sherman brown

2 hours ago, Tschultz1980 said:

4 Ugly Stix 7'6" Medium light action 

Trolling rods 

 

$50 for all 4 rods

Call or text 585-313-7631

are these 1 or 2 piece rods?

On 7/17/2021 at 8:49 AM, Pappy said:

1989 Rinker Festiva with 170 Hp Mercrusier inboard , 6 cal on Yacht Club dual axle trailer.

offering for sale as a turnkey ready to fish now package!

Estimated hours on engine are 500 to 600 based on what I was told when I bought boat in August of 2015 and what I’ve run it since.

It runs great and has been perfectly maintained and I have the details etc.

i have all original manuals etc from original purchase.

when I bought it was a pleasure boat and I set up as fishing boat winter/spring of 2015/2016 and it has been a great boat for me.

i dry dock in Sodus Point and fish about 10 times a year.

has full canvas enclosed, sides and front and back full cover

has good winter cover

Fishing gear

Hummingbird 597 Graph

Fishhawk X4

2 Cannon 5SST Downriggers

Cannon Adjustable Rod holder Straight back

Double Cannon rod holder on each downrigger

2 Titelock rod holders , one on each side

2 rail mount rod holders up front

standard vhf radio, older, it works fine, I don’t use it

 

other gear

life jackets 

anchor

ropes and bumpers

paddles

fire extinguisher

New Flares

etc

 

all seats and interior in great shape!

Fishing Stuff all comes off in about 20 minutes and it can be used a pleasure boat etc.

This is a roller off and go fishing ready boat!

 

Price is $8500 complete

pm or call/txt 607-738-4168, name is Pat

hey, did you ever sell your boat? would you sell the boat and trailer without any of the fishing gear as i already have everything i need?

i totaled my boat when i left my new top in the half standing position and backed it into the top of my overhead door on my pole barn. now i have all this gear but no boat.

i have 2 Big Jon pro tournament riggers with sectioned boom that's been around for a few years but only used forb1 weekl on Erie, so they are still in almost new condition, i have a brand new vhf radio with built in GPS, i have a Lowrance HDS 12 live with the 3 in 1 transducer, or i also have a 3D structure scan with transducer, i have 8 Cannon ratcheting rod holders but would need to add tracks, i have 4 Okuma Coldwater 203 reels and rods i can use on one side and 4 Daiwa Sealine sg 17 lc3b reels and rods for the other side for running lite bite slide divers, i have 2 traxstech fixed rod holders thar are leaning out about 29 degrees that we use as dip net holders. i have 4 Okuma convector 20s with rods i use on my riggers. i have traxsteck pully retrievers on the rigger cables to bring the rigger weights to the boat for rigging,

i have all types and size spoons and deep and shallow walleye bandits and a few custom bandit cranks along with other cranks to use on my riggers and i have been known to run the shallow cranks on one side ofthe boat with the lite bite divers.

so as you can see i have no need for any gear except the bumpers would nice to have. if you still have the boat and if you would sell it without any of the gear except the bumnpers. WHAT WOULD BE YOUR BEST PRICE FOR THE BARE BOAT, TRAILER, AND BUMPERS. you can message me with your answer.

23 hours ago, Mtnmax925 said:

Looking for used or beat up stingers standard size 3 7/8. Wanting to try and paint my own!!

if you don't find what you want for the right price try galeforcetackle,com i don't know if they still have them but they did have blanks that need painting. you might also message vicki at ,<[email protected]> this was her email address  a few years ago. 

it depends on just how long you plan to keep the boat. usually an aluminum boat will last forever. i bought an old Cheokee 18' boat out of a field for 200.00. everything was rotted out including the tires. but the hull was as solid as a new boat.

if it was me and i planned on keeping it for many years i would check with places like lowes and online for the new non-wood materials available today. they may cost more than plywood but plywood can get soft spots down the road from being exposed to small standind water areas that isn't noticeable but keeps the floor damp. but once the non-wood flool is installed you will never have to replace the floor again. you will have total piece of mind as long as you use the boat. plus the resale value will be higher with a floor that wont rot.

16 hours ago, SusanJames said:

I've been running inline boards for a few years now in skinny water from my 15' tiller boat. Next spring I will be adding lite bit slide divers to my offerings. Just wondering if there is a rule of thumb for lbs of pressure needed to trip the lite bite arm? I want the divers to trip instead of dragging around small fish but don't want them to "false trip." Anu help would be appreciated.

