kicker fuel line out of the filter rather than directly out of the tank. You can get a filter housing with a single in, dual outlet and not even have to use a 'T'. If you don't have one, they are pretty cheap (~$100) and good insurance against potentially having issues out on the water.
  20. I sent one to you yesterday as well? Send me a PM with your price on 2 of them shipped to 13440. Thanks
  21. I’d be interested in 2 of the rod holder, if you will split them up.
  22. I'm not sure if it will continue to sink with 50lb braid backing, I have heard that is the case when using the 19 strand torpedo wire as backing though. But I wouldn't want to try and attach wire to an inline board so I have never personally tried that method. If I wanted to go deeper I would have 400/450/500ft setups but personally I don't run anything longer than 300ft. I do alot of C&R and have found most fish won't survive after a fight on anything longer than 300 copper/WS. Not to mention it gets less and less enjoyable for the person reeling it in. That's just my opinion though.
  23. I never saw the need for counters on a leadcore/copper/WS reel, I always let out all the weighted line that's on the reel. The line is so thick you will never get an accurate number anyway. If I want to run a shallower setup, I use a 200 steel instead of a 300 or a 8 color instead of a 10. I run inline planer boards so I need to let all of the weighted line out so I can attach the boards to the braid backing.
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