sherman brown

I guess the best way would be to tilt the motor all the way up or at least high enough that it won't hit the ground and then attach a good transom saver and lower motor tight against it. but that's the right way. but i have been boating for about 45 yrs. now and never used one yet. but I have a brand new one i bought for my last boat and never used it. but I may use it with the boat I just bought if it will work on it. I just tilt them up and put the travel blocks in place and lower the motor down tight. on some of my older boats that didn't have power trim I used a 2x4 under the motor.

i started deer hunting at a late age around 30. i took the front sight of an old savage 16 auto that my brother found in a trash barrel with the barrel bent and replaced the front sight with a ground dawn thumb screw turned sideways. i attached a ml rear sight on it. the 2nd day of our gun season of my first hunt i killed a nice 8 pointer.

several with the 16 savage

a Mossburg 12 that i don't remember the number of

a 50 Cal cva kit gun muzzleloader

a 12 ga cva double barrel muzzleloader loaded with a 690-round ball with 90 grns of black powder

a 50 Cal cva double barrel

a white 50 muzzleloader

a 50 Cal Thompson center encore that i used for many yrs.

a 70# Hoyt bow

a2001 mercury grand marquis. my brother n law died in TN just an hr. after I returned from tn. my wife was already there. i took off in a hurry to get there. at night. was flying around curves and was about halfway around a steep curve and a herd of 20 or so deer ran right out in front of me and stopped. i took out 3 before i could get stopped. all 3 ended up in the ditch on the right side. I thought about loading them up and cleaning them but decided i was just to darn tired. it was only about 5 miles to go so i went to the sheriff's office and made a report for my insurance. then went on home. my wife's uncle came upon a guy loading them in the back of his truck. so, they didn't go to waste.

I believe Dreamweaver divers only come in one size at fishusa.com. as far as colors I now just use black lite bite slide divers. but black is always good. but when i was using the deeper diver i liked to mix it up a little. i liked to use a purple diver and lure together and green diver with a green lure. but i never really paid enough attention to my catch rate to say if it worked or not.

18 hours ago, The force said:

Thanks Todd, that picture is great. I haven’t run Dipseys since being able to afford riggers… I suppose I should watch a few videos. 
 

I checked out the track systems, look super nice but I’m not sure I can justify $1500+ in rod holders…how often does a guy actually move location along the gunnel?  Angle and rod direction adjustment I can see being important but not sure on the lateral movement… however I suppose the track is not the expensive part. Need to get some time on the water and ponder this. 

the cisco tracks are about the best prices i found. if your running riggers you would probably only run 2 divers off each side. but you need a 24" section for each 2 holders you plan on using. if you plan to run more than 2 just get longer tracks. i use cannon ratcheting holders and they work fantastic for walleye. but for salmon they shood do as good as on walleye. the great thing is when a fish hits you don't have to lean out over the side to fight the rod out. just grab the rod and lift and the holder ratchets to the vertical position then you can lift the rod out. I have a place where I found by searching the net where the single axis is 84.00 each. I think it's hodgesmarine.com. for less than 600.00 you should be able to set up 2 diver rods on each side.

you can post wanted open seat and give day and location and how far you are willing to drive. just remember fishing and running a boat isn't cheap. so be willing to share the cost.

I used manual riggers for about 30+ yrs. then i was on eBay and had a little money. but 2 sellers of big jon was having a price war and I got 2 of the tournament models with auto stop. but with the 13# weights the auto stops didn't last long. rather than fighting getting then working i just do it by hand for 500.00. then they went back up some. so, I contacted one of them and got 2 more for 525.00. but I sold them and just use 2. i use the 12# pancake weights now. but this last week i used what i think was only 8# fish weights and they didn't blow back much farther than the heavier pancake weights.

after i switched to electric i kicked my behind for not trying them sooner. if you keep your eyes open you can find a pair of good electrics for 500.00 or less.

