sherman brown

are you sure the line is laced up right through the eyes? have you tried turning the clicker off to see if it helps?

16 hours ago, Seabass73 said:

Thank you all for the suggestions, these are my third set of bags I started with 28' s then 36' s and finally got my speeds where they need to be with the 48' s.  I was unaware of how the pivot point can be a factor with control.  Originally I had them anchored just in front of the windshield and the end of the bags were almost even with the stern.  I did some testing last season with the tail rope lengths trying to keep the bags tight to the boat.  I also tried anchoring them to the bow and having them run a little under the boat and just past the drivers seat.  If I'm understanding the pivot point theory I have to have them anchored at that point on the boat.  

you want to have them tied off to the front/side cleats then they should be back so the back of the bags are within a couple of feet from the back of the boat then the back of the bags tied off to the boat short enough that they don't drift away from the boat. they do affect boat handling just a little and at very slow speeds they may affect it a bit more. 1.8 to 2.0 is the slowest i have used them and had no problems with control that was noticeable.

 500.00 would be a great price for just a 10" hds without the structure scan. but you should send him a message and see if he will give you a price on just the hds 10.

14 minutes ago, Steve.e said:

I had steering issues with my 19" islander using 2 bags also. They were running about even with front chairs. The boat would sway right and left continually. I lengthened the ropes so they now run even with the rear cleats and use a shorter rope on the rear loop of the bags tied to rear cleats to keep them tight to the hull. Boat tracks perfectly now.

this is the way i run my bags if i'm running 1 bag or 2 on my 23' cobia. but its very seldom i run 1 bag. i troll with the wind and need 2 bags to slow me down. i tie off to the front cleat and have the rope set where the back of the bag reaches my rear cleat then the back must be tied off. i usually just tie the back to the base on my rod holders.

yes, it has a surge brake actuator for sure. have you tried backing it up a grade to test and see if the brakes are actually working? is there any brake lines going from the actuator to the hubs? that new of a trailer should still have the hardware but the brake pads could be worn out and not working.

I've had a few convectors for a while. and they are great reels. but when i went to update my old daiwa sg17lca reels I bought 4 of the cold water reels. i haven't actually used the cold water reels yet. but they feel much better and I think they are much smoother than the convectors. and so far they are well worth the extra money. I bought mine off eBay at a good price.

On 3/3/2021 at 3:58 PM, Bad_Influence said:

My boards pull so hard if I had a mast mount all the way forward I would have to stand on the Gunnels, and lean out to grab the line every time. Seems like it would be a **** setting lines and almost dangerous with any chop. To each his own...

you get something like traxstech pully retriever or just a line with a cleat on the end that attaches to the board line to pull it to you to attach your lines.

I really don't see a need for bags with the trolling motor unless you're just using it for steering while using the main motor to troll.

i don't know anything about Henderson Bay. but if you find the fish 30' or deeper you might want 2 reels spooled with about 300' of mono backing then fill the reels full of 30# or 40# power pro braid making sure to fill each reel the same. you want to get 2 Dreamweaver deeper divers from fishusa.com. the Dreamweaver is the same size as a dipsy with the ring on it, but it doesn't have a ring to mess with. set these on a 1.5 setting left and right. the one set to the right should pull to the right and the left diver should pull to the left. add about a 6' or 7' fluro 15# test leader. you can use the same dive curve as a dipsy and be close. or you can just figure about a 1 to 3 dive curve. for every 3' of line out the diver dives close to 1'. now with the arm set in the diver not so tight it doesn't trip. with the clicker on let out enough line to reach the depth you want to fish. put them in the back holder horizontal to the water. then put out your other lines.

if nothing happens with the divers after about 30 to 45 minutes reel up tight to the diver and pull hard to release the diver. reel it in to check for small fish. if you have nothing start over again going about 20' less line out. walleye will strike up better than down. if that doesn't help try going deeper. it just adds 2 lines to your spread. i have been using 3 divers per side on erie with great success. i also run 1 downrigger per side that catches some of our biggest fish. but just starting out 1 per side will work.

On 12/3/2021 at 12:23 PM, pukingdog said:

I agree, that's why I use powerbelt sabot bullets for my back up shots. Way easier to load. Not as accurate, but close enough for shots under 60 yards, which is all i'm ever going to get where I usually hunt. 

