sherman brown

If your young and heathy and feel like cranking a 10# or a 12# or heavier weight all day then get a good set of manual riggers for your boat and you';ll be good to go. i used manual riggers for about 35 yrs and got by just fine. electric riggers are just a better way to bring the weight up. cannon and Penn both use the same method for lowering the ball. just pull back on the handle and it releases the wheel. the more you pull back on the handle the faster the ball drops.

TTT

if you wasn't so far away. I have a decent tandem axel roller trailer that had a 21' boat on it that could be adjusted for a 19' boat. but i live in Muncie In. I've never even used it as i totaled my boat i was going to put on it. it has been painted over the original paint and the top paint has been peeling off. but the old paint still looks good. i would let this trailer go for 600.00 as that's what i paid for it.

the best advice i can give you is to ask on here for an open seat that uses divers or go out on a good charter that uses divers. and be sure and tell then your wanting to go to school. i moved from the western basin to the central basin and didn't have a clue about running dipsies. the only place i had even seen them was on the shelf at bait shops. we got a group of guys together and took a charter out for a day. by the end of the day we were helping set lines. so he was open the next day so we chartered him again for a second day. by mid day we were doing all the work with his supervision. then we went out on our own. we were able to run 3 lines per side with 1 downrigger per side. we did get a few tangles but as time went on and we gained a little experience we got much better at it. 

2 hours ago, Jeff Mick said:

I appreciate the info on the true trips. Can they be adjusted to run away from the boat for some stealth? 

they would be best run off the boards. if you want something run of the boat that runs out to the sides you would need a slide diver or a dipsy diver or a dreamweaver deeper diver. i use the lite bite slide diver but dont use the slide feature but tie on a 7' leader. the thing i like best about the deeper diver over the dipsy is its the same diameter as a dipsy with the ring on it. the deeper diver doesn't use a ring. i thought about using the dipsy without the ring but the ring helps pull the diver to the side. the only thing is its very hard to trip the diver with mono line. use 30# to 50# braid to the diver then use a 7' 15# seaguar premier fluro line for a leader.

1 hour ago, Jeff Mick said:

Cool. I have heard about the slide divers on this forum. Can you run noodle rods with light line with them? 

no you cant run light line with any of the divers that have to be tripped to bring them in easy. you would want to use 30# braid for lite bite slide divers, dipsey divers, or deeper divers. a better option for running boards in 30' of water or less would be to use true trips. they make a 20 for getting down 20' once enough line is out. but the make a 30 that can be run up to 30' deep depending on line let out. you would need a copy of a dive chart for the 30 but that's what i would use. the line would depend on the release used. but you can go a lot lighter with true trips. and you can use noodle rods but you need to set your drag for the rod as much as the line. lots of guys use true trip 40's and 50's on erie to get down but i think 40's would be pushing it on boards. another option is using clip on weights if your using deep diving cranks to start with. but i would order inline weights for running spoons. rednekoutfitters.com has a dive chart on their website. they also sell inline weights. you tie them on the end of your line then add a 6' or 7' leader then your bait. you can use them with cranks harnesses or spoons.

or i'll let you tow the boat home to remove the motor. i just need the trailer returned because i have it sold to someone.

i just throttle down but keep the boat moving forward. but if you clear the other lines there just isn't any reason to keep the boat moving. but if you go to neutral the boat will turn side ways and may get the other lines tangled or get them into the props or motor. you might get away with it a couple of times but sooner than later your going to have problems unless you clear lines. just my opinion though.

must be picked up in Muncie Indiana. i bought and had installed a 350 vortec aluminum high rise double line holly 4 barrel holly carb in 2010 and hasn't been used much at all. most yrs we make a 1 week trip to Erie and a one week trip to play in the water at Brookville lake in Indiana. a couple of yrs it wasn't used at all. one time we skipped 2 yrs and I had to pump out old gas. just didn't want to try it on 2 yr old gas. the original carb started peeling in the bowl and stopping up the jets. it had a 600 dual line carb on it. I replaced the carb with a 750 carb and at wot on top end it misses a bit., I think a set of plugs might change that as it still has the original plugs since new. but at low and mid range all the way up to full throttle it runs great.

this is a set in complete motor. just drop it in and go. the boat is an 86 with the large flywheel. if you have an older boat that has the small flywheel it will have to be changed. I have taken the outdrive off boat but the motor is still setting in boat and can be started and run for a very short time. it has the electric fuel pump that shuts off if you don't have oil pressure. i put a switch on it that bypasses the shut off to fill the carb with gas when cold after setting for a year. then the switch turns off when released. it will pump just fine without the switch when cranking.

