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Jager

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Posts posted by Jager

  1. So between the trollmaster, itroll, and controlking, 
     
    Do these only allow you to set spot on the throttle and it holds it there? or will it maintain a speed? 
    example, going with current at a #4 setting, to maintain wanted trolling speed. If you turn against current would you need to amp up to a #6or#7 to get the desired speed or does it have a gps built in to get the desired speed. Hope that wasnt too wordy


    It is my understanding that you have to periodically make throttle adjustments in situations like a current or direction of troll change. I’m gathering that these units, at least in the case of the Trollmaster or Control King, they allow minute/fine throttle adjustments that you would not be able to achieve with just the tiller or helm throttle control.
    I’ve decided to go with the TM as I don’t need the additional programming features offered by the itroll. I just need precise throttle control and for that I don’t need to spend 1.5 x more on an itroll.


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  2. While we’re on the subject of copper, I tried putting 500’ of 45# copper on a Seagate 60. I used 50# PP backing and spooled on the equivalent of 75 passes of the level wind guide. By time I was done, the reel was well beyond capacity, so much so that the last 30-40’ of copper was very difficult to reel in. Any suggestions out there for a different reel better suited for a 500 and even a 550 and 600 copper?
    Thanks again!


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  3. Thanks for the feedback fellas! Here’s the deal, I’ve got copper pairs from 100’s up to 400’s then singles in 350, 450 and 500. Plus, LC pairs from 1-10 colors. I acquired 2 Saltist 50 LW and a Tekota 700 LW and am trying to figure out what to do with them! I also have 4 salmon Rigger Rods set up with Saltist 40’s so im set there as well! Also have 2 pair of wire diver rods so that base is covered!

    Was an impulse buy on those 50’s and the 700, good deal I couldn’t pass up! [emoji16]


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  4. I fish Lake George and Champlain often and yanking LC is by far, my most productive technique for lakers. I keep meaning to try it on Lake Ontario but I’m always getting distracted by the salmon and browns! I use mainly Sutton Flutter spoons, size 71 for lakes with a smelt forage base and 72’s or 38’s for lakes with Alewives. Tons of fun and the hits can be pretty exciting!! Can’t imagine what a hit from a King would feel like! [emoji2]


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  5. I think I’m going to switch to a mid band chirp transducer. 80-160khz at 600 watts. That’s 2x the power output of my current transducer. And a much better frequency range. Plus I can run it on traditional sonar at 80khz or 160khz if I don’t want chirp. Should be a big upgrade. 

    Jig, this is what I use on my GARMIN. It’s paired with a Medium CHIRP 80-135kHz transducer. For trolling I set it to straight 80kHz and it does a fantastic job. Took me a while to understand all of the features of this transducer but got it figured out. As Yankee states, CHIRP is good for the nice images but traditional frequencies work much better for trolling! IMG_5675.JPG


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  6. I think I’m going to switch to a mid band chirp transducer. 80-160khz at 600 watts. That’s 2x the power output of my current transducer. And a much better frequency range. Plus I can run it on traditional sonar at 80khz or 160khz if I don’t want chirp. Should be a big upgrade. 


    Jigstick, I run a GARMIN 942xs with a mid level CHIRP transducer 80-135 kHz. Started out using it in CHIRP mode only but as of late, use it mostly in the fixed 80kHz frequency only and it performs better when trolling. In addition, it picks up my Rigger weights at all depths. They aren’t nearly as solid and I lose them beyond 80’ down in CHIRP mode. Considering adding a 50/200 transducer since I’m only trolling Lake O.


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  7. I recently added the second keel and also added aluminum strapping to all the stress points to keep the hardware from pulling out of the foam material. So far, I’ve pulled 300 Coppers with them and they performed great! I use the small orange speed clips from Amish Outfitters and made a loop with 5 or 6 twists and snapped the braid on. Clips slide down the 500# Test Amish Spectra toe line very Nicely!
    Mike

    PS-Shout Out to Rich Nau from Praying Mantis Charters for recommending the Amish tow line! [emoji2]


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  8. I run my slide divers on wire and then splice in 30' of mono. After the swivel I run about a 4' flourocarbon lead for my low diver. If you go too long it can be difficult when using meat rigs. On my high diver I run a 15' flourocarbon lead the length of the rod. On my high diver I'm usually running spoons. I just switched to slide divers this year and love them. Good luck

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    Thanks Rich!! You always have the answer! [emoji2]


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  9. Had great luck with the BJ Deeper Divers in chartreuse. Ran them off of 30lb Braide straight to the Diver and a 12# Fluoro leader around 7’ long. That set up took more shots than any of the other rigs on the boat for both browns and spring kings. In about 20 FOW, we ran them 40’ out on the line counter which gave us about a 15’ Dive.
    Worked fantastic especially in dirty water!
    Mike


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