I use them on Erie for walleye. i set the lite bite as loose as it will go then set the rod tension tight enough so I'm not getting false releases. with the lite bite set extra loose, I get releases on just about all hits even from small white perch or larger yellow perch. i haven't had any problems with hookups with them set loose whatsoever.

I switched to the lite bites a few years ago and would never think about switching back. I run 3 per side and 1 downrigger per side. but I don't use the slide feature on them. I just tie it to the front arm then tie a short piece of 65# braid to an o-ring then lace it through the little block in front of the lite bite arm then lace it through the lite bite arm. but I use a snubber that I tie onto the short piece of braid then tie on a good swivel then tie on a 7' fluro leader and tie another good swivel on the end of the leader and then attach my lure. 

if you don't use a snubber then there's no need for the short piece of braid, just use the leader for the whole thing. and some people don't use snubbers, but using braid line for my main line which is a must for tripping divers I feel better adding a snubber to give the fish a little flex when they start shaking and jerking their head.

does that don't get breed during the 1st round come back into heat again and againuntil they get stuck by a big buck. i live in IN and this years deer which we call yearlings are usually dressed at 50# to 100# but the larger ones are rare. but the deer that gets breed late have there young later than normal. the smallest deer i've seen was killed on public land by a guy new to hunting. he took his kill to the property check station and said he made a bad mistake and he quit. and left the 22# deer with them and left. a  deer at 22# wouldn't have survived the winter. this happened on our muzzleloader season in mid December.

bottom line yes thetre are second ruts but not as many hot does making the bucks work harder to find them. plus any does that don't ger breed during the 2nd rut will come back into heat again.

18 hours ago, EKoselny said:

I am on my second weekend of trying to remove the oil filter from my Mercruiser 5.0L. Should be pretty simple, but for some reason this season it just does not want to come off. I am on my 4th different style of oil filter wrench and I just can not get it to budge. I guess my next step is going to have to be driving a screwdriver through the filter, but I am worried this is just going to tear up the metal filter leaving me with no options left. Does anyone have any other tricks up their sleeve to try? 

 

Also, if I cant get the filter off this year and decide to try to defer to next spring, can I still fill the engine with new oil and not have it all drain out next year when I do get the filter off? Or can I remove the oil filter and not loose the oil? 

I don't know if this will work in your case or not. does your filter still attach to the bottom of your motor or do you have a remote oil filter on it? back in the days when I changed filters before I wised up, I had several stuck on my car motors. what I ended up doing was using my largest screwdriver and drive it all the way through the filter as far too the right side then use it for leverage and start turning the filter to the left slowly while still under pressure I would start tapping the filter with a hammer if I had room. there were a few where I didn't have room to tap the filter but still got them to break loose.

some of the filters I had to put the screwdriver in near the bottom at an angle upward coming out near the top on the other side. and I had a couple that were still a pain getting loose. the metal on the filter would tear when a lot of pressure was applied with the screwdriver.

other than using a large screwdriver or other type of bar to go all the way through the filter the only thing I would try is banging on the filter from different angles before using an oil filter. wrench.

one good filter wrench that worked well for me on tight filters was a large one that had a rubber strap that went all the way around the filter. when using one of these you may want to clean the filter before using it. and a short piece of pipe to put over the handle for more leverage wouldn't hurt either.

I just did a Bing search for an oil filter strap and I hadn't ever seen this one. it has a small square metal piece with the strap attached at both ends. you place it over the filter and turn the metal piece until the strap tightens around the filter. once it starts to tighten you can use a large 1/2" ratchet and keep tightening it until the filter breaks loose or Hadies freezes over. In my opinion, this would have to be the most powerful oil filter wrench I have ever seen in my 55+ years I've been driving.

bottom line do a search for this strap and get one and I believe it will solve all your filter problems. i didn't do any in-depth research on where to buy one or their price.

a lot would depend on how many amps your electronics use. but for a normal fish finder and downriggers, a group 31 deep cycle batter should run both all day. normally the downriggers aren't used enough to be a big factor. so your electronics are going to be the thing that uses most of your power.

if it was me with the prices of lithium batteries being very reasonable anymore i would go with a 100 AH lithium deep cycle battery. you can find off-brands on Amazon that are as cheap as AGM deep-cycle batteries.

the main factors to consider is a lead/acid battery can only be discharged to about 50% before it starts damaging the battery. plus as they discharge they also lose power.

a lithium battery is less than half the weight and they can be discharged almost dead and still not cause damage. the biggest factor if they don't lose any power throughout it's power cycle. under the same use, the lithium will give you at least twice the run time of the lead/acid battery. and they give you the same power at 20% as they do at full charge.

in my opinion, a lithium battery would be your best option for confidence in being able to stay out a little longer and have the peace of mind you don't have to worry about your battery going dead. and if you get the 20 AMP charger they really charge up in a short time.