2250.00 cash! we have a lift to remove the motor from the boat and set in your truck or for gas i can deliver it. if you tow your boat here we can drop it in for you at no charge but you'll have to help remove motor as I've never done that. im getting ready to watch youtube.

it looks like i may be ordering 10 spoons if he can copy one i have that worked great on Erie the last 2 yrs. I texted him pictures.

does it have built in gps antenna?

1 hour ago, tuffishooker said:

What about battery drain on the electric riggers ? My concern ! I have yet to try and start my old 70 3 cylinder OMC by rope start the engine with the rope start , maybe worth a try ? My 9 hp. Yamaha does not charge !

One of my several DUMB rescues on Lake Ontario was 3 guys in a 19ft. IO V8 ? motor 5 miles off the east pier of Port Weller with a south west wind and ONE dead car battery ! { with that wind they would probably not made it to the north shore with out being swamped ! I was able to jump start their boat with my cables { they did not have any ! 

I have two batteries deep cycle one over size for my boat !

with the 2 batteries just add a perko battery switch. make sure the riggers are going to the house battery only. when your trolling with the kicker select the house battery for running the riggers. then if it runs low its no big deal. when you get ready to start your motor just switch the switch to the starting battery. i use the number 1 setting for the house battery and the number 2 battery for starting. they also make a battery isolator so when you get the motor running you can put the perko switch to both and not worry about over charging the starting battery. once the starting battery reaches something like 13.3 volts it cuts that battery off and routs the current to the discharged battery. if the starting battery gets below  12.8 it starts charging again. i have 2 like batteries in my boat but with the isolator i don't think it would hurt anything. they make a combiner that I've heard is a better option and works better. but you can read about them and check reviews on both. it sounds like a lot of trouble but its as simple as hooking up a few cables.

5 minutes ago, Todd in NY said:

 

Congrats on your 26ft Sylvan! Sounds like a great boat.

thank you. it's so much better than my old 21'.

17 hours ago, Todd in NY said:

Wow, that's an awesome upgrade!

you took the words right out of my mouth. i looked at his upgrade and thought just what you said. now i understand him only asking 4000 for his old rig. someone got a great but on it. congrats to whoever bought his boat as its a nice boat. and to you on the boat you replaced the old one with.

i put a new bimini top on my old 21' boat and forgot it didn't lay down like my old top did and backed it in the pole barn. well the top caught the overhead door. it destroyed the top bending it around and busted the side glass and bent the frame. the insurance company totaled my boat. it was an old boat so i didn't have it insured for a lot. i got 3800.00 and started looking for another old boat under 4000.00. the my dil and my son said they would chip in on another boat. we got a 26' sylvan that's going to make us a great lake Erie boat.

you can still sell the rest for 175.00. most people don't want the lite bite divers as their not needed for salmon. i walleye fish and use the lite bites for the small fish we catch. i'll pay you 25.00 for the 2 lite bites plus shipping. please let me know one way or the other.

1 hour ago, spoonfed-1 said:

My first pair of riggers were Scotty manuals with extendable boom and swivel base. The ext boom and base gave me a lot more options as far as installation placement went as well as a lot more versatility when it came to running different rod configurations. I went with the Scottys because of the 2 ft retrieve per turn which sure was nice when fishing deep and the clutch system for dropping the weight. Turns out they were pretty much bullet proof and I was glad I went with the Scottys.

 

As happy as I was with them I sure was a lot happier when I upgraded to the electrics. LOL  Good luck with your decision.

i've never used scotties so they may be a better option.

and it's true that if you get electric the motor might burn out some day. but that's not something that happens very often. just make sure they are still working good when you buy them. and a big jon heavy duty motor does cost 209.99 at big jon. but worth taking the chance to have electric. i have a set of cannon mag 10 that came on my boat that looks to be very old so they usually last for many yrs. if i was buying used i would just get ones that's working good at the time i bought them.

i sent you a message about what i'm looking for. please send a massage to my email or a pm or just post it here.

