sherman brown

i went to the electronic flares 2 yrs ago. just remember to install new batteries each spring.

15 hours ago, Jakob5pennies said:

thanks there are both cupping, never heard of heaver tires both need changing so i will go heaver thanks 

 

make sure and have your new tires balanced. an unbalanced tire will bounce causing it to have cups in the tire. i'm not saying its your problem but it sure as heck could be.

i had 13" tires on my trailer. every time i got on the interstate i would have 1 if not 2 flats. i raised my fenders and went to 14" and havent had a flat in over 3 yrs. if the tires are wearing even try going to a larger size tire.

10 hours ago, Fat Trout said:

The tracks are fine. All 3 of mine are in track. I wouldn't do it if you dont through bolt it with fender washers or a backing plate. My fishmaster came with track from the factory and just had screws going int plywood under the aluminum of the gunnel. I replaced them all with though bolts and fender washers in any area that would have any kind of weight in the track.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Lake Ontario United mobile app
 

yeah the only safe way to mount them on tracks is to bolt the tracks on with backing plates or at least fender washers. i have run riggers on my tracks one time. but i tied the riggers to the boat.

the wilderness trolling rods in 8' or longer in med or m/h at fishusa.com is all you need, only 19.99 each. these are fiberglass rods that will last for yrs trolling. i always liked fiberglass best for trolling.

the wilderness trolling rods from fishusa.com for only 19.99 each in 8' medium will work great for all the things you want to do. the fiberglass rods are made for trolling. they look good and will last for years.

I just mounted my 24" tracks with standard ss screws. then I put 2 of the holders down then lifted my 250#'s and bounced around. and i've been using then with the cannon ratcheting holders using 3 dipsy style divers on each side for the last 8 yrs on erie. i've caught lots of 8# to 10# eyes and numerous steelhead and they are as tight as the day I installed them. but a metal boat wouldnt hold like my glass boat. I wouldnt mount them without backing plates on a metal boat.

other than tearing the foam out the way I have mine mounted is with ss screws. but i've only used riggers for 2 weeks once with 3' booms with 12# weights. i've been running 3 0f the large lite bite slide divers on each side with cannon ratcheting rod holders.

when I mounted mine I put 2 holders in the down position and lifted myself up and bounced around just to make sure they were going to hold. I weigh 250# and couldn't pull them loose. if you can get to any of the backs of the holes use ss bolts with large fender washers for backing. 

if you use ss screws drill your holes so the screws are tight going in. but not so tight the screw twists in two.

6 hours ago, GAMBLER said:

They were very accurate but like I stated before, blood trails sucked and the bullets fragmented,  The one doe I front should shot broadside.  I found fragments in the hindquarters.  Another I shot, the bullet fragments and all came out in little pieces.  It looked like multiple .22 holes on exit.  Very little blood.  The Hornadys I shoot now mushroom out perfectly and drop them. 

i'll have to give them a try and see how they do for me as I bought 4 packs for practice and 2 more for the hunt. now I need the deer to cooperate, lol. good luck and good hunting gambler.

3 minutes ago, GAMBLER said:

Any issues with the power belts?  I had zero blood trail on good hits (luckily they didn't go far),the bullets fragmented and made a mess. 

I haven't tried these bullets on game yet. but they are wicked looking and shooting at targets.

I didnt get a light bullet but chose the new 280 grn power belt bullet thats longer and more pointed than other bullets. they are made for long range. these in front off 100 or 150 grns would be deadly out to 200 yrds and beyond.

I use to own the cva accura v2 that was an awesome rifle. but it got stole from me. I also have a tc encore thats a great gun. but I just bought a new cva accura 45 caliber long range with the 30" barrel with the nitride finish from cva.com for only 430.00. I would recommend this gun to you. power belt also makes a long range bullet thats awesome for it. if you want 50 caliber cva makes this rifle in 50 caliber for the same money.

1 hour ago, Rookie Fisherman said:

 

 

 

 

It was because of the post above his, I brought it back up to see if Cannon has corrected this problem. 

Don't think Sherman realized it was the only new post in this thread. I Probably should have just started a new one

 

But if anyone knows if Cannon has corrected this issue I would like to hear about it.

