sherman brown

15 minutes ago, pdsalmon said:

 

Sherman, 

Thanks for the advice, used the winch for the first time today and 

worked great. Did not even hesitate to pull the boat on. I did get the lt4000.

Thanks again,

Dan

getting the lt4000 just has a little more power which ni believe you didn't really need but it doesn't hurt anything, it just cost a few bucks more. but if it gives you peace of mind it's well worth the extra money. good luck, great fishing, and have a great season.

another pm sent.

2 hours ago, Car-Lee514 said:

Ok, I will upsize my swivels on the line connection end to make sure I don’t have a problem.  Thanks

 

Still not sure about the black and red fixed cheater clips that “troubles” sells on here.  I’m still a little worried they will catch on that connection point as they are designed to grip on the line as they slide down?

 

I will probably be sticking with free sliders this trip anyway to try to stay up in the silvers depth range.

I don't know a lot about running sliders. but if they are hanging up on your knots why not try other knots, I have had great luck with the uni-to-uni knot. another small knot that has worked great for me when splicing lines is the old blood knot. and if I'm using braid I will always add a couple of twists in the line so the braid doesn't slip.

2 hours ago, pdsalmon said:

One more quick question, are you using the cable on the winch?

If so, have you any trouble with the cable pinching and not

working well?

. 

I haven't had any real trouble. but it's best to keep the cable from getting loops in it. and I only spool off just what I need to reach the bow eye which is usually only about 10' or less for me. now on some shallow ramps, it does take a little more. but even if it tangled it would all be right on top. I have had a loop in the cable when bringing the boat up when the cable gets tight it it never gave me any trouble. 1 am 72 and in poor health. I couldn't even think about going boating without my electric wince.

the 1st time I used an electric wince my oldest son and I were at Brookville Lake camping.  and my wife and I were there for the next week. so my son left with my boat still tied up at the dock. and I had to load it by myself on a steep ramp. I had to stop 2 different times and rest for about 15 minutes each time. my heart just couldn't take it.

but before I launched again I drove down to Cincy and bought an electric winch or my boating would have ended yrs ago. I started with boat trailer winches but I would have to stop and winch the boat back down as it would get slack from the boat rocking on the trailer. but I finally read about the load-holding brake on the Super winch lt3000 winch. now I do have an Lt5000 that I bought new off eBay but right now I don't need to use it but it does feel good to know I have it if the lt3000 ever goes bad.

now I do have a couple of other trailer winches but they are still Super Winch just a different type of winch. I am planning on using one on my new to me 17' Rinker with the 115 HP Johnson but haven't mounted it yet. I forget just what they are but I believe they are S-series winches. the cost up around 600.00 new but I bought mine like new but used for a lot less money. 

I am sorry for the long message. the bottom line is once you use the S-series or the LT series you will never go back to a manual.

I used one on my trailer for my 21' cobia that had roller bunks on top of the regular bunks. but on the 26' it has bunks on it and works great. I had an 87 28' sea ray with twin 4.3 Mercruiser with bunks on the trailer and it pulled up just fine. you could go up to an lt4000 but I just don't think you need it. i started using electric over 15 yrs ago. but the lt3000 with the load-holding brake is what I switched to and I trust it not to slip and let the boat slide back on the trailer. but I still hook up a safety chain just in case. if it would make you feel better with the extra power then it's not going to hurt to get the lt400. but I would make sure to let off the power once the trailer bow roller is firmly in place on the boat.

I use the superwinch lt3000 for our 26' sylvan and it doesn't even strain. but i watch to make sure the boat is pulled up to tight. these winches have a double braking system and are load-holding winches. but I get mine off eBay.

if you don't find anything you might check out Cisco tracks with a web search then go to hodgesmarine.com for cannon ratcheting holders.

I did use pancake 13# weights. we bought a boat that came with 8# dredge weights. they were even better about blowback than the 13# pancake weights. so i figured if the 8# was so good I would try some 10# weights. I found a great place to get them at redskyoutdoorgear.com and they have great dredge weights at reasonable prices. but I believe you can use these in 10# and do as good or even better with the 10# dredge-type weights than the 12# shark weights your looking for.