i like to mount my riggers if im using only 2 about a foot from the back of the gunnel making sure i can get to them to reset the lines and crank the riggers. i dont think a swivel base is mandatory but it sure comes in handy. i like to run mine at a 45 degree angel to the back side of the boat that leaves the back open for landing fish and the sides open for running dipsy type divers. something you've got to think about is pulling into a dock without swivel bases is if they are to the side or even just at a 45 degree angle you may have to remove the rigger, where if you have a swivel base you can swing it around.

the one thing i recommend on any rigger is ball retrievers to pull the ball in to set your lines. and the best one i've used is the traxstech pully retrievers. they have a larger roller on them. and they are quality made.

i've used a ton of manual riggers and if i was buying i would be looking at penn. but in the used market you can get a set of electric for not that much more money. i fished manual for 35 yrs before investing in a set of big jon pro tournament riggers. i spent the next year kicking my behind for waiting so long to switch. but it was getting old cranking those heavy weights up at 60 yrs old and a bad heart to boot. 

you'll never regret going electric . but all the major manual riggers are good. cannon, penn, scotty, walker all are good manual riggers. their is a set of penn fathom master 600 riggers on eBay priced a 324.99 but when you click on it the price is 299.00 with free shipping. if you want a good smooth set you should check eBay out.

10 hours ago, Kevin J Legg said:

Use to use 250 shockwaves with 3 triple 7 pellets Shot great but not great expansion.

I switched to 245 grain Barnes spitfire with 100 grains of Black Horn. Shot equally well

but cleaner and much better expansion.

Rusty hooked me up with the Barnes bullets and they seem to work great on the 2 deer I’ve taken. Great penetration plus good expansion.

i used 3 777 pellets behind the CVA slick loads for yrs. the only 2 bullets i was able to retrieve was the 2 chest shots i made at close range. all my other bullets were pass throughs leaving a huge exit wound. i just liked the looks of the aero tip elr bullets so i tried them in my 45 encore LR rifle. my groups was the best i've got with any bullet with my 50 cal's. so i got some for my 50 cal encore. they grouped well for my granddaughter.

i just cant wait until i shoot a deer with them and see how they stack up. i hunted with them last yr and didn't get a shot. the only deer i seen was running at 150 yrds through the brush. then i seen its tail at about 80 yrds. some people would have took that tail shot but i don't need a deer that bad.

i thought you was a little high until i checked on eBay. they want twice what you are asking just for the head unit. i have the old lcx 38c hd thats still working like new and it's about 25 yrs old. these are great old fish finders. mine has gps also .

if you don't mind shipping Delaware propeller in Muncie in did mine and it came back looking like a brand new prop. just do a search on the web and get there info and give them a call.

any deer with a smoke pipe is a nice deer. what bullets were you using.

i switched to a CVA 45 accura lr last yr and semi retired my encore. i'm shooting the new aero tip elr power belts and getting amazing 3 shot groups. so i bought these for the encore. the other day i took my 14 yr old granddaughter shooting with the encore for her first time with a ML. i took it easy on her as she has never shot one. she only started shooting a 22 last yr. but her 3 shot group was 2 almost center bulls eyes at 50 yrds and she said she pulled on the last shot. and she had pulled it and hit about 4" high. these bullets shoot great out of my encore.

i'd give you 12.00 each plus shipping for the lite bite divers.

i've had great service with boatus and geico. i had to be towed at geneva. it cost 600.00 but i didn't pay a dime. lost a wheel on my trailer on I-75 just south of cincy one night about 10:00 pm. called boat us and they sent a flatbed to haul my boat in. again it didn't cost me anything. busted a tire on my truck. didn't have a spare. boat us sent a truck with a new tire. he mounted the new tire and put it on the truck. i did have to pay everything up front. he charged me 175.00 for the tire and mounting it. but charged boat us 375.00 forb the service call. he dit have to drive about 10 miles.

i got around to putting insurance on my boat for the 1st time ever last yr with geico. it was an old boat so i only insured it for 4500.00 but it was the liability that i wanted. this yr i put a new bimini top on the boat. the old top laid down where this one just leaned back against the back posts. i forgot about the top and put the boat in the pole barn. but the new top didnt make it. it crashed on the pole barn overhead door. it bent the frame around breaking the side window and bending the window frame. geico came out and said a new windshield would cost 5000.00 alone. so he was going to total the boat. i bought it back from them for 675.00. i got a great 350 vortec, outdrive and trim pump for 675.00. it took them about a week to pay off but i got it with no trouble.