sherman brown

just go to eBay and search for shift cables for Honda outboard motors. I think the cables are interchangeable like the Mercury cables are. you might even add the length you want to your search. it should give you some options to buy both cables together. I'm using old 115 HP 2 stroke Mercury 1979 cables on my 2000 Mercury 9.9 4 stroke.

I don't know what channels to monitor on LO. On Erie, most guys use I think 79 on the west end and 68 on the central basin and east. but I check both of them and use 68 most of the time. back when I salmon fished Lake Michigan I used 68 there. another thing I like doing is putting my radio on scan then if guys switch channels to share info with a friend and not broadcast all over the place.

any time you're on big water I think it's foolish to not have a VHF radio just in case something breaks down and you need a tow or god forbid but if someone gets sick or has a bad injury you need to be able to contact the Coast Guard so they can have an ambulance waiting for you to get back to shore. I went the extra mile when I upgraded my 20-year-old radio. I bought one with the GPS already on it then registered it through BOATUS. now if I am sinking or have other problems I just push the big red button and they know everything about me and my boat.

I have an EGC-12 W GPS PUCK I will sell you for 12.00 plus shipping. if it turns out bad I will give you a full refund. I have an SS 19P HIGH FIVE PROP that is in great condition for 250.00 shipped to you. I have an electric Panther tilt for your kicker motor. these are a great tilt option for motors without the factory tilt. 475.,00 and I cover shipping. may add other items later.

where were you at telling me this before I was skinned, or scammed? i did learn to not trust anyone but I learned the hard way. i had no idea that more scammers are on FB Marketplace than honest people. it's a gold mine for scammers.

I got scammed badly on 2 fish finders on FB Marketplace. the 1st one didn't have a PP account but found a friend that let him use his but we had to do friends and family. after I paid I never heard from either of them again. the 2nd one didn't have a PP account either. after a few days, he came up with the idea of paying with Zelle through my bank and as soon as he was paid I never heard from him again. So now if it's more than a few bucks I will only pay with PP goods and services.

I would like more info on both birds as well. if you want you can message me with more information. things like are the feathers off, shipping, minimum amount, and cost on both birds, will they be shipped frozen or on ice. when I get meat from Wild Fork they pack it with dry ice and it's still frozen solid when I get it.

when you say faucet pressure is your water coming from a faucet or an outside line? faucet pressure is much too low to use on your motor.

the water should always be opened all the way. and I would clean the pee line first, then if it's still low volume your motor might not get hot idling but at high RPM you should pay close attention to your heat gauge. but I would never take the chance, I would replace the water pump impeller at the least.

the water temp and steam isn't caused by the motor and get hot much sooner than your motor. As long as your head doesn't feel hot then it is all good. if you still have a weak stream something might be blocking the line. I would make sure I got the line clean all the way through it. you can feel it when you are all the way through the line. if the flow doesn't improve after cleaning you might want to think about replacing your water pump. the reason I know about this is I was having trouble with my Mercruiser kept getting hot after I replaced the impeller when I had run it without turning the water back on while we were working on the motor. it seemed fine but after 3000 RPMs would get hot fast. I went back and made sure the lines hadn't got blocked by my old impeller busting into many pieces. I spent more than a week researching everything including the pee line on outboard motors. i had almost given up on it then I remembered a charter caption that lives close by and said he was also a marine mechanic. I gave him a call and asked if he could work on it. I told him everything about it. then he asked me if I had changed the upper housing and the wear plate on the bottom. he said that sometimes they got distorted after they had been hot. I replaced everything except the lower part. when I took it back out it never got hot. by now I had already bought another boat and sold this one.