On 3/18/2023 at 3:07 PM, tyler.woodard04 said:

I'm looking to add some heavy (65lb) braid to the end of my wire line so I can break the rods down for easier storage on my small boat and not kink the wire or let it get curly. Is there a recommended knot or termination to do this? 

I went to eBay and bought some micro barrel swivels small enough to work and then attached it with the haywire twist knot then attached my line with the improved clinch knot with about 4 extra twists to prevent it from slipping. I had braid backing that I attached the same then attached braid on top and used a fluro leader attached to the end of my braid with a double uni knot.

have you tried going to a lower pitch 4 or 5 blade prop? I had a 21' cobia glass boat with a 350 315 HP and a 19p 3 blade that had a problem getting up when loaded for Erie. I tried a 19p high five 5 blade which was awesome getting up. then I got a great buy on a 17p high 5 and it was a dream prop. we now have a 26' sylvan with a 350 280 HP with an elephant ear prop but not sure about the pitch but I think it is maybe a 16p. if you message me I will check the pitch and let you know.

but if you try going 2 pitches lower than what you have now with a high 5 it will give you so much more power on bottom end that it will just amaze you. when I switched to the 19p high 5 it was like I went to another boat.

all my props were bought on eBay used for less than half of what a new one cost. but both these boats had Mercruiser outdrives.

do you have outdrives or is yours an inboard? if you have an inboard the only thing that may help is trying a lower pitch prop. the only other thing is to check and see if the 5.7 can be replaced with a larger stronger engine. but I would check on having the 5.7 built with a lot more power.

it's no wonder it sold. that is a great price for any 15hp 4 stroke. but I didn't see the year of the motor.

9 hours ago, Glenn -Brazee said:

Anyone able to upload the pics of items for sale? 

didn't have a problem myself. just clicked on the tab then when the tab came up in the right corner of my screen i clicked on open.

On 5/10/2023 at 7:18 AM, Bad Habit said:

The ignition on my Yamaha 9.9 stopped working. I’m thinking it’s a bad kill switch or neutral switch. Does anyone know how to bypass these to test and temporarily fix it? I would like to get through this week until I can do a permanent fix. I'm also looking for someone that can do the fix for me if needed. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I'm in the Rochester area. Thanks.

 

check the main fuse located under the cowling.

you might try editing your post and just delete what you want.

On 4/30/2023 at 3:36 PM, Jedi said:

Looking to buy a new prop for the exiting prop  #48 78118 A40 P17

I/O 5.0 Mercruiser 95 Penn yan

is that a 15x17 or 14.5x17p ? And what is the inside diameter?

Thinking about going steel prop (3blades)if I can find one in the $300 range 🤣 If not going with a good aluminum prop. 

lastly what hub kit would be needed. If one is needed ?

Thank You in advance.

I don't know if this helps or not but I put a 13 1/4X17p high five prop on my mercruiser in a 21' Cobia boat. it had so much better hole shot handled so much better in rough water and in turnes. i would never put a 3 blade prop back on my boat. they are SS and cost over 500.00 new but you can usually find a used one in great like new condition for under 300.00 on eBay. I have been buying from them for the last 20 years and all the props I have bought used were as described. if anything you buy isn't as described you can file a dispute and get your money back.

but even if you don't want the high five you can probably find the prop you want for a lot less money getting a used prop off eBay.

10 hours ago, Craig729 said:

I just replaced mine and still having issues, I got mine at a boat place, it was 300, on Amazon they were 129, the one I got has a plastic insert, I don't care for it much, but it is way cheaper if you have a spun hub again., I just bought an old Sea Ray with a 3.0 Mercury cruiser in it. After about an hour of running fine the boat would only run at a low speed, when I would try to accelerate it would sound like something slipped and it would stop moving forward, then I would go slow no problem, try to accelerate, done the same thing. I replaced the Hub and prop, took it out and it was doing good and after an hour or so, done the same thing again, it surely didn't spin the new hub or did it, is something slipping after warming up, I don't know a lot about boats, but I'm mechanically inclined and this does not make any sense. anyone have and good information. 

if your RPMs are going up but the boat isn't going faster it's a good bet the hub is bad. i can't think of any other reason that would account for this. I would think if it was the lower unit you could hear the gears grinding. the  1st thing I would do is put my spare prop on if I had one and see what it did. if you don't have a spare I would be getting one. but you can take it or ship it to a prop shop and have them check it and replace it if the hub is bad. if it has a flo torx hub kit you can tell if the corners are rounded off. if it's bad just get a new kit and replace the square insert.

i believe you can still get mounts at Cabelas. the last time i checked on a 4 pack of these holders they were much more than the 40.00 he is asking.

