sherman brown

i have 5 of the older Daiwa sealine sga17lca reels that are working good now and have 2 extra that the counters stopped working that go with them. i will take 325.00 for all of them including shipping. i will also give you a 30 day warranty on the 5 working reels. if any of them quits working in the first 30 days i will pay return shipping and give you a 60.00 refund. i just went a different direction. i used these for walleye on Erie's central basin and caught nice walleye and a nice steelhead here and there.

just message me if you are interested in them. they have just been stored in my pole barn for a couple of years. i haven't tried to sell them yet.

i wouldn't go any less than 100 as you need space for ice and fish. i have had days when our 100 was full to the brim. now i only fiush walleye on Erie and still use the 100 with the door in the lid. but i think it also comes in a 1500. if you have room or planning to mount it on the back i would go with a 150.

I have 2 Penn 345 gti reels without counters in very good condition for 300.00 shipped included. these are great level wind reels. I used them for grouper fishing around bridge abutments. or I have a couple of smaller 330 gti reels for 225.00 shipped. if you're interested you can pm me. these were also used for live bait fishing around bridge abutments.

9 hours ago, thumbburn said:

I don’t have a track system…. Looking to bolt/screw it on my 2x6 across my back…The fixed is a more solid fix for what I’m looking to do….. thanks

you don't have to have tracks because  these have the threaded holes for the thumb screws than you use to tighten them down in the tracks. you can remove these screws and go to the next size smaller screws and bolt them from the top. or you can come through the bottem with the same size bolts and use the threaded base as your nuts as they are already threaded.

i bought 2 of the traxstech holders used off eBay that is like new but much cheaper for my nets.

18 hours ago, tom r said:

My name is Tom. I’m looking for somebody to fish with out in Lake Ontario trolling for salmon steelhead and the Browns I have the boat I have the equipment and the time. Having a little knowledge on trolling out in Lake, Ontario would be a plus. My port would be point breeze. Open to other areas to you. Text me at area code 610 730-4186. Thank you.

 I don't think this offer can be beat. practically just be there to help get things ready fish for the day for a few dollars in gas then do what needs done when you come in and go home with no worries.

anyone wanting to fish the big pond and learn plus catching fish at the same time.

9 hours ago, theotherwomen said:

I lost the nylon ring which is connected to the weight retriever line. The downrigger wire cable runs through it.

Contacted Scotty they will not sell just the ring.

Has anyone come up with a good alternative?

Thank you for all your help.

i switched to the traxstech retriever years ago and never looked back. it uses a roller wheel with a little extra room. i still had some trouble getting my auto stop beads to pass through it but couldn't find anything that worked as smooth as these.

all the reports I've been reading on another sight are giving good reports. if you find the right depth you will get good fish and not as many dinks. but if your not in the right depth you catch mostly dinks and farm animals. but these reports are coming out of the south side of the lake in the central basin. it seems some are getting a few fish as shallow as 55' but others are doing better in 58' to 68'. hope this helps in your search.

i cant say for sure on heavy wire but i put braid backing then 300' of 15# wire on a Okuma convector 30 with plenty of 30# power pro backing.

that's like getting 2 for the price of 1. if i did my downriggers off my tracks i would jump on these for this price. good luck with your sale.

1 hour ago, FishingFool34 said:

I am not 100% sure the kicker has a charging system, I assumed it did as the specs on a 15hp Pro-kicker state it has a 12amp alternator. I run alot of other electronics, Garmin 93sv, Fishawk Xd4, 2 Digitroll 10 riggers, Garmin TR-1 kicker autopilot, VHF radio. My old kicker was a 2004 9.9 Yamaha, i don't recall what it had for an alternator but I always saw 13v+ while it was running even with all my electronics on. I don't think it's possible to get this model kicker without a charging system, which makes me think there is an issue with the my motor.

you could be right about there being a problem with the charging system. but you have a lot of stuff going for a 12 amp charger to keep the battery charged. and it could just be it doesn't reach the full 12 amps when idling. you need a good volt tester and not just a test light then shut everything off and test your battery to see what volts it has. then start your kicker and at idle see what you have. now have someone rev the kicker to a higher RPM and see what your getting. I have a volt meter on my old Black and Decker charger that makes it simple to check the voltage in my batteries. have you compared the voltage output rating on your old motors voltage output rating? it could just be as simple as your older motor having a higher output than the 12 amps on this motor. 

if you want to know for sure take it to a dealer and have them check to see if it is charging and at what output at idle and at a higher RPM. I'm still not convinced 12 amps is enough to run everything and still charge the battery. but you do need to know for sure one way or the other and that's by testing it yourself or having a dealer or marina that can just hook it to their machine and test it.

have you tried running your motor with everything off and just seeing what the voltage at your battery is? I used 2 batteries in my old boat with a Perco battery switch so I could switch which battery i wanted to use. then if the battery was too low to start my motor I would just switch to using the other one. but do not use both batteries to start your motor if one of them is low. ni learned this the hard way when I had the switch set on both and it was cranking very slow. with the starter dragging I just took it in and paid for a new starter to be installed. but when I still had the same problem i started switching to one battery at a time and it started great on 1 battery but would hardly crank the motor over with the other one. and using them both the bad battery was drawing the good batter down making me think the starter was bad. bought new batteries and the problem was solved.

are you sure the motor has a charging system? What else are you running off the battery? the motor shouldn't drain the battery at all. but do you know the amp output of the kicker? are the other items pulling more amps than the kicker puts out?

