sherman brown

14 minutes ago, cellar said:

What are the best options for wire diver reels?

I am looking to buy a couple more so that I have back ups.  

Was thinking Daiwa Saltist 30, but wanted to check opinions.

I fish Ontario and Cayuga Lake.

 

Thanks!

I don't know for sure if they are large enough for the wire you use but I have used the Okuma Convector 30 reels with mono on the bottom then a braid backing and 300' of 15# single strand wire on them. and if you are interested I have 4 like new reels for sale for 320.00 shipped to you.

12 minutes ago, 1lastweekend said:

Hi are any of those Penn reels lever drags?

no, sorry but they are star drags.

I also have 5 Daiwa sealine sg17lca reels in working order and 1 for spare parts. take all of them for 300.00 shipped to you. these old reels were working when I retired them but if you find any of them stops working the 1st 30 days I will refund your money and pay shipping back to me.

the best thing you can do if they are caught in water deeper than about 25' is to get a kit for deflating their air bladder. u-tube is your friend. watch videos on bleeding the air bladder on them. then after bleeding the air bladder you still want to revive them like stated above. you can try holding them with their faces facing into the current for a few minutes.

I have also thought about using a metal stringer with the locks on the clips and hook them through the front of their bottom lip then hang them over the side of your boat for a few minutes with the boat moving forward to revive them.

the most important thing for any fish released from deep water is letting the air out of the air bladder. you have to do this if you want them to survive.

10 hours ago, Sully said:

2 manual downriggers. $100 OBO. 

these should sell quickly! 100.00 for 2 manual riggers of any brand is an awesome deal if they are in good working order. and cannon makes a great manual rigger, I know because I have used this same rigger before going electric. these would be a great buy for anyone just getting into rigger fishing or anyone wanting to add to what they already have. you might want to edit and add condition and model.

I don't think anyone can find a better price on 2 riggers often. if it wasn't for the hassle of shipping I would buy these myself and put them on my small boat just to have a set of riggers on it.

I can meet halfway on the motor, but I can't run it for you and I will guarantee it to run when you get it home. it is one sweet 02 motor for sure. if you have any interest in it I can take a few pictures and text them to you.

you will not believe how good this older motor looks for its age. the story of why it wasn't used much at all is a long story. but it was bought by the son so he could speed time fishing with his dad. but not long after he bought it his dad died. he sold the boat but stored the motor. and after years of storage, he made the decision to sell it because he realized he wasn't ever going to use it. the rest of its story is too long to post here.

I have a 02 mercury 9.9 4 stroke tiller handle electric start 20' shaft that is in amazing shape for its year. it starts right up every time and purrs like a kitten. I want 1500.00 for it which is less than I have in it.

I have a 19p ss high five prop with the solid hub for mercury v6 and Mercruiser alpha 1 that is in great shape. 250.00 shipped.

I have the large and small Tru Trax dip nets with extendable handled 55.00 for the large and 45.00 for the small one but you pay shipping.

2 345 Penn GTI reels in great condition and 3 Penn 330 reels still like new 140.00 for the 345 and 130 for the 330 reels shipped.

I have 5 sealine sg17lca reels and 2 nonworking reels for parts and 1 reel that the handle shaft is loose inside the reel that is an easy repair for anyone who cat take the side off and get it back on 275.00 for the lot shipped.

2 Okuma convector 30d reels like new for 144.00 for both shipped. these are sold.

12 hours ago, rolmops said:

Another price drop. I need it gone. If it does not sell now, I will part it out

I really can't believe you still have this boat. my son has a 26' boat we use when we take vacations to Erie. if you didn't live so far away I would buy it for taking 2 of us fishing and not trailering the 26' 700 miles round trip to Geneva Ohio walleye fishing. if you feel like towing it close to IN in the near future I will buy it for the song and dance you are asking for it.

16 hours ago, rolmops said:

It looks like a treasure chest.

with the price of lures these days it calls for a treasure chest of sorts, LOL.

1 hour ago, Fly n Fish said:

Thanks for all the advice.  I did replace the starter but was still having the problem.  Had a mechanic look at it yesterday and he said the main wiring harness that connects to te engine was loose.  He re clamped it, cleaned the connections and it seems to have fixed the problem.  Drove it back from Sodus to Rochester this morning.  

