sherman brown

I can't really give you any advice because it sounds like you already have everything you need, knowledge. All the old 2 stroke motors are pretty much the same and are straightforward. for someone who has the knowledge to rebuild auto engines shouldn't have any problem rebuilding any 2-stroke boat motor. the only thing is to be sure and torque the head bolts as the instructions say they should be torqued. the rest is so simple you should have no problem. all the old 2-stroke motors I have dealt with have roller bearings so no need to check the clearance like an auto motor. they also use reed valves so you don't have to set the valves. now all the rest is simple. and rebuilding your motor will be the same as a new motor. but you may need to adjust the old cards or rebuild them.

You may be right about the jumper you have. the one I use is an off-brand and it works great in the salvage yard when I connect the red jumper wire to the positive cable and hook the ground to the ground cable or and metal of the car. then I car run anything electrical to see if it works before taking it off. The jumper I have is just a small powerful lithium battery that works and time the jump cables are attached to any 12v item. are you connecting to the cables that connect to your battery? Are you pushing the jump button on the jumper to turn the power on like what has to be done before jumping a car? are you 100% sure the cable you hooked to is battery 1? did you try switching to battery 2 just to see if that was the problem? any time the power button is turned on the cables should be putting out 12v of power which should run any 12v item. I just had to jump my son's car yesterday when his battery was completely dead. Not even the dome light came on. I connected the cables and pushed the power button for 3 seconds until the little power light came on and hit the starter and she cranked over good and started right up.

I have used my lithium power pack jump stater to power many cars in salvage yards to check electrical items before they are removed without ever having any problem. are you 100% sure you had the Perko switch set to the correct battery? or were you connecting the leads from the motor to the Perko switch? there is just no reason that the jump pack shouldn't have worked as long as the power was being directed to the trim motor. the packs i have always used had power to the cables as soon as the power was turned on, on the jump pack. if you hook to the hot cable that goes to a battery and hook the ground to any ground then try the 1 battery and if it doesn't work try switching to battery 2. we were up on Erie and the starter was reading cranking slow with my switch on both. I never thought about checking anything out I just had a new starter installed. but when I started the motor it hadn't helped anything. I switched to battery 1 and she cranked like crazy. then I switched to battery 2 and it wouldn't even turn the motor. my point being you should check each side separately and not both batteries at the same time

my 2000 merc 9.9 4 stroke is to old for this to work on it. but from what i've heard and read these are great if you don't have hydralic steering. good luck to the buyer as this is a great deal on a stand alone auto pilot for your kicker motor.

I like using 1 bag on each side for better boat control. and the size of the bag is most dependent on how slow you will ever want to go. It's also better to error on the larger size. you may use a little more gas but you can always bump your speed up but you can't get it to run slower if your bags are too small. I ran 36" bags on my 21' Cobia glass boat with a 5.7 Vortec motor with 315 HP. but most of the time I trolled with the wind so I only had to bump it up very little. on calmer days I only used 1 bag.

I sent you a pm of what I use and where I bought it.

many, many years ago I bought an LCX 38C HD fish finder/GPS combo unit that has been a great unit for all my fishing needs including Lake Erie. it was still working great so I really can't explain why I did it, but I just wanted to try a newer unit. I bought an HDS 9 GEN 3 which I haven't even used yet. I paid 860.00 for this unit with a 3-D structure scan box and transducer. but I kept looking at other used models. I ended up getting an HDS 12 LIVE or the carbon unit I just can't remember which unit I ended up buying, with the 3 in 1 transducer for 1090.00. if you want to check on these types of units just send me a message. they have many of the HDS 9 GEN 3 or you might find a good deal on a smaller live or carbon unit you want.

the ground can be attached to any source of ground. with the hot wire connected to the hot cable it should work great.

hello Tom! you doing OK these days? no, not again. but they took all my spoons and even went so far as to take my HIGH FIVE prop off my boat and the marine radio out of it.

I would have had plenty of the scorpion spoon and galeforcetackle.com spoons that were faded or in the case of the stinger spoons, the paint just came off after catching a very few fish. and I had some old Gale Force spoons that Vicky gave me to try after I made my orders. but someone beat you to them. I had about 500 good spoons most of them had never been used and probably never would have. then I had maybe 200+ of the spoons that I never used. but some people I treated very good broke into my pole barn and took so much stuff including all my spoons. I won't even start listing all the stuff that was stolen.

I have the slow-speed reels and they work just fine for me. the only real advantage I see with the high-speed reels is bringing them in to check lines or change lures. with a fish on you reel it in at the fish's speed and not the reel speed. but for running wire out 300' or 350' they would be priceless for checking or changing lures. let me add I am a walleye fisherman. but for salmon making a run at the boat the high-speed is the only way to go.

the only thing I can add is to go with the wind whenever possible. I don't have or use a tolling motor. I used my main motor for years but finally got a 9.9 4-stroke kicker. either way going with the wind makes it so much easier to control the boat and speed. I probably troll with the wind 90% of the time. you won't run your trolling motor nearly as hard giving you more time on the water. the waves and wind do most of the work so you can get away with running the motor on a lower setting saving your battery.