 

sorry guys but I didnt notice it was such an old thread. I have single axis and used then a few times a yr for 3 yrs with no problems. sure hope cannon fixed the problem.

On 7/22/2014 at 11:42 PM, Captain Carl Bish said:

I tend to use things like this a little more than most....but I will sell 10 of them to you for a total of $800 .... If you care to put your money where your mouth is..... Call me and they are yours...716-560-2878

he can get brand new from hodges marine for 86.45 each with free shipping. why would he want to pay 80.00 for used? just saying.

get new boards that pulls harder.

I see you already bought rods and reels. i've fished for salmon and eyes for yrs. what I would recommend is the daiwa sealine sg27lc3b reels and 8' med action widerness trolling rods from fishusa.com. these will fish both species very well. 1st off you don't need a 9' rod for either fish. no need to go heavier than med action as your fishing open water where you wont need to horse the fish. the wilderness is a cheap fiberglass rod ( no need for anything else for trolling) that will last for yrs. I fish erie's central basin and run 6 divers 3 on each side and 1 rigger per side. I have never used a dipsy rod they are to stiff for me. I like a rod with a little give to it. its much easier to detect fish with a med or even a med/light than with a broomstick. the  dr rods of yesterdays was either 8'3" or 8'6" in med/light action. caught many a big king without a rod failure.

I run a 9' med action on my front diver an 8' med action on my middle diver and a 7' med/light on my back diver. some people like all the rods the same length. but this works best for me. I think it helps prevent tangles. I use lite bite slide divers because you set the lure tension to release on small fish. I just use them like dipsies. I attack my line to the front. tie a short leader to a split ring lase it through the back going in the lite bite arm then attach a snubber then use a 6' to 7' fluro leader then my lure. I use swivels on my leader. I set the lite bite arm as loose as it will go so it trips on small fish even most white perch.

I use chamberlain releases for the same reason I use the lite bites. it has an adjustment for the lure you set as loose as you can without getting false releases. in my opinion its the only release for eyes. and the lite bite  is the only diver for eyes. I started with dipsies but didnt liked the rings coming off all thed time. I seen the deeper diver without rings. they turned out much better than dipsies. Dreamweaver deeper diver at fishusa.com about 14.00. then I seen the lite bites and tried them and i've never looked back.

is this tiller steering rope start?

they make a body filler for auto's that has cat hair mixed in it. a friend had something bounce up a knock a hole in his bass boat. he used it and used the boat for yrs and it worked as good as the original hull.

you might try moving the attaching point on the board a little farther towards the back. this will make them pull harder and run farther up.

On 4/4/2020 at 10:30 AM, slamminsam said:

ohhh, BTW...I like the dual battery idea best. I’ll definitely be looking into that option. Are the Walmart ones dual?  

yes wall mart sells the duel purpose batteries. and they are as good as other batteries. I think there is only 3 companies in the us that makes and sells to large supply stores like wall mart. but there may be a few more now. but i've used wall mart batteries for yrs.

sounds like the inner lining of the gas line is collapsing inside itself. the new gas line will fix the problem if thats what it is.

I would fill it with jb weld and forger about it.

you will be fine using a large duel purpose battery for both. a few more yrs down the road you'll be thankful you got electric start. if you run the trolling motor enough to run the battery down it still has the rope start. just make sure you get one that charges the battery. but most times the electric start will start a 15 hp motor. on the rare occasion you rope start you'll be glad the electric start is on the motor.

On 3/28/2020 at 11:54 AM, Sk8man said:

Next you'll be splitting your own arrows Bill

they call them robin hoods when you stick one arrow with another one. but it gets expensive if done often. I have busted many nocks but was good enough to avoid getting a robin hood, lol.

sounds very much like the calipers are stopped up but it would be rare for both sides to stop up at the same time. switch sides and use the vacuum pump. the rubber lining of the brake line often separate's and stops up the line. I would remove the rubber line and blow through it to see if its stopped up before changing the caliper. if both sides are the same look for a crimp in metal line. if you have an all rubber line I would check it before doing anything else.