6 hours ago, smallcal said:

Sir -

 

Sent you a PM Tuesday.  Can take paypal, will box them uo and get a correct shipping cost.  Thank you.

sorry old man i haven't been checking messages.

why not just invest in a new lithium battery for the trolling motor then hook the kicker to your starting battery for starting the kicker and recharging it when the kicker is running. 

going to a lithium battery for the trolling motor will extend your run time to almost double what you get from the largest lead acid battery I know of. plus you can almost deplete the lithium battery and have full power going to the motor until it's done. a lead/acid battery can only be depleted to around 50% before it starts to damage the battery, plus as it depletes it loses power as it goes down.

you will not regret investing in the lithium battery. plus it weighs about half what the lead/acid battery does. plus you have peace of mind with the run time and having full power all the way through the power band.

3 hours ago, greenhornet73 said:

The swivel bases aren’t in good enough condition to put on my boat otherwise I would have kept them.  I oiled them up so they rotate ok but the springs are rusted out and won’t lock in place.

as long as a person could manually engage the pins they would still be so much better than not having any swivel bases at all. being able to turn them at a 45-degree angle off the corners and then turn them to the inside is priceless when getting gas at the dock.

that's like I started using manual riggers back in 77 when I was 26 years old for salmon fishing Lake Michigan. I had used manual riggers until about 12 years ago. I had come into a little extra money from backpay from Social Security disability. so I was looking at used Big Jon electric riggers on eBay when I noticed 2 distributors were having their own little price. they came all the way down to 500.00 for a pair of pro tournament riggers with stops and 4' booms in 12" sections. I bought 2. Then another set came down to 525.00 and I ended up buying them. shipping was free and no tax back then. 

but my point is I ended up kicking my behind every day for the next year, for now going to Electric Riggers 25 years sooner, LOL, the joke was on me. at that time we were just getting started walleye fishing on the central basin, and cranking 12# weights up by hand many times a day wasn't a welcome feat. i am 72 now and no way could i do it now. I did end up selling 2 of them after I used them a few times for 750.00. 4 riggers with 6 dipsy divers were just too much to keep up with. now I run 2 old cannon riggers that came with the boat my son and I bought, then I switched the dipsies out for the deeper divers.

but after seeing the lite bite slide divers I switched again for them. and for walleye fishing and I knew I couldn't replace them I wouldn't take 1,000.00 each for what I have. Just loosen the lure tension as loose as it will go and no matter how tight the rod tension is it will still trip on small white perch and most times a jumbo yellow perch will trip them. no dragging small fish around like with the dipsy or deeper diver. in rough water, you need the rod tension a little tight or you run yourself ragged on false releases. no worries with the lite bite divers. and I don't even use the slide I just use it with a 6' or 7' fluro leader.

I don't really need them right now but if you take PayPal I want them for spares. those are called dredge weights. would you please ship them priority mail at the USPS? 2 years ago I had no choice but to use 2 8# weights because we left my 12# pancake weights at home and these were on the boat we just bought. I fell in love with the 8# as they worked better than the 12# pancake weights did, with less blowback. I already bought a set of the 10# weights but haven't used them yet. these will give me a great set of spare weights if I ever need them.

MAN, if had had lived close enough to pick them up I would have taken them just for the swivel bases. so if I couldn't get them to work I would have still had a set of swivel bases for my old cannon riggers.

I had no idea they ever made rings for the Dream Weaver Divers, which I believe started out as the cannon deeper divers, but I'm not sure about the brand., I always liked the deeper divers for walleye fishing 65' deep or less. that way with the deeper divers you didn't need to worry about rings like on the dipsey where the rings had a bad habit of coming off.

someone is going to get a great deal on these divers, as they cost a pretty penny for new.

I don't see a lot of interest in what I have. The 17p 5-blade prop has been sold and I think the nets are sold once I check on the shipping cost. but I'll send this back to the top.

