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1lastweekend

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  1. 1lastweekend
    I have a few items I am looking to trade for some Angler's Pal rod holders. 1 TraxsTech fixed mount riser, 6"- TRADED 1 pair Big Jon downrigger rod holders with butterfly plate. These are the older "floating position" rod holders 1 pair RAM 10" tube rod holders, both with new T-handles- they tighten down good on the balls now... Looking for 10" SS Angler's Pal rod holders like in picture
  2. 1lastweekend
    Yup you're probably right...I did text him but the number is wrong so I guessed at the last digit, the one he posted has too many digits...Oh well time to look for another boat!
  3. 1lastweekend
    Sent another PM...
  4. 1lastweekend
    PM sent
  5. 1lastweekend
    Scott I'll take those 2 clamp on rod holders...Let me know when is good for me to pick them up. Are you still in Webster? Thanks Mike
  6. 1lastweekend
    I do it exactly like you do FF34...Drain all lake water out 1st then pull the manifold side hose and engine block side hose and fill until I see antifreeze coming out of the exhaust through the hub of the prop, and the brass plug hole on the side of the block and under the exh manifold.. This way I am sure that even if there's a little bit of water left in the block, its 95% antifreeze. Wicked Walleye I have never trusted using muffs to fill my engine block and exh manifold with AF, because a boat moving through the water forces raw water up through the leg with much more pressure than sitting still with muffs on. If I had to do it using antifreeze going up from the leg, I would definitely pull the thermostat as you did, but use a large bucket full of AF and run the prop in forward gear just above idle to stir up the AF. I would also fill from the top hoses into the exhaust manifold as a double check to make sure the system is full.
  7. 1lastweekend
    PM sent
  8. 1lastweekend
    Sent another PM...
  9. 1lastweekend
    PM sent
  10. 1lastweekend
    PM sent
  11. 1lastweekend
    Thanks I will have to get a few of those...That's the one piece I don't have yet.
  12. 1lastweekend
    Here's what I came up with, bought a Cannon terminal end kit, and clipped off the wire from the Chamberlain then threaded the rigger wire through the hole in the Chamberlain. One less variable...
  13. 1lastweekend
    That's a great idea, clipping the wire and running the DR cable through the space where the wire was...Thanks! I may try that with a rubber stop above the terminal end as you did...
  14. 1lastweekend
    Thanks all for the great feedback. I think I will just try a Chamberlain stacker on the port side rigger to remove 1 variable from the equation...But its good to know my original setup would work as well. Mike
  15. 1lastweekend
    I really like the performance of Chamberlain releases, and decided to try a couple inline with my riggers this year. On the port side I have to incorporate my FishHawk probe, and the pic below is what I think I will try. But I am concerned the wire clip on the Chamberlain could be the weak link. Anyone else run a setup like this, and how do you rig it if you do?
  16. 1lastweekend
    ok yeah i got confused because you responded to my post! I send the duckman a PM... Thanks, Mike
  17. 1lastweekend
    Ok I was interested in the riser, I just posted a pic of it above...I am looking for something to mount 2 rod holders and slide it into my Berts track for downrigger rod holders. Is that top plate adjustable or does it swivel? Thanks, Mike
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  19. 1lastweekend
    How tall is that riser? Will it fit in a Bert's track? Thanks
  20. 1lastweekend
    PM sent
  21. 1lastweekend
    ^^ X2. But throw the old points and condenser in a ziploc and put them in your boat just in case...If the Pertronix fails you can swap out those parts for the old ones and still get home...The flamethrower coil is what really made the difference in my boat.
  22. 1lastweekend
    I sent you a PM.
  23. 1lastweekend
    Check the deadrise of that Sea Nymph hull. If it's above 23-25 degrees, you will get a smoother ride at higher speeds, but will flop around more at trolling speeds. Google how to measure deadrise at the transom and up the hull if you're not sure. I have a 17' open bow fiberglass runabout I use as a fishing boat, and it has a variable deadrise stepped hull (angle gets less from back to front) its pretty deep in the back, and anything under 3 foot rollers I don't get pounded too bad...Anything bigger than that and I'm off the lake for safety's sake. I also agree with the posters above on having a backup plan- I usually fish out of Irondequoit Bay or Sodus Bay, so I have somewhere to go for bass or pan fish if Lake O is too rough.
  24. 1lastweekend
    Glad I read this thread...My fishing boat is compliant but I didn't know I needed a whistle when out in my kayak...I will have to get a couple for my son and I.
  25. 1lastweekend
    Got in a few hours last night, went 5 for 10 with 2 nice teenager kings...Throw in a couple of 6 pound salmon and a stray steelhead and you've got a couple happy kids in the boat. Not bad for 3 hours of fishing. Started out due east in 120 FOW running 50-75 feet down, had to get down to 80 or so to find that 44-48 degree water. All the hits were on silver and red NK's...No action on the dipseys. It seems like the smaller salmon are short hitting the spoons, or they run at them so much there's slack in the line and we miss the fish...
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