GOOD DEAL!!! the simplest things can cause major problems and bad headaches.

6 hours ago, tim said:

Been looking for a tandem axle trailer for my 19 foot Islander . Want to be a little safer on the highway than a single axle. Why do most of the trailers I find online say no paperwork. Don’t really want to spend 6000 on a new trailer. 

some states don't require anything at all or just the old registration. TN doesn't have to have any plates, titles, or registration at all. I bought a trailer in Wi and needed to title it in In and was told i had to get a title from the seller. they got the book and it said all trailers in Wi had to be titled. and they wouldn't give me a title or plates. then I kept arguing it didn't need titled in Wi. then a new girl at the BMV was trying to help me so we were looking at the book and about a paragraph further it said trailers that weighed less than so much were exempt. 

check the state where the trailer is the check with the BMV in both states to find out what is required.

I believe those are called dredge weights and are the best DR weights I have ever used. I was using 12# pancake weights and last year I forgot to put them in our new to us boat. but the boat had 2 8# dredge weights and we had to use them. they worked awesome for us with much less blowback than the much heavier pancake weights.

I think it might be the kill switch for shifting into gear is out of adjustment. try bypassing it and see if it starts. I had trouble with mine because the shift cable had stretched and I had to have a new shift cable installed. took it to a marina and they adjusted the cable and after it started about 3 times it quit starting again. another thing that it could be is the shift box start switch may be bad or the shifter isn't aligning up right. hold the key to start and move the shift handle a bit forward and backward and see if your starter kicks in.

another thing you might try is going to amazon and search for a plastic drill bit. then find the size bit you plan to use.

are you able to get to the back so you can use washers and nuts? or are you planning to use stainless screws? if you are going to use screws you want the bit to be smaller, so the screws fit snug but not tight enough to cause them to lock up and twist off in the hole.

i have my tracks mounted with ss screws. i use 3 Connon retching rod holders per side plus another net holder on each side for our net. and have not had any of the screws get loose.

one trip i left my 2 downriggers at home and a great friend let me use his cannon electric riggers with track mounts that i used on my tracks for a week with nothing coming loose.

bottom line is if you use screws, they don't need to be super tight. but then again you don't want them so loose that they don't hold the mount solid. i never worried about drilling holes in my older boat as they will be covered even after the boat is sold or becomes a broken down boat.

i always just use a standard high speed bit but i drill on the slow side unless it gets really hard. but for what youare wanting to drill it should be pretty easy. 

that's a great price for an hds 8 and all the trimmings. but what generation and does it have gps? at that price anyone wanting a great fish finder at an affordable price that just about anyone can come up with may jump on it before you answer my questions.

i am still willing to buy the slide divers and the snubber for 35.00 plus shipping. you have a lot of interest in the jets so they should be easy to sell without the slide divers. message me and let me know one way or the other please.

2 hours ago, steelie1 said:

Take the whole lot for 50.00

the slide divers is the only things i would ever use. would you sell them separate? how much for them plus shipping?

21 hours ago, antney1 said:

Well a buddy of mine gave me a 4 blade 16 pitch to try out today and what a difference.. in a few seconds up on plane, 4200 wot… manual says 4400-4800 is the range so im pleased. This was with just myself, my gf and 1/4 tank of gas. Out tomorrow with a buddy thatll add another 230+ lbs of beef… well see how she does 

when i went to my 17p high five it didn't seem to matter at all if i was loaded with 5 of us plus our gear and our food cooler filled full of food soda and ice and our fish cooler with 2 bags of ice. it still jumped on plane and ran faster on Erie than we were able to run with rough water.

good luck with the 4 blade it should serve you very well. please do report back on running a load.

i checked out the site and i will be buying a few to try for walleye but i want to get a few custom spoons made up.

you might try the Luhr Jenson web site. if they don't have what you want try buying old ones for parts on the fishing forums. they are made by Luhr Jenson so that is your best chance of finding parts.

i tried to find Luhr Jenson website but didn't find them. i just don't know if you will ever find new parts. i would just start a wanted thread for dipsy divers wanted for parts.

traxstech makes the best one with a larger pulley on the end. check out at traxstech.com and search for pulley retriever. thes are more money but well worth every cent.

