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Gowiththefloat

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  1. Gowiththefloat
    I've always been told (by people with more experience) that your motor should be at least 75% of the max hp rating or you will have trouble getting on a plane. Not sure if this applies here or if a motor with reduced weight will mitigate that. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  2. Gowiththefloat
    Look up 'VRO or premix' on iboats.net I had a mechanic suggest me to delete it. I think you need to make your own decision there's no right answer. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  3. Gowiththefloat
    There you go. Pulling out the VRO and going to premix is a very cheap fix and you end up with fewer parts that can fail in the future. I did my reading on the scream and fly blog... I think those guys are in the racing business and know their $#it. I doubt there are any issues if you follow the right steps to change it over. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  4. Gowiththefloat
    Fuel lines usually easy to deal with and so often the issue. If you fuel hoses are at all old I would certainly replacing the hoses and fuel filters, if filter is disposable crack it open and see if anything was in there. If you don't have a fuel water separator I would install one as well and drain and it monthly. It's like the first line of defense for crud and also helps save your motor from getting any water in. Not sure if your issue has anything to do with the VRO not working but I just converted mine from oil injected to premix as a protective measure after reading in a few places that they can fail and screw your motor. It literally costed me some time and $10 to convert it. Was Kind of fun to do actually. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  5. Gowiththefloat
    Found my answers. First you need to use a gas cap to seal off the air pressure coming from the crank case to the reservoir. Second you are supposed to remove the oil pump completely and replace with part 43534 plus o ring. I can post additional details if anyone is interested. Sent from my KFMAWI using Tapatalk
  6. Gowiththefloat
    The reservoir on my 135hp Mercury V6 cracked and I've decided to delete the oil injection. I've removed the electrical connections and bypassed the fuel line directly to the fuel pump. No issues there. I've seen videos where people are taking out a worm drive from the oil pump and not sure if this is necessary or do I just remove the supply hoses and let her keep pumping dry? Also there was one line supplying air pressure form the motor to the large oil reservoir in order I guess to push frwsh oil up to the small tank of the motor. Once I remove this hose from the large oil reservoir I imagine that air will continue to push through that hose. Can I / should I stop this air somehow or did the removal of the electrical connections delete this operation already? Otherwise should I just cut the line and Lett the air keep pushing through? Thanks in advance.. Hoping to get this done and be back on the water soon. Mechanics are hard to get a hold of right now and I think this is an easy DIY with a bit of know how. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  7. Gowiththefloat
    Thanks yes the trim tab could help. I know smaller hp tiller motors have a steering friction lever to stiffen up the steer. Was hoping this could be done on the main motor as well. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  8. Gowiththefloat
    At the wheel. But just to be clear I am not saying that their is play I'm just saying it turns quite freely. Much different than the last boat I had which was nearly difficult to steer. Yes it's cable steer. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  9. Gowiththefloat
    Hey guys. I have a 20 foot aluminum with an older Mercury 2 stroke outboard . I find the steering is very loose but not sure if this is typical. the very loose steering can allow the boat to get out of control fast if your hand slips on the wheel for even a half second. Is there a way to tighten it up.? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  10. Gowiththefloat
    One of you should post a video of cleaning for us carb newbies. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  11. Gowiththefloat
    The diagram above how I've done mine as well. When starting your motor you should be on setting 1 to select your main cranking battery. When you are putting around with your kicker for trolling and using your other electronics you go to setting 2 - the deep cycle house battery which is not meant for cranking the motor but intended to be drawn down and recharged regularly. This way you do not wear down your cranking battery. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  12. Gowiththefloat
    Beautiful rig Sent from my KFMAWI using Tapatalk
  13. Gowiththefloat
    The season is approaching fast and I am hoping to make some improvements on my ride. It's a 1990 princecraft super pro 196. Thinking of switching propellers. Anyone on here have knowledge on how to choose ? I used an online propeller selector and still end up with nearly 100 options and not enough direction. Motor is a 135 Mercury black Max. Thanks in advance Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
  14. Gowiththefloat
    Here's my final product. I wrapped my copper with rubber splice tape and also attached to the boom with the same. Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk I
  15. Gowiththefloat
    Nice. What size tube did you use? Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
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