sherman brown

I don't know a lot about running sliders. but if they are hanging up on your knots why not try other knots, I have had great luck with the uni-to-uni knot. another small knot that has worked great for me when splicing lines is the old blood knot. and if I'm using braid I will always add a couple of twists in the line so the braid doesn't slip.

. I haven't had any real trouble. but it's best to keep the cable from getting loops in it. and I only spool off just what I need to reach the bow eye which is usually only about 10' or less for me. now on some shallow ramps, it does take a little more. but even if it tangled it would all be right on top. I have had a loop in the cable when bringing the boat up when the cable gets tight it it never gave me any trouble. 1 am 72 and in poor health. I couldn't even think about going boating without my electric wince. the 1st time I used an electric wince my oldest son and I were at Brookville Lake camping. and my wife and I were there for the next week. so my son left with my boat still tied up at the dock. and I had to load it by myself on a steep ramp. I had to stop 2 different times and rest for about 15 minutes each time. my heart just couldn't take it. but before I launched again I drove down to Cincy and bought an electric winch or my boating would have ended yrs ago. I started with boat trailer winches but I would have to stop and winch the boat back down as it would get slack from the boat rocking on the trailer. but I finally read about the load-holding brake on the Super winch lt3000 winch. now I do have an Lt5000 that I bought new off eBay but right now I don't need to use it but it does feel good to know I have it if the lt3000 ever goes bad. now I do have a couple of other trailer winches but they are still Super Winch just a different type of winch. I am planning on using one on my new to me 17' Rinker with the 115 HP Johnson but haven't mounted it yet. I forget just what they are but I believe they are S-series winches. the cost up around 600.00 new but I bought mine like new but used for a lot less money. I am sorry for the long message. the bottom line is once you use the S-series or the LT series you will never go back to a manual.

I used one on my trailer for my 21' cobia that had roller bunks on top of the regular bunks. but on the 26' it has bunks on it and works great. I had an 87 28' sea ray with twin 4.3 Mercruiser with bunks on the trailer and it pulled up just fine. you could go up to an lt4000 but I just don't think you need it. i started using electric over 15 yrs ago. but the lt3000 with the load-holding brake is what I switched to and I trust it not to slip and let the boat slide back on the trailer. but I still hook up a safety chain just in case. if it would make you feel better with the extra power then it's not going to hurt to get the lt400. but I would make sure to let off the power once the trailer bow roller is firmly in place on the boat.

I use the superwinch lt3000 for our 26' sylvan and it doesn't even strain. but i watch to make sure the boat is pulled up to tight. these winches have a double braking system and are load-holding winches. but I get mine off eBay.

if you don't find anything you might check out Cisco tracks with a web search then go to hodgesmarine.com for cannon ratcheting holders.

I did use pancake 13# weights. we bought a boat that came with 8# dredge weights. they were even better about blowback than the 13# pancake weights. so i figured if the 8# was so good I would try some 10# weights. I found a great place to get them at redskyoutdoorgear.com and they have great dredge weights at reasonable prices. but I believe you can use these in 10# and do as good or even better with the 10# dredge-type weights than the 12# shark weights your looking for.

have you tried going to a lower pitch 4 or 5 blade prop? I had a 21' cobia glass boat with a 350 315 HP and a 19p 3 blade that had a problem getting up when loaded for Erie. I tried a 19p high five 5 blade which was awesome getting up. then I got a great buy on a 17p high 5 and it was a dream prop. we now have a 26' sylvan with a 350 280 HP with an elephant ear prop but not sure about the pitch but I think it is maybe a 16p. if you message me I will check the pitch and let you know. but if you try going 2 pitches lower than what you have now with a high 5 it will give you so much more power on bottom end that it will just amaze you. when I switched to the 19p high 5 it was like I went to another boat. all my props were bought on eBay used for less than half of what a new one cost. but both these boats had Mercruiser outdrives. do you have outdrives or is yours an inboard? if you have an inboard the only thing that may help is trying a lower pitch prop. the only other thing is to check and see if the 5.7 can be replaced with a larger stronger engine. but I would check on having the 5.7 built with a lot more power.

didn't have a problem myself. just clicked on the tab then when the tab came up in the right corner of my screen i clicked on open.

check the main fuse located under the cowling.

I don't know if this helps or not but I put a 13 1/4X17p high five prop on my mercruiser in a 21' Cobia boat. it had so much better hole shot handled so much better in rough water and in turnes. i would never put a 3 blade prop back on my boat. they are SS and cost over 500.00 new but you can usually find a used one in great like new condition for under 300.00 on eBay. I have been buying from them for the last 20 years and all the props I have bought used were as described. if anything you buy isn't as described you can file a dispute and get your money back. but even if you don't want the high five you can probably find the prop you want for a lot less money getting a used prop off eBay.

if your RPMs are going up but the boat isn't going faster it's a good bet the hub is bad. i can't think of any other reason that would account for this. I would think if it was the lower unit you could hear the gears grinding. the 1st thing I would do is put my spare prop on if I had one and see what it did. if you don't have a spare I would be getting one. but you can take it or ship it to a prop shop and have them check it and replace it if the hub is bad. if it has a flo torx hub kit you can tell if the corners are rounded off. if it's bad just get a new kit and replace the square insert.

yeah, just silicone will last longer than the pump in most installations. i used it to block a couple of larger holes in my transom and it was still good and flexible after about 10 years.

4200 would work but a bit harder to remove. I would just use 100% silicone for that job. whatever you do don't use 5200 as it is more of a permanent application.

made mistake of not reading post correctly.

not that I'm aware of. do you have an outboard or outdrive? it's really easy if it's an outboard. they make several connector rods to connect an outboard to outboard. some are made with threads on the ends so you can cut them to the length if needed you can bend them for a better fit. just do a search for kicker steering kits. or you can check on eBay or Amazon. I even have a brand new Panther steering kit you can have for 22.00 plus shipping, as for steering for an outdrive to the kicker is a little different. I use an EZ steer kit that has a connector that straps to the kicker and another one that bolts on the outdrive. you want to set the kicker straight and the outdrive straight then measure the distance between the connectors. my rod fully closed was about 1 1/2" short so I turned the clamp on the kicker just enough to fit. but i could have opened the shaft on the rod and matched it up. but i wanted to start with it closed. once you measure get a kit with the fully closed rod as close to that distance as possible without being to long to fit. as long as it's close you will be good to go. it can be a little shorter but not longer. I use a Panther electric tilt I bought off FB marketplace for 300.00 and I already had the spacer that's also a Panther spacer. with a 3" spacer in front of it so when I tilt the kicker will tilt up and not hit the boat. does your kicker have power tilt? if not you might think about getting the Panther electric tilt for it. with the EZ steer, you can tilt either motor or outdrive up with it still connected without any problems. as for the motor, a Honda makes a great motor that should last for years. does it have electric start which will make it much easier to start than a rope start. but before you buy make sure it runs. you can use a set of muffs on a garden hose. you want to open the water all the way up just to make sure it gets enough water while running. it doesn't even come close to the pressure you get running down the lake. make sure water comes out of the pee hole in a good stream. if the stream is weak or not at all take a short piece of .65 to .95 weedeater line and work it in and out of the pee hole line with the motor running. if it stops and doesn't want to go in it's probably blocked. just keep hitting it with the line with the motor running and it should give. if it's open you will probably need a new impeller installed. you should be able to get your serial number and get a Honda dealer to get the year for you.

tluc has 2 listed for 300 in great shape.