Great_Laker

Congrats on the new rig! When you replaced your floor, what did you use? I replaced mine in 2017 with 1/2" ply coated in epoxy but looking back should have used something closer to 3/4" to get a more stable platform, bit of a sag near the edges of the gunnel in two places.

Warm weather this weekend allowed me to prep, seal, and paint the transom and get it ready to mount the motor. Also installed splash well drains and put together a transom backer plate for the engine out of 1/4” aluminum to help distribute the load. Nothing left to do but repower. Getting close to brown trout season!

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2 Daiwa Sealine size 47 for sale, older model. $30 each. Two with leadcore are SOLD, the other two have 20 lb big game. Pick up near Ithaca.

Finished off the pre-motor wiring today and the NMEA backbone. Lots of zip ties and crawling on my back

I bet that turned out great! I considered it but like others mentioned, the transom is not sealed so the poured material would run through the aluminum frame on the inside of the boat. I also considered composite but that was 10x the cost of plywood and the reality is I won’t be keeping this boat forever.

Good advice! I bought new drain holes since I had to cut the other brass ones out to get the transom wood out. I sold my Yamaha kicker so no need to plan on that but I did cut a 1/4” piece of aluminum that I used as a backer plate previously to displace weight and I’ll be using that for the new outboard mounting holes. The splash well drain holes bottom out on the splash well aluminum so drilling the new hole will need to be very precise so water drains correctly

That’s exactly right, getting access to the other bolts requires you to take the splash well apart. Taking it apart was easy but putting it back together with 1/4 close-end rivets was not. I had to buy a pneumatic rivet gun to save my forearms. Never thought about stainless to aluminum galvanization, thanks for pointing that out! The surfaces are painted on all sides and all bolts/washers are covered in 5200 sealant but rubber or plastic washers seem easy enough to add. Hopefully I won’t need to worry about network failures with two lowrances both connected to the NMEA network and 2022 modern engines have warning lights on the key switch and governors which don’t allow you to easily damage the engine, but I agree it’s something to consider. I have a stand alone volt meter as well as both lowrances give you voltage so that should be covered. Putting the splash well drains in this weekend which seems easy to screw up if they are not drilled out correctly. Any tips on that process would be appreciated.

Single Honda 75 hp with troll controller

Getting the center console ready for controls with the new outboard on the way. Had to cover all the old gauge, key, and control holes. Used 1/4” black Starboard which was a really easy material to work with. Decided not to get new gauges and just use the Lowrance units for engine gauges as they connect with NMEA 2000 and display all the information you could need (e.g., rpm, mpg, trim, gas level). Saves quite a bit of money in rigging if you already have a Lowrance. Waterproof Blue Seas switch board was also added to replace original switches. Cleaning up the wiring harness and bus bars coming next.

Its been a great boat so far. Tall gunnels make it feel pretty safe in rollers and only weighing 1,100 lbs makes trailering and solo launching and retrieving easy. The center console is also perfect for trolling solo, can drive into chop and reel in at the same time. Wish the floors were aluminum though, already replaced them once.

I bought a 1987 Sea Nymph 19.5' center console in 2017 and have been slowly restoring the boat to fit my fishing style in Lake Ontario and the Finger Lakes. A lot of the ideas and restoration tips/tricks have come from others on this site and lots of Youtube videos, so i thought i should post some pictures and descriptions as i go along in the future to help others that may be restoring an old fishing boat with modern gear and rigging. This winter i decided to take the engines off the back of the boat (sell them) and replace the transom which was..... not fun. Previous owners used pressure treated plywood as the transom which caused corrosion and pitting of the aluminum and the only through-bolts between the outside aluminum, wood transom, and inside aluminum frame were the four engine bolts, all other hardware was corroded (non stainless steel) and was only screwed into the wood, not bolted. That caused the outside aluminum to warp as the wood rotted and the main engine and kicker pulled the transom away from the rest of the boat and opened up a space in the splashwell for water to leak into the hull. We needed the bucket of a Kubota tractor to lift the old water logged transom board out of the boat with eye bolts drilled into the wood since it had swollen and wouldn't budge. The inside aluminum skin had so many corrosion pit holes that i had to replace it. Local metal shop cut a new sheet of 1/8" aluminum. The transom was 1 3/4" so used marine plywood and cut 3/4" and two 1/2" pieces, glued and screwed together. Coated the wood in fiber glass epoxy resin and reinstalled in the boat this time with stainless steel bolts. Waiting for warmer weather and then will repaint the aluminum and splashwell and seal the seams with 5200. New outboard coming in March

Sold

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Selling my 2021 Yamaha 8 hp kicker 4 stroke. Bought it brand new from the dealer last February. Engine still has 2 years factory transferable warranty. Comes with itroll speed controller with Hunt mode. Awesome engine super quiet, only weighs 87 pounds, fuel efficient and pushes my 19.5’ boat under 1mph up to 7 mph. Manual start and trim. Has alternator to charge batteries while running. Only selling it because I bought a new main and no longer need a trolling engine. $2400 for engine and itroll or $2,200 without itroll, pick up near Ithaca NY.

https://www.amazon.com/Unexcelled-Fishing-Portable-Transducer-Bracket/dp/B08R7XHT2G/ref=asc_df_B08R7XHT2G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=509414665398&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15451286597812447314&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005570&hvtargid=pla-1220541776823&psc=1

How about one of these Scotty transducer mounts? https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Transducer-Mounting-Included-Mounts/dp/B0174X6UNQ/ref=asc_df_B0174X6UNQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312139903133&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15451286597812447314&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005570&hvtargid=pla-641875989352&psc=1

Agreed, it was very cold out there last night and on Monday. The fog bank on the lake last night and right now is thick, cold water and hot air sitting on top. I could not find water warmer than 48 degrees yesterday from shore to 150’. Surface was 48 bottom was 41. Lakers were the only thing willing. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Slow day today. Fished from 80’ out to 480’ only two steel head in 5 hours on a FF and a steelhead candy down 60’ and 120’ on riggers. Temp was down 85’ nearshore but offshore it was down 130’. Lots of bait and good marks from 90-120’ but wouldn’t fire. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

Hopefully the thermocline moves back up. Those fish at 100' are in bathwater right now. Better to fish for browns there than kings. South wind should help to move the water out by this weekend. If you cant get the stagers to hit, go deep. Good luck!

Quick outing solo tonight. Thermocline is 120’ down 70 degrees above that. Fished 100-150’ lots of marks but nothing would fire. Moved out to 400-460’ two steelhead right out of the gate. One on downrigger down 90’ and one on a 10 color core with a 3 Oz snap weight to get deeper. Speed was 2.9 at the ball in ~55 degree water. Move offshore if you are looking for a consistent bite. Kings are stacked in close but the bite isn’t there near Sandy. Sent from my iPhone using Lake Ontario United

kicker motor is on the other side of the main, never had an issue with interference

Front mounted connection is easy on easy off with a ball joint and much cheaper than the EZ-steer if your motors are both in-line. I use the iTroll for speed control, similar to the troll master but has a few extra settings. Good luck with your restoration.

Following up with this issue. Called Lowrance and they could not repair or replace transducer because it was 1 year out of warranty. I ended up using 3M 5200 on the mount and the backside of the transducer to seal the transducer back onto the mount and filled torn out threaded inserts with 5200 and inserted screws back in. It seems to be very sturdy but time will tell. Its not pretty but it works. Reminder to check your mounting screws on your total scan transducer boys, hopefully this was just a defect on mine.