sometimes the lines get clogged from bugs to spider webs. on a couple of motors that weren't getting any flow, I used a large piece of weedeater line and ran it up the pee hole until I hit the blockage. I kept moving the line in and out hitting the clog hard until it gave way and I ran the line all the way in and did the back and forth. water was already coming out around the line and when I removed the line the water was dark green until all the crap came out. one motor had set for a couple of years but both were stopped up with green moss. I have had quite a few motors over my 45 years boating not pee until I opened them up. at first, I used a small wire to unstop the water line. but about 15 years ago I started using the Weedealine. to answer your question the water should be coming out within the 1st 60 to 90 seconds. but if the pee tube has anything in the tube it may take a little longer or not at all. to explain it better the thermostat has nothing at all to do with the pee tube. the water doesn't ever enter the inside of the motor. it has its own line running by the motor and next to the exhaust tubes that heat the water up. the water gets hot from the exhaust, not from the motor. the pee tube water is a bypass to let water flow so the operator knows it's pumping water. taking a short time the water is next to the exhaust tubes which heats it up. if it's slow to start flowing the water will get hot and cause the steam. be sure if it isn't flowing after a couple of minutes to run something up the pee hole all the way up. it doesn't hurt your motor to run it without water for a few minutes as it takes a while for the motor to get hot enough to hurt it. when I clean the line I run the motor so the water pressure helps clean the line as I break up the clog. if the motor is running and you're worried it is overheating just carefully put your hand against the head to see how hot it is. it shouldn't be near hot enough to burn you. my tip of the day is to use a set of muffs that has water going to both sides. with any muffs make sure they are covering the water intake on the motor. be sure to turn the water supply as much as it will go. some people think they will blow out the impeller and only turn the water on about halfway. they don't ever think about the pressure from the lake going 40 or 50 MPH. it is so much more pressure than any water supply. if you watch the water coming out the muffs with a warm motor you will actually see the amount of water being much less than it was.

if it has fuel in the oil you have a much larger problem. and there is no way it should have enough fluid in it for it to run out when the dipstick is removed. but before I would do anything with what you say about the oil pouring out when you pull the dipstick and the smell of gas I wouldn't run it again and set up a time to take the motor in to have it checked and repaired. it is something a lot more serious than condensation in your oil. my guess would be a blown head gasket or a cracked head. but getting it checked by a certified mechanic will give you the answers to the problem. they might know some other way you are getting water or fuel in the oil. but my first guess would be the head gasket or the head. but 1 more option would be a cracked block but I think that is highly unlikely. these are the only ways I know for water or oil to get in your oil. it sounds a lot like you may have a blown head gasket or a cracked heat. with what you say here I would take a small amount of the oil and place it on the ground or other safe place away from everything that might catch fire. then I would get a long stick or other thing then I would tape a piece of paper on the end and light the paper then hold it to the oil and see if it burns. if it's just fuel and water nothing should happen but if fuel is in it, it should catch on fire in short order.

try googling downrigger dredge weight and see what you get. and yes a dredge weight is shaped like a fish. but it has small front fins that are set to cause the weight to dive downward which it actually dives and pulls the weight down. I just went and did a Google search for downrigger dredge weight and got several different sites that have them. eBay has good prices on some of them but Walmart isn't bad.

you have it right!! I love these weights. I can't wait until I get to try the 10# ones I bought. HAPPY FISHING TO EVERYONE AND THE BEST OF LUCK.

I watched a video of running a Garmin with the transducer showing what was forward of the boat. I thought it was awesome so you would know ahead of this when you were going to be in fish. I thought very seriously about switching to Garmin for this feature alone. but it was cost prohibitive for me. right now I have all Lowrance HDS units, I have a 12 live and a 9 gen 3, and an 8 gen1 for emergencies.

checking your thermostat would be a great place to start. but any time you run your motor in colder water and colder temps if you don't run it at a higher RPM long enough to dry the condensation it will mix with your oil. the more times you run in colder conditions at idle will make things worse each time it's used.

1st off I have no idea what you're talking about. A downrigger dredge weight is the weight that attaches to your DR cable that takes your lures down. it doesn't attach to your DR weight as it is your DR weight. just go to Walmart's site and do a search for downrigger weights. they carry several designs of rigger weights with the dredge weight being one of them. the design with the little wings with the downward angle causes them to dive better than other weights of the same weight. which causes less blowback as they aren't just weight but the diving design helps them pull down with a deeper dive curve than other weights. I really hope this clears up any confusion you have. when we forgot our 12# pancake weights and found the 8# dredge weight on the boat I thought we would have a lot more blowback than the pancake weights. but when we let them down and set the blowback was much less with the 8# weight over the 12# pancake weights I had been using for years.

I have found the dredge weights to work the best with less blowback than all the others I have tried. I used 12# pancake weights to reduce blowback. One trip in the boat we just bought the weights didn't get loaded. we found a set of 8# dredge weights that we had to use. they worked better with less blowback than my 12# pancake weights had. I bought a set of 10# dredge weights to use but haven't used them yet. WALLMART is the best option I know of for the lowest price on rigger weights. and they have a pretty good choice of weights. they have the 10# dredge weights in silver for only 34.00 each. they have pink and purple priced at 42.00. but they have several balls with fin weights at much better prices.