Jager

Thank you everyone, for the insightful advice. Very much appreciated! Mike

Thinking of selling my 21’ WA with a 150 O/B and 9.9 Kicker that has served me well for 7 years on Lake O and then going bigger to maybe 28-30’. I have zero experience with I/B equipped boats. Do I stick with O/B or go I/B? What do the I/B guys like about them and what, if any, is the down side! Thanks very much! Mike

I have at least 2 dozen, possibly more of the old style. Never had an issue with the line counter position. One of the best reels I’ve ever used with exceptional drags! 😊

Up to 60 FOW, chute rigger and two braid slide divers. Any deeper, I switch the braid slide divers to wire slide divers. I do this for browns and kings.

When fishing alone for browns, I run my chute rigger and two braid slide divers. If the browns are deeper than 60’ I switch the braid sliders to wire sliders.

I’ll second that! I have 4 Saltist 30’s set up with 200’ of 50lb Braid backing and 1000’ of 7 strand wire, more than enough for running divers.

I have a pair of Tite Lok adjustable rod holders if interested. Thanks Mike

PM Sent

I’ll second that! Switched to size 5 Chinooks last year after several years of DW Deeper Divers (which work great too) and find them more accurate. With the weight on the #4 slot it gives a close 3:1 ratio with wire which, for mathematically challenged me, makes life smooth sailing! 😊

This! More often than not, I end up with a $hit show all tangled up. I stack with a Scotty cable clip and run it 10’ further than my lower rod and 15’ above and rarely encounter a problem. As others have already advised, spoons only!

Not trying to spend your hard earned $ but, since you have a kicker, you might want to consider one of the popular electronic throttle controllers. I too struggled with troll bags (21’ boat) and use them primarily when the water is very rough as it helps settle the boat in the waves. I set up a Trollmaster brand throttle controller on my kicker and it solved my trolling speed issues. I can fine tune my Troll speed all the way down to .8 mph. You don’t need to have kicker motor controls up front, just the small electronic module that is part of the Trollmaster, or I-Troll, etc. of your choice. It also makes life considerably easier if you have an EZ Steer or similar type connector rod between the main and the kicker so you can steer the boat in the usual fashion. Hope that helps in your decision making!

Does anyone use these Riggers or have you in the past and if so, are they of decent enough quality to handle up to 15lb weights for use on salmon? I’m considering a Manual Rigger as a 3rd for my boat, mainly for spring browns and kings in shallower water but space is limited and plan to use them with a gimbal style flush mount rod holder so I can easily remove them when not needed. Thank you!

Tekota 800 with 400 feet of 50# Power Pro will hold 500’ of 45# copper. Just set one up yesterday! [emoji2] Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Thank you fellas, appreciate the detailed advice! Time to get to work! [emoji4] Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

What are some productive techniques to target Brown trout in the summer now that the shallower locations seemed to have turned off? Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

30# 7 Strand Wire, 2’ section of 65# PowerPro, 50’ of 30# Fluorocarbon, bead, swivel. Leader material is Fluorocarbon, weight depends on target fish. With the diver on the #2 setting and a large #3 ring, you’ll get 3:1 dive ratio. I tested this with a Fish Hawk TD and it is very accurate. Join the piece of 65# braid to the wire and 30# Fluorocarbon with an Alberto Knot! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Great Thread guys, really learned some valuable info, thanks! [emoji2] Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

x2! [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app

Interested! Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United mobile app