I still have the 19p high five prop for V-6 mercury outboards and Mercruiser alpha 1 outdrives for 235 shipped. the 5 blade will get you up much faster the a 3 blade, with much better handling in rough water and in turns.

I still have 5 working Daiwa sg17lca reels and 1 that should be an easy fix and 2 the counters don't work and 1 that a young guy forced the handle backward and messed it up for parts. all for 235.00 shipped.

I have 2 345 GTI level wind reels for 270.00. they both look great and work like new. these would be great for running long lengths of copper or lead core or even wire where counters are not needed and for many saltwater applications. 

1500.00 is as low as I will go on the 02 mercury 9.9 four stroke with electric start, 20" shaft motor. you would be hard-pressed to find an older motor in this condition as it hasn't been used that much. it looks much better than a lot of newer motors. it starts right up and just sits there and purrs, and it is a tiller. there is nothing at all wrong with this motor. and if you buy the motor I will let you buy a used Panther electric trim and tilt for only 300.00 more. you can pick it up in Muncie Indiana or I am willing to drive a few miles to meet up, but you will need to load it yourself. the motor weighs just over 100# and I am 72 and not able to do it. and I guarantee the motor to start and run when you get it back home. i can't warranty it any longer because once you start using it I have no control over how it's used. but I know there will be nothing wrong with the motor when you get it home.

19 hours ago, bob7looch7 said:

Sorry cash deals only

I can send you a postal money order plus pay for shipping. or I can send money through Walmart and all you have to do is go to any local Walmart and pick up cash. once I send it you can pick it up in about 5 minutes after it's sent. if this will work send me a PM.

18 hours ago, Crapshoot said:

I'd buy the cannons and pay for shipping if you'd consider shipping.

if he agrees to ship I am second in line to buy these. I have cannons now but still need 4 more.

3 hours ago, john1947 said:

 

I never said it wasn't a fantastic deal! but who has 1000.00 at 1 time to spend on gear that needs all that gear? with the gear I already have I wouldn't ever use 1/3 of it. but someone just starting out and young could use most of it over the next few years. but just how many young guys just getting started have that much money for tackle?

if anyone can spare 1000.00 this would be a great investment that will save them thousands in the future. I had no intention of starting a firestorm by making a suggestion.

1 hour ago, Jeff Mick said:

I hear you!  I almost bought one 2 years ago.  Ended up picking up an 18 foot Lund Newport.  They made a 21 foot model also in the late 80's early 90's.  I am from CT and don't get up to the big lake that often so I figured an 18 footer would be better for some of the other fishing I do in the CT area. 

 

I attached some pics of the updates I did to my Lund.    

NH #2 671.89 kB · 2 downloads NH pic 732.17 kB · 3 downloads Sanded in DW 715.85 kB · 1 download side paint 693.27 kB · 1 download Back repaint 738.29 kB · 0 downloads outside anthonys 774.58 kB · 1 download Last Pic 706.44 kB · 1 download

back years ago I was using an old 16' deep v boat on Erie for some years. money was tight back then so I had to make do. I am from Tn and moved to In, in 1965, and

 still have family in Tn. On my travels, I kept seeing this old boat sitting under a tree out in the middle of a field. on one trip I stopped and asked just what they had to have for it as everything in it was rotten. the tires on the trailer was flat and rotted. I got a price of what the boat was worth when it had been parked many years ago. I told her the condition of the boat and offered 200.00 for it. she said some guy she knew had told her what to ask for it when it was parked. then she said she would ask him if 200.00 was enough and she would call me.

I was going to be in Tn for a week and thought she might call me. then we went back home giving up on getting the boat. a couple of days later she called and the guy told her if she could still get 200.00 for it she should take it right away.

we got the old boat home and all I wanted was a larger boat for fishing the big water. the white paint was pretty much gone and was just the aluminum hull. i took it over to show it to a friend who owned a body shop. he said if I would have it sandblasted he would paint it for the cost of the paint. my X-brother n law owned a sandblasting shop and my younger brother was his sandblaster. he said to bring it is Saturday and he would blast it for free. I got a beautiful blue metallic paint that made the boat look new.

I knew another guy that had boat parts cheap after he bought out a marina's parts stock. so I got many new parts including a universal steering cable and a part that hooked on the transom to hold the cable so only the inside cable moved. it had had a built-up sun deck in the bow with a walk-through windshield but it was totally rotted out. the floor was in bad shape but where there weren't holes it was still solid.