I may have a few 40 and 30 but I'll check the next time I go down to my pole barn.

another big factor is not only the weight but the type of weight you use. I have used 12# and 13# pancake weights for a few years. but last summer we used 8# dredge weights and had less blowback than with the pancake weights. then I found a guy who sells the dredge weights at a great price. so I bought 10# weights last fall to try this summer. if anyone wants his info just pm me and I'll gladly give you his website.

13 hours ago, Jm1984 said:

I think you mean 4 strokes have less torque than a 2 stroke of the same HP.  Which means that you have to typically drop 2 pitches in prop.

 

HP is the same between a 2 and 4 stroke, it’s measured at the prop shaft.

I fully understand that but if he replaces a 175HP 2 stroke with a 150HP 4 stroke he is losing 25HP any way you look at it. I didn't say he would lose HP with the same HP motor. I said if he goes to a 150HP he will lose 25HP and gain weight over the 2 stroke. but I could be wrong on the weight because he has more HP with the 2 stroke and it might be a little heavier than a 150HP 4 stroke.

I really have never been happy with an underpowered boat. I would look for a 150HP or up to the max of the boat. later you will regret going lower than 150HP but I like to go as large as I can afford as long as the max of the boat isn't broken.

one thing to remember the 150HP 4 stroke is less HP with more weight than the 2 stroke. but a 150HP propped right will serve you very well.

back when I fished Lake Michigan for salmon it depended on what was working. I ran anywhere from 10' in deeper water and I have run as much as 100' when they were shallow. but most times I ran 10' to 30' and did well.

now I just fish Erie for eyes and I run 25' to 30' and catch fish.

that's one heck of a deal for whoever gets it. it does look like it's been used very little. so I would think it's as good as new. now price a new one and 300.00 won't even be close. I would buy it myself but the boat we bought came with 2 older cannons that still do the job. then I have 2 Big Jon pro tournament riggers that are still almost new even tho they are a few yrs old they have seen very little use fishing Erie for 1 week each year for eyes that came off my old boat.

I bought a center console with a 150 HP Merc that was still a great motor for years until some good friends put something in the gas tank that caused it to lock up. I had to clean the separator filter a couple of times on my way back in but whatever it was did its job before I made it back in. hindsight is 20 20 and the first time I had to clean the filter and saw it had something in the gas I should have got a tow and not kept running the motor.

if a saltwater motor is cleaned and flushed out like it should be they are as good as any other motor.

if you weren't so far away I would buy it for a spare. I have an old 115 HP Johnson that I think is an 85 but could be older. it's one of the best motors I have ever owned. it runs so smooth and sweet and has no problem getting my 17' rinker glass boat on plane and on down the lake.

someone should jump on this motor for only 1400.00. the controls new are around 400.00 alone.

that is a great price on that cooler. if I didn't already have a 100 quart that I have from my smaller boat that was totaled I would buy it myself. we have room for it now but the 100 quart is in like new condition and I hate to just quit using it.

these are great with the door in the lid. just open it to put the fish in the cooler. ice lasts so much longer when not opening the whole lid.

i sent a second message.

if I was still looking for a boat i would jump on this one. it is a get-in-and-go boat and looks to be in great condition. if the transom and floors are in good condition it is well worth what you're asking.

I bought an 89 Sylvan 26' bare boat that has a few small issues but is still in very good condition, and we paid 7900.00 for it. this boat is much larger and looks great in the pictures, and comes with everything to get started but the tackle for 7000.00 is a steal.

6 hours ago, jlogger said:

Thanks for the reply, I have one coming already. I will keep these in mind as possible back ups though. Are you in Fair Haven often? I fish out of Port Bay and could always pick one up in Fair Haven if I opt to keep a back up.

for 20 bucks how can you go wrong? you can smoke a prop any day anywhere. having a spare can save a trip or the money to buy one at full price. I don't boat anytime without having a spare prop.

15 minutes ago, pdsalmon said:

 

Sherman, 

Thanks for the advice, used the winch for the first time today and 

worked great. Did not even hesitate to pull the boat on. I did get the lt4000.

Thanks again,

Dan

getting the lt4000 just has a little more power which ni believe you didn't really need but it doesn't hurt anything, it just cost a few bucks more. but if it gives you peace of mind it's well worth the extra money. good luck, great fishing, and have a great season.