i have fished in a lot worse boats. your boat would be great on most days. just remember to slow down in rough water. and when traveling in rough water you may need enough power to keep the front up so you don't take to much water over the bow. i had a 21' cobia glass open bow boat and it was a wonderful big water boat and took very little water over the bow or sides. the worst was hitting the wavers from the side and they would splash up over the side of the boat and the wind would blow water over the side getting us very wet but not enough to worry about sinking or anything. with the center console you wont have much cover like my boat did so look forward  to taking a shower when you encounter rough water hitting the side of your boat. i have had my boat in 5' and 6' waves and we just ran slow at about 11 to 14 mph for a long ride in. my boat took the waves with little effort. a boat as big and deep as it is will take brough water if you dont try getting there in a hurry.

a lot of newer props have black plugs up front near the leading edge. these plugs can be removed or replaced with smaller plugs. this interrupts the flow of water to llet the prop turn faster on takeoff. if you look at the prop if it has the plugs, you can't miss them.

are you sure the hub wasn't bad and slipping? but anyway i believe the 21p is way too high. but the 18p should have improver your hole shot and raised your RPMs about 500 or 600. i have been a little more up on props ever since i started needing to know about pitch.

i started with an old 14' boat and 15 hp motor. my bil and his friend had an old house boat with a 50 hp Johnson on it. they had a falling out because the friend didn't want to help with the upkeep so they parted it out and i bought the 50 hp and put on my boat. it took off at almost full speed. but after blowing the reed valves twice i found out they had an 11p power prop on it on the hb. so on my boat without a tach it was over revving a lot and i didn't have a clue. i got rid of the motor.

later when i had an 80 hp mariner with a 19p 3 blade that was great on my 16' runabout. but then i went to an old heavy aluminum 18' Cherokee and loaded for Erie it took it forever to get on plane,. then i had a chance to buy an aluminum 15p prop for half price. it was the only prop he had left to fit my motor. i went ahead and bought it for a spare. a few trips later with the 19p i wanted to just try the 15p to make sure it worked for me. when i hit the throttle the boat jumped on plane and was running great. but it was over revving so i backed off on the throttle. but i learned so much about pitch. i thought about getting a 17p thinking it was just what i needed. but i liked the way the 15p was doing so i left it on and just backed off a little on top end.

but i still recommend going to a 17p 4 blade of your choice. a 4 blade is just a better all around prop than a 3 blade in my opinion. and don't feel alone in not knowing about the plugs they just started a few years ago. but you can google what are the vent holes in marine props and learn more. i was as dumb as they come about prop pitch when i started boating.

going down only 2" in pitch should not gain a 1000 RPMs. if your motor is already doing 5000 RPMs you don't want to drop pitch any more unless that 5000 is while your taking off. what is your RPKs after you get leveled off? a 19p prop is usually a catch all that dealers use so they still work but won't over tach. the 21 sounds liuke someone was dreaming of getting more speed. but when over pitched it hurts everything.

if the 5000 RPMs you mention is when you are taking off check to see if the prop has holes back all the way around it. or if it has plugs in the holes. these control the spin of the prop letting it spin faster if the plugs are removed and slower when the plugs are installed. when you are planed of your RPMs shout not exceed mercruiser recommended RPMs for that motor. and just guessing im thinking about 4800 max when leveled off. but knowing about those plugs or holes will tell me everything.

algae and barnacles on the bottom can make a difference but i don't believe that was your only problem. and only if you leave your boat in the water will the build up get real bad. what was your speed and RPMs with the 21p before the problem started?

my best advice without knowing more i would switch to a 17p 4 blade like a rev 4, this will greatly improve your hole shot and better handling in turns and rough water. dropping to a 17p will keep your RPMs close to right but you may lose 1 or 2 MPH on top end if you had a 3 blade that was what you needed. but i would guess going to the 4 blade 17p it will give you much better lift and should give you a few more MPH.

if the 18p prop has the plugs removed it lets water escape through the holes and makes it easier to turn and raises the RPMs which should give you a little better hole shot but maybe not help much when leveled off. please let us know about the holes and if they are plugged? using smaller plugs will also raise your RPMs on take off so just having plugs in them may not be the ones it needs to lower the RPMs on takeoff.

if it was my boat i would just switch to a revolution 4 blade 17p and be done with it. but there are many other good 4 blade props but i recommend the rev 4 in 17p. a 4 blade is harder to turn causing lower RPMs hence dropping to a 17p will cure that.