I use the new 285 aero tip elr power belt bullets and they shoot better than any sabot I've ever fired. I use 150 grs of 777 pellets with 777 primes. I've shot as many as 15 shots without cleaning the barrel without having a lot of trouble pushing the bullet down. however, when I shoot for accuracy, I shoot 3 shot groups then clean it if I plan on shooting another group.

16 hours ago, TyeeTanic said:

 

A 12 lb weight on a rigger has about 40 ft to 50 ft of blowback, when you try and hit 100ft to 120 ft deep.

(So you need 150 ft of line out to get 100 ft down).

 

How much blowback you think a 7 oz (little more than half pound weight) weight will have? Answer ... tonnes, you'll have a tough time reaching 100 ft without the right diver on it to assist.

i can reach 65' deep with a 2 oz weight with 65# braid and 245' of line out. i would think with a 7 oz weight it wouldn't be that hard to target 80' to 100'. i know for no more than it would cost i would be willing to give them a try.

yes, you're going to get blowback with a 7 oz diver. but with 7 oz of weight and the design of the diver it's going to dive a lot deeper than the 65' i get with a stock 2 oz weight with the small ring.

just try one with the 7 oz weight with the large ring and go to 100' of water at trolling speed and let out line slowly until you start bumping bottom (or not) and see if it's a tool that will replace wire for guys that's having so much trouble running wire. braid is cheap compared to wire and it doesn't kink like wire.

I'm not trying to say it's a better option than wire. I don't know for a fact that it will reach 100' but it is something to thank about.

the slide diver with the 7 oz conversion kit with the large ring is just another tool to get deep with braid. good luck with your tests.

5 hours ago, Vladislav said:

I don't mean to start an argument but I agree with Mr 580 said. I watched several videos about the slide diver and they actually turned me off. Not because it does not work, I am sure it does, but because you have to store them on the line with the rod after learning to properly rig/use them. They are not plug-n-play. For 18ft aluminum boat with limited to none storage space, I just don't see it. I usually take something like 10-16 rods with me every trip depending on the time of the season.

 

We had a pretty good season in 2021 for a newbie on just regular braid and wire dipsy, leadcore, weighted steel etc, and we did alright without any slide divers, ~5-6ft leader behind the dipsy and 8-10ft long meat rig behind a big flasher or 10ft leader and flasher/spin doctor + fly. I don't see any need so far in the slide diver - to me this is just another toy. Definitely a very magnificent toy but not necessary. 

but you don't have to use the slide part of the lite bite slide diver. just use a swivel and hook it to the front arm then tie a 7' leader to an O-ring and lace it through the back of the diver and get the 7oz weight kit and use it instead of the 2 oz weight to get deep.

what's the price on your motor? i know it's not free, LOL.

2 hours ago, Sk8man said:

Slide divers are a whole different matter as they are usually run in the upper part of the water column and excel at that in terms of stealth etc. but for running deeper Deep Divers are the way to go. Slide divers don't offer much if any advantage in that regard.

yeah, but the weight's what gets the diver down so why wouldn't the 7 oz weight kit you can get for the slide diver with the large ring should get it deep.

i'll still never understand if you want to get deep why you guys don't try the 7 oz slide diver with braid. i can get to 65' with 65# braid and a standard ring and weight, and thats as deep as i want to fish or i would try the heavier weight. in don't use the slide feature of the diver. i just add my leader to the back of the diver.

1 hour ago, Hounds said:

I was wondering about cutting the kinks and re 'tying'.  Use shrink wrap?    You think the kinks are usually from line twisting or not enough tension when originally spooled?  So far, I've used wire maybe 6 trips. Not TOO much problems, but more to learn for sure.  

Thanks all. Appreciated.    Merry Xmas. 