1 hour ago, Todd in NY said:

This is my 22ft Crestliner Sabre. The dual rod holders on the gunwales are for dipsy driver rods or whatever. The vertical triple rod holders are for inline boards, then there is a dual rod holder on the stern between the downriggers that I use for a flat line (folded down in this pic).

 

I troll for salmon, trout and walleye with this boat, and I wouldn't change the setup. This is my 3rd Lake Ontario trolling boat, and this is as close to perfect as I can get without spending a fortune on rod holders.

 

Click on the picture to enlarge it

 

for me i think he has the diver holder's way to forward for my liking but to each their own. i only run 2 riggers one off each corner. then i placed tracks on the boat and got cannon ratcheting holders. i have 3 on each side for divers. then i have an extra holder forward on the track next to the net holders on each side. but i like my holders as far back as they will go without getting in the way of the rigger or attaching the line to the release. but that is the way i like them. and it's just another choice. just do what works for you and you'll be fine.

3 hours ago, Brian S said:

Sherman, the current prop is a 3 blade 13X19P aluminum. I am unsure of the model but I'm assuming it is a Mercury prop. Max RPM for the 150 4S is 5800. I wish I knew what I was getting currently but it is difficult to get it to plane out regardless of where the motor is trimmed, especially in any kind of chop. That is what my primary complaint is.

 

I guess I'll have to take it for a ride on a smaller lake when it is flat to try and figure out the current max RPM's. As far as hole shot, it seems pretty meh, to me. Bare in mind I came from a world of super charged jet skis before I got into fishing so my experience is subject to that.

 

I attached a couple pictures of the motor trimmed all the way down on the trailer. Does the height of the anticavitation plate to the bottom of the hull look correct? Thanks again.

I'm not really the guy to ask but to me it looks pretty good from what I can see in the pictures. if it was me the least I would try is a 17p but if you really want to improve your hole shot and handling in rough water with more lift and less blow outs in turns a 4 or 5 blade in 17p would be in my future if at all possible. but if you really don't want to invest in ss there are some nice 4 blade aluminum props you can get. I took a quick look on eBay at 17p 4 blade props, and I seen some great prices on ss and aluminum. there was one used ss 17p for as little as 225.00 but I never checked it out. but there were plenty others for more money. if you could find a good used revolution 4 that you could swing it would be great. just make sure you don't order a LH rotation. good luck and maybe someone with better knowledge can tell you more on cavitation height.

it would really help to know more about the prop you have now. what pitch it is? what if any complaints you have with it? do you get a good hole shot with it? what rpm's will it run at wot? what is your max rpm for your motor?

you may want to think about going to a 4 or even a 5-blade prop. and don't rule out going to a ss prop as you can get on eBay and check out the used prop you're looking for. I went to high five props yrs. ago while fishing Erie and loaded with 4 a full tank of gas and all our gear then a fish cooler food cooler downrigger weights she just didn't want to plane off with the 3 blade 19p that came on the boat. I went to a 19p high five, and she jumped on plane handled rough water like a champ and hung tight in turns.  but later I went to a 17p for more rpms. now it comes out of the hole like a dragster. but the high five props in like new condition off eBay cost me 250.00 or less for over 600.00 new. but ss will pay for itself over time. things that will ding aluminum will only bounce of ss. and with ss I have repaired many of them over the yrs. by using a 2x4 backing and a ball peen hammer. I've used a file to smooth out rough edges without removing enough metal to harm balance.,

how much for tester with shipping and some instructions on using the tester? would need shipped to muncie in 47302.

if you even turn the motor over with a dry pump after setting for some time it can do severe damage to the impeller. the impeller blades stick to the shaft causing them to tear or tear parts off the leading edges of the blades.