I tore the rest of the bow out then just put another sheet of plywood over the floor in the back. i cut plywood to fit the bow level with the back floor. then I used about 15 cans of spray foam insulation and filled the bottom on the back with all of it except just enough to fill the bow high enough to be level with the floor in the back. then I took the cut plywood and placed it on top of the styrofoam in the bow and let everything set up.

now I had a heavy aluminum 18' boat that looked new except it didn't have any seats. but at that time there was an RV surplus close to me that had boat lounge seats for only 150.00 a set. that really topped the boat off. I already had a great 80 HP mariner motor that i put on it. but when loaded for Erie it really struggled getting on plane.

but later I passed a prop shop going out of business. the only prop he had that fit my motor was a 15p aluminum prop that I bought for a spare. back then I knew absolutely nothing about pitch. a few trips to Erie later I just tried the 15p prop and to my amazement, it was like a whole new boat. that boat jumped on plane and ran strong. I had thought the motor didn't have enough power, but now it was great on that boat.,

we used that bigger heavy aluminum Cherokee boat for many many years. with it, we could fish if any boats went out except maybe the large charters and a few boats as big. I had the same as a new boat that I only had about 650.00 total except for the motor that was almost a new motor that I had borrowed 1900.00 so I could buy it for my other boat after it blew the old motor.

I have to say I'm very sorry for the book and hijacking your thread. and I had no intentions of writing a book when I started. but I do have copyrights to this post. I only bought a larger 20' Sea Ray with a Mercruiser 260 hp when we moved to the central basin. i have always had a small regret about selling that boat because it would have made an awesome Central Basin boat. the nice thing about it was the heavy gauge aluminum that they used on that boat.

On 9/19/2023 at 8:36 AM, slow rollin said:

8 boxes of trolling spoons, stickbaits, plugs. 10 rod and reel combos and 3 spare rods.  Most lures are brand new never touched water  some still in package.Selling as a lot will not separate. $1000 

I won't even try to tell you how to post this but may I make a suggestion? this would be an awesome buy, but not many guys needing tackle usually don't have nearly 1000.00 to spend at 1 time for tackle. it may take a very long time if ever for someone with 1000.00 for tackle. you might do so much better selling your tackle if you broke it up into smaller lots. i might even buy a spoon lot if it had lots of purples for walleye. like I said this is just a suggestion. I do understand selling the whole lot would be much better for you, but the only time I even came close to 1000.00 was my fish finder which I bought a used HDS 9 GEN3 with a 3D structure scan, transducer, and all cables used very lightly for 850.00 shipped. and when I bought 2 Big Jon pro tournament riggers new off eBay for 525.00 each shipped. and when I upgraded 6 of my old sealine SG reels with new coldwater 203 reels that I did overtime for 80.00 to 90.00 each. the rest of what I have was bought for less than 300.00 at the most.

6 hours ago, Jeff Mick said:

Good Morning,  

 

Just saw this on facebook marketplace.  Maybe a cool project for someone over the winter? 

 

I have no connection to the boat and I am not aware of any additional details.  

 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1335058087436031/

 

Tight Lines  

if a guy has a good motor to put on it this would be an awesome big water boat. plus it's small enough for playing in the water. it's a light boat and should trailer very easily and be easy on gas on the water. a 22' boat is a good size boat for smaller crews. if this was 30 years ago I couldn't pass on this deal. i seen it for sale on FACEBOOK marketplace

6 hours ago, Mike Schuler said:

 

if we made more trips per year we could do that. but we only make a one-week trip per year. I can't believe it hasn't sold at your price by someone upgrading to a larger boat or someone just getting started. they would have to spend more money on half what your offering. good luck my friend.

2 hours ago, Mike Schuler said:

Price is not a typo. The Boat is at Lake Breeze Marina, Point Breeze NY (Oak Orchard River). Call me at 814-598-2186 for more details.

Capt Mike Schuler

I just talked to my son about going to check it out with me as we would be buying it together. after reading your listing he said it was too wide to work for us as we would need to trailer it up to Geneva Ohio each year for fishing Erie's central basin then back home. he said the regs in Ohio and in Indiana didn't allow anything over 8.5' wide to be towed in either state. and they could only be towed with wide load permits and only on certain days. and this just wouldn't work for us. now if we lived closer to the lake where we fished more often then we could dock it or put it in drydock.

as bad as i hate to pass on a buy like this it is just too much boat for us here in east central Indiana. and we must pass on it. i