I've only used wire twice for walleye on Erie for walleye and the only time I came close to getting a kink was from not enough tension when letting line out. if I didn't keep my thumb in contact with the wire when letting the line out the spool would get slack and when the slack got tight the wire would overlap and cause a kink. it doesn't matter so much if the wire is spooled a little loose as long as you keep tension on the wire when letting it out.

i use 15# wire for walleye and i have made a couple of splices in the wire using a micro swivel and shrink tubing. but you really need to slow your reel down when the splice goes through the rod eyes when letting it out.

if you want to get your diver deep and get away from wire switch to braid line and slide divers with the 7 oz weight kit. I may be wrong but i believe the 7 oz of weight will get the diver as deep if not deeper than wire.

you don't have to use the slide feature of a slide diver. you can rig a leader on the back and tie your main line to the front arm. that's what i do on my lite bite slide divers.

i usually add 2' just for flex on an outboard when turned all the way to the opposite side from the cable side of the boat.

on rough days the divers are set not to trip on waves. at these times it's almost impossible to get the divers to trip with mono. but this is where braid shines. I fish walleye on Erie and know a lot of fishermen and all of them use braid as their main line. I wouldn't dream of using mono for divers. if you want to get away from wire, go with non-stretch braid.

the boat is a 21' 86 cobia glass boat open bow. it came from the factory with a 228 hp 5.0 305 with a 4-barrel carb with a MerCruiser alpha 1 outdrive. i swapped out the 5.0 305 for a 5.7 350 315 hp. Michigan motors is still selling this same engine for 5989.00 just go to their web site click on marine engines then click on partial engine package then click on silver package then read all about it. it is a bolt in engine for replacing 86 and above 5.0 or 5.7 engines. before 86 and some 86 models will need the flywheel changed out. this is a Vortec engine with roller cam and lifters. the only thing that i would do is change the sparkplugs. i may have changed them out 1 time since new but I'm not sure it isn't on the original plugs.

i tried going to their site but got an error at michiganmotorz.com but did a search for Michigan motors and got to it that way.

I don't know the firing order. but it's a standard MerCruiser 5.7 marine motor. I'm sure it has the same firing order as any small block 350 chevy MerCruiser motor.

I'm 70 now and the boat is setting outside with the motor cover covering the motor. it's a major job for me to go down to the pole barn and get a ladder and climb into the boat. I'm sure if you have a standard MerCruiser 305 or 350 it will drop in and work for you.

I'm just guessing here but i doubt it would work. do they have the same electrical hook up? and i doubt the shifter length is the same on the 75 hp motor. but maybe someone with a little firsthand knowledge will chime in.

I just had the water separator oil and oil filter changed before our trip to Erie. they have about 40 hrs on them. most people change the oil and filter each season, but I just wanted you to be aware of the hrs on them. if you have questions or concerns you can call me at 931-seven zero four 7244,

it is a long drive for you, but you won't be disappointed. you will more than get your monies worth. as I have no control over how the motor is used, I can only give a DOA warranty on it. but if the motor doesn't run as described when you get it installed, I'll make it right. 

it has a marine electric fuel pump that doesn't pump without oil pressure. I had a toggle switch installed to bypass this feature. so, if the boat sets for a week or longer I'll trip the toggle switch and fill the carb for the first time then she's good to go. the toggle switch is spring loaded and kicks off when released. then I pump the gas one time and give it just a little throttle and she fires right up and runs sweet. I have it idled down to 600 rps and she is still smooth at idle. but you can set the idle up to 750 or set it where you want it. after I set the idle down, I started using a set of 36" trolling bags and ran her a little higher for trolling, I just never idles her back up.

I bought the boat back from the insurance company so i would have a spare for the boat we bought to replace it with. but it has a almost new long block from Michigan motors. I'm 70 now and that motor should last the rest of my life. so instead of storing it I decided to just sell it.

if you need a plywood motor cover that's made with treated plywood and covered in Cabela's premium carpet with the rubber mat off the old cover under the carpet top, I'm sure we can work something out.

SORRY for the long post.

On 12/15/2021 at 3:00 PM, The Net said:

Take a picture wondering the height if would fit in my boat with a high manifold mine is 5.7 rodchester carb,and realy I live a long way,tex4138223548

Sent from my SM-J737U using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

i'll try to get you a picture in the next few days. but i still have the motor in the boat and i've kind of stopped messing with it until spring. i would say the intake is a medium rise and not a high rise. michigan motors removed a 228 hp 305 and replaced it with this 350 without any issues. took the boat in one morning and was home that evening. i bought the silver package so i used my accessories. but this motor now comes ready to set in and play.