I had an old sea ray with a MerCruiser out drive that was overheating. I replaced the impeller, but she still overheated. I tore it back down and put another new impeller in. but she was still overheating. I was lost for what to do next. then I took it down and cleaned the water passage all the way from outside the hull to the motor line. but it still was overheating. I knew a charter capt that we had chartered out a couple of times that lived fairly close that said he did mechanic work. so, I gave him a call and asked would he try to fix my boat. I gave him all the details about the things I had done. he said sometimes when a propeller went bad it would deform the housing then asked if I had replaced the old one. and I had not so I tore it down and put the new impeller on and a new wear plate and a new housing. went for another test run and she set at 175 and was good to go.

if it was electrical i don't think it would start back up and run. if an electrical item goes bad it's usually all or nothing.

what I'm thinking is if it has a fuel water separator that hasn't been changed lately it could very easily be stopped up.

it's pretty simple here in indiana. all we need is a bill of sale. then we have to get a police check just to make sure it doesn't have any numbers. then we take the bill of sale and the police check to the BMV and they send in to the state to get new numbers. the state issues new numbers which has to be stamped on a plate and mounted to the trailer. then we get another police check to make sure the new numbers are on the trailer in an acceptable manner. then back to the BMV and register the trailer and apply for a title.

the cva paramount in 45 caliber is the ultimate mz, but the price keeps most people from buying it. and with the accuracy of other cva models at much more affordable prices why spend the money? I have one of the accura v2 50 caliber that is just great. it has the easy removable breach plugs which makes it one of the best to clean.

but then i seen the accura v2 nitride 45 extra length barrel I just had to have one for 425.00 on sale. I bought the power belt elr 45 285 grn bullets and have been shooting the best groups ever. i would recommend either gun for the price. and the cva of today is not the cva of yesterday. the company was bought out and it had a complete change over in quality rifles.

On 6/27/2022 at 1:48 PM, Rusty said:

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i'll take lot 1. how do you want paid? i can pay friends on pay pal and it won't cost you anything. or i can mail you the payment. i will need these shipped.

you can get the igloo 150 qt cooler for 129.00 at amazon and they have a 120 qt or 100 qt at a lower price.

how about i take it for 20.00 shipped. i don't really need it at this time but may need it later.

yes you want to make sure the plug is lined up with the unit. then plug it in making sure it is all the way in then tighten it down. i have never had a trouble hooking the transducer up except not getting it plugged all the way in.

if i lived a little closer i would buy it. but i live in the mid-east part of Indiana. 1500.00 sounds fair to me.

if the choke isn't opening all the way it will suck way to much gas in the motor. it could be as simple as adjusting the choke. with the motor cold turn the key on if it has electric choke. then open the gas far enough to close choke and hold it there. now start adjusting the choke until it opens then adjust it back slowly until it closes then stop. now you will have the choke working when it's cold and should open as it warms up. also you want to make sure the wires are hooked up to the carb. i bought my last carb off eBay for my MerCruiser 5.7

they make an ez-steer bracket for i/o to outboard. but you need to measure the distance between the back of the motor and outdrive so you can order the length rod you need. i have an old rod and outboard hook ups but don't have the i/o bracket. and offhand i don't remember the length. they adjust from the short length to the extended length. just make sure it's right. it needs to extend when you trim the kicker.

if you're using a regular fuel line with a bulb and if it's very old, they have an inner layer that tends to separate and after the motor runs for a little bit the inner lining will collapse shutting off fuel flow. once the motor dies the inner lining opens back up. my first repair would be to replace the fuel line and bulb with a new one unless it's been replaced recently.

6 hours ago, Shakemsam said:

Try it on a different fuel supply before you do anything else. If nothing changes, clean the carb.

have you checked the bulb on the gas line when the Motor dies to see if the bulb is still firm?

sounds like the needle valve may be sticking not letting enough gas in the bowl to keep the motor running but when it dies the bowl refills.

did you use a backing under the wire to keep the wire from slipping on the spool? i had a problem with some reels with braid.  spooled reels without backing and went fishing on erie.  had all kinds of trouble reeling in fish. kept tightening tbhe drag until it wouldn't tighten any more. sent the reels to tuna toms for repair. thats when i was told my problem was the line slipping on the spools. he installed pins in the spools to tie my line to and replaced the drag washers with carbon washers. never had the problem again. now i just use a mono backing.

i use ande pink line on my riggers.