sherman brown

i started deer hunting at a late age around 30. i took the front sight of an old savage 16 auto that my brother found in a trash barrel with the barrel bent and replaced the front sight with a ground dawn thumb screw turned sideways. i attached a ml rear sight on it. the 2nd day of our gun season of my first hunt i killed a nice 8 pointer. several with the 16 savage a Mossburg 12 that i don't remember the number of a 50 Cal cva kit gun muzzleloader a 12 ga cva double barrel muzzleloader loaded with a 690-round ball with 90 grns of black powder a 50 Cal cva double barrel a white 50 muzzleloader a 50 Cal Thompson center encore that i used for many yrs. a 70# Hoyt bow a2001 mercury grand marquis. my brother n law died in TN just an hr. after I returned from tn. my wife was already there. i took off in a hurry to get there. at night. was flying around curves and was about halfway around a steep curve and a herd of 20 or so deer ran right out in front of me and stopped. i took out 3 before i could get stopped. all 3 ended up in the ditch on the right side. I thought about loading them up and cleaning them but decided i was just to darn tired. it was only about 5 miles to go so i went to the sheriff's office and made a report for my insurance. then went on home. my wife's uncle came upon a guy loading them in the back of his truck. so, they didn't go to waste.

I believe Dreamweaver divers only come in one size at fishusa.com. as far as colors I now just use black lite bite slide divers. but black is always good. but when i was using the deeper diver i liked to mix it up a little. i liked to use a purple diver and lure together and green diver with a green lure. but i never really paid enough attention to my catch rate to say if it worked or not.

the cisco tracks are about the best prices i found. if your running riggers you would probably only run 2 divers off each side. but you need a 24" section for each 2 holders you plan on using. if you plan to run more than 2 just get longer tracks. i use cannon ratcheting holders and they work fantastic for walleye. but for salmon they shood do as good as on walleye. the great thing is when a fish hits you don't have to lean out over the side to fight the rod out. just grab the rod and lift and the holder ratchets to the vertical position then you can lift the rod out. I have a place where I found by searching the net where the single axis is 84.00 each. I think it's hodgesmarine.com. for less than 600.00 you should be able to set up 2 diver rods on each side. you can post wanted open seat and give day and location and how far you are willing to drive. just remember fishing and running a boat isn't cheap. so be willing to share the cost.

for me i think he has the diver holder's way to forward for my liking but to each their own. i only run 2 riggers one off each corner. then i placed tracks on the boat and got cannon ratcheting holders. i have 3 on each side for divers. then i have an extra holder forward on the track next to the net holders on each side. but i like my holders as far back as they will go without getting in the way of the rigger or attaching the line to the release. but that is the way i like them. and it's just another choice. just do what works for you and you'll be fine.

I'm not really the guy to ask but to me it looks pretty good from what I can see in the pictures. if it was me the least I would try is a 17p but if you really want to improve your hole shot and handling in rough water with more lift and less blow outs in turns a 4 or 5 blade in 17p would be in my future if at all possible. but if you really don't want to invest in ss there are some nice 4 blade aluminum props you can get. I took a quick look on eBay at 17p 4 blade props, and I seen some great prices on ss and aluminum. there was one used ss 17p for as little as 225.00 but I never checked it out. but there were plenty others for more money. if you could find a good used revolution 4 that you could swing it would be great. just make sure you don't order a LH rotation. good luck and maybe someone with better knowledge can tell you more on cavitation height.

it would really help to know more about the prop you have now. what pitch it is? what if any complaints you have with it? do you get a good hole shot with it? what rpm's will it run at wot? what is your max rpm for your motor? you may want to think about going to a 4 or even a 5-blade prop. and don't rule out going to a ss prop as you can get on eBay and check out the used prop you're looking for. I went to high five props yrs. ago while fishing Erie and loaded with 4 a full tank of gas and all our gear then a fish cooler food cooler downrigger weights she just didn't want to plane off with the 3 blade 19p that came on the boat. I went to a 19p high five, and she jumped on plane handled rough water like a champ and hung tight in turns. but later I went to a 17p for more rpms. now it comes out of the hole like a dragster. but the high five props in like new condition off eBay cost me 250.00 or less for over 600.00 new. but ss will pay for itself over time. things that will ding aluminum will only bounce of ss. and with ss I have repaired many of them over the yrs. by using a 2x4 backing and a ball peen hammer. I've used a file to smooth out rough edges without removing enough metal to harm balance.,

if you even turn the motor over with a dry pump after setting for some time it can do severe damage to the impeller. the impeller blades stick to the shaft causing them to tear or tear parts off the leading edges of the blades. I had an old sea ray with a MerCruiser out drive that was overheating. I replaced the impeller, but she still overheated. I tore it back down and put another new impeller in. but she was still overheating. I was lost for what to do next. then I took it down and cleaned the water passage all the way from outside the hull to the motor line. but it still was overheating. I knew a charter capt that we had chartered out a couple of times that lived fairly close that said he did mechanic work. so, I gave him a call and asked would he try to fix my boat. I gave him all the details about the things I had done. he said sometimes when a propeller went bad it would deform the housing then asked if I had replaced the old one. and I had not so I tore it down and put the new impeller on and a new wear plate and a new housing. went for another test run and she set at 175 and was good to go.

if it was electrical i don't think it would start back up and run. if an electrical item goes bad it's usually all or nothing. what I'm thinking is if it has a fuel water separator that hasn't been changed lately it could very easily be stopped up.

it's pretty simple here in indiana. all we need is a bill of sale. then we have to get a police check just to make sure it doesn't have any numbers. then we take the bill of sale and the police check to the BMV and they send in to the state to get new numbers. the state issues new numbers which has to be stamped on a plate and mounted to the trailer. then we get another police check to make sure the new numbers are on the trailer in an acceptable manner. then back to the BMV and register the trailer and apply for a title.

how about i take it for 20.00 shipped. i don't really need it at this time but may need it later.

if i lived a little closer i would buy it. but i live in the mid-east part of Indiana. 1500.00 sounds fair to me.