sherman brown

would you consider breaking them up? if you will tell me the size on the hot n tots? I have no use for the other baits. you can send me the size and price by pm. and I would need them shipped. I only want small size hot n tots.

i've found the cheaper braid is almost as good as name brand . I bought china power pro off ebay way cheaper than name brand  it  has worked great for me. you just don't want it unless it has 8 strands. I;ve used off brand while fishing down in florida that stood up as well as name brand. I have had it cut off when it got into the rocks. but i've only had a few breaks with 40# off brand. I did have a rod break when the fish was about to get into the pilings on a bridge.

4 hours ago, HB2 said:

You can use a slide diver as a poor man's downrigger for shallow water fishing . By that I mean water 15 to   40 feet when  the fish are surface to bottom . Let out 75 ft or more , set diver to max side setting and let out diver so it's like 5 to 10 ft  ft under the surface, or 15 ft off bottom  . Kind of like a underwater planer . You can get it about 15 to  30  ft off the side with a 10 ft rod . 

Done this a few times and it works.  

I use the lite bite slide diver. I run 65# power pro braid on top of the mono. I went out to 50' of water and let out line until I started hitting bottom. with this set up and running at 2.0 it took 185' to get down to 50'. then I did the math and got 2.7 dive for every 10' of line out with my diver set up.

I don't even use the slide part of the diver but use lure tension by being able to use just about a 6' to 7' fluro for my leads then I use about 65# line then tie a 0-RING on a piece  and lace it up in the back going through the lite bite arm. I just tie to the front arm.with my main line. using the slide divers for longer leads is your choice. I will never use the slide part as I get plenty long enough leaders using it like a dipsy. but I can catch plenty of fish with the short 6' or 7' leader.

I use them and they are made to last many yrs. they are heavy duty holders.

you can get cannon ratcheting holders at amazon for 78.00. I found them for 74.00 at hodgesmarine.com

some one can get a nice set of riggers and just replace the motors. at bigjon.com the heavy duty motors are 179.00 but you might find them if you do a search on line. I have big jon pro tournament. the auto stopped working on both riggers after very little use.

they can be shipped in a usps priority box for around 15.00 flat rate up to 70 lbs. I shipped 50 lbs of lead to a guy last yr but don't remember just what it cost. the flat box will hold both weights. if you don't find what you want here look on ebay. they are only around 70.00 for 2 of them.

I like the traxstech stops.

Just now, sherman brown said:

I like the idea of having a longer track. that way you can add or adjust to your needs. I got 24" tracks but wasnt happy because I just didnt have enough room between my rods running 3 divers. so I added another 24" track. now I can use one holder in the front for my net and 3 holders for my divers and a downrigger in the back and still have extra room. I like using tracks so its easy to remove gear if I want to go play in the water. all the holders and rigger just slides right off.

 

if you plan on using a rigger its best to use a backing plate or fender washers and bolt all the way through. I just have mine fastened on with ss screws. I tested them by putting my 250 lbs on the rod holders and bouncing on them. but I usually just run rod holders on them but have used big jon downriggers with 3' booms without anything working loose.

double post

I would go with tracks for running divers. that way you can adjust your rod holders as needed. I think all the track are all the same. I use cannon tracks which are good and heavy duty. and they are competitively priced. I also love the cannon single axis ratcheting rod holders for running my divers. they adjust up and down with one hand. then when a fish hits or just to bring the rod in grab the rod and lift and the holder ratchets to the upright position with no more leaning over the side of the boat. you can find them for less than 80.00. I found them at hodgesmarine.com for just over 74.00 each. hope this helps.

you can check out boat covers on ebay. most have extra material in the stress points. but a custom cover is always best but cost's a lot more money.

I like the single axis cannon ratcheting holders better than the duel axis. the duel axis adjusts from one pin hole to the next from side to side. where as the single axis can be adjusted as little or as much as you like up to 70 degrees each way.

I almost switched to the traxstech holders because they have 17 up and down adjustments with the lowest one below level. but I bought one off ebay to check them out before I invested the money. I liked the up and down adjustments better than the 6 adjustments on the cannon. but the cannon can be set with only one hand and the traxstech takes both hands. so I decided to stay with the cannon because it much easier to set the holder with a rod in your hand.

I like the stops on traxstech better than the cannon. but I bought cannon with my rod holders so i'll just keep using the cannon stops.

I like the single axis cannon ratcheting holders better than the duel axis. the duel axis adjusts from one pin hole to the next from side to side. where as the single axis can be adjusted as little or as much as you like up to 70 degrees each way.

I almost switched to the traxstech holders because they have 17 up and down adjustments with the lowest one below level. but I bought one off ebay to check them out before I invested the money. I liked the up and down adjustments better than the 6 adjustments on the cannon. but the cannon can be set with only one hand and the traxstech takes both hands. so I decided to stay with the cannon because it much easier to set the holder with a rod in your hand.

here in Indiana the saying goes if you don't like the weather stick around a day and it will change. but the only changes were getting this spring is more rain than yesterday.

i'll give you 60.00 for the pancake weights with shipping. you can ship them in a flat priority usps box at the post office for around 10.00. you can ship up to 70 lbs for a flat rate.

I don't always get my dr balls if I use light weights. I use 13# pancake weights now and usually mark them. what I did on my finder to get a good arch on fish was speed the scroll up when trolling.

I like 4 for salmon fishing. 2 with 4' booms out the side and 2 with 2' or 3' booms off the corners. but now I only fish walleye on erie and run 2 out the side with 6 lite bite slide divers.

you can try going to a bigger prop or go up about 4 degrees in pitch. you should lose about 200 rpm's for every 2 degrees of prop[ pitch.

what diameter and pitch prop are you using now?????

I have a 14 1/4 diameter prop on my mercruiser 5.7 motor. I had to cut part of the little trim tab/anode so the larger prop would work.

yes you get blow back when the boat is moving, more so with lighter weights. any rigger counter isn't going to be perfect. but with the boat stopped it should be close. I use a 13# pancake just to reduce the blowback.

40 minutes ago, Garrett said:

That looks like a standard pipe nipple.  Try checking home depot / lowes for a threaded flange.  Standard 150# flanges should have 4 bolt holes, although they're not spread real far apart.  You're probably going to want to through bolt that with some 1/4" aluminum plate on the bottom side of your deck and/or mount the flange to a piece of steel/aluminum to make a larger flanged area on top.

yes you can get a flange that it will screw into. the backing plate should be somewhat larger than the flange as most of the pressure will be on the backing plate.

I don't like the duel axis as they adjust from one pin hole to the next which is to far most of the time. with the single axis I can adjust as little as I want. but thank you for replying.

if you have some cannon single axis ratcheting rod holders I need 4 of them.

it really depends on just how deep you want to fish. clip on weights are used on erie to get down to the fish on the western basin. you can use any leads you want from 6' in front of the spoon to 60' then clip on the weight usually 1 or 2 oz weights are used. then let the weight out to get to the desired depth. the inline weight can also be used to get the spoon down. the inline weight is used a lot on the central basin on erie. a 3 oz weight is usually used then to get to deeper depths. you can find inline weights at rednekoutfitters.com which also has a depth chart for there weights. the depth will depend a lot on speed, the slower you go the deeper your lure goes, the faster you go the shallower your lure will be.