18 hours ago, prayingmantis said:

Thanks. Yeah the 5200 I know is a permanent thing. I just put in some new auto trim tabs in and had some 4200 still left from that. Thanks for the help. I'll probably get some silicone cause even the 4200 is tough to remove 

yeah, just silicone will last longer than the pump in most installations. i used it to block a couple of larger holes in my transom and it was still good and flexible after about 10 years.

4200 would work but a bit harder to remove. I would just use 100% silicone for that job. whatever you do don't use 5200 as it is more of a permanent application.

made mistake of not reading post correctly.

not that I'm aware of. do you have an outboard or outdrive? it's really easy if it's an outboard. they make several connector rods to connect an outboard to outboard. some are made with threads on the ends so you can cut them to the length if needed you can bend them for a better fit. just do a search for kicker steering kits. or you can check on eBay or Amazon. I even have a brand new Panther steering kit you can have for 22.00 plus shipping,

as for steering for an outdrive to the kicker is a little different. I use an EZ steer kit that has a connector that straps to the kicker and another one that bolts on the outdrive. you want to set the kicker straight and the outdrive straight then measure the distance between the connectors. my rod fully closed was about 1 1/2" short so I turned the clamp on the kicker just enough to fit. but i could have opened the shaft on the rod and matched it up. but i wanted to start with it closed. once you measure get a kit with the fully closed rod as close to that distance as possible without being to long to fit. as long as it's close you will be good to go.

it can be a little shorter but not longer. I use a Panther electric tilt I bought off FB marketplace for 300.00 and I already had the spacer that's also a Panther spacer. with a 3" spacer in front of it so when I tilt the kicker will tilt up and not hit the boat.

does your kicker have power tilt? if not you might think about getting the Panther electric tilt for it. with the EZ steer, you can tilt either motor or outdrive up with it still connected without any problems.

as for the motor, a Honda makes a great motor that should last for years. does it have electric start which will make it much easier to start than a rope start. but before you buy make sure it runs. you can use a set of muffs on a garden hose. you want to open the water all the way up just to make sure it gets enough water while running. it doesn't even come close to the pressure you get running down the lake. make sure water comes out of the pee hole in a good stream. if the stream is weak or not at all take a short piece of .65 to .95 weedeater line and work it in and out of the pee hole line with the motor running. if it stops and doesn't want to go in it's probably blocked. just keep hitting it with the line with the motor running and it should give. if it's open you will probably need a new impeller installed.

you should be able to get your serial number and get a Honda dealer to get the year for you.

tluc has 2 listed for 300 in great shape.

I've been using the Chamberline releases for a few years now and would never use any of the other types of releases on the market at this time. but i bought some of the stackers but never got around to actually using them but I did check them out dry fishing and will say I liked the way they are made. if I ever use Stakers you can bet the Chamberlain will be my first choice.

15 hours ago, greenhornet73 said:

Well I finally dropped my boat off to Precision Marine in Marietta last week and they are going to custom build a motor mount out of 1/2” aluminum to fit my transom.  Will be a little pricey but can’t wait to get it back and get back on the water soon. Will post pics for any others in the future with similar dilemmas of unique transoms with limited room for a kicker mount.  Thanks again everyone for taking the time to share your input.

I sure hope you have power tilt on your motor and they allow enough length for you to tilt the motor all the way up without hitting the boat.

we use a Panther power tilt unit I bought off FB marketplace with the 3" Panther spacer and the motor still comes into contact with the boat before it gets tilted all the way up. but it is high enough it's out of the water while running fast.

first, look at Cisco tracks as they are just as good as any but they cost much less. if you are going to use your riggers in the tracks it's best to bolt all the way through and use a backer even if it's just fender washers. get tracks as long as they will fit on your boat. it's much better to have too much tack than to be 2" too short. you can use your riggers on the back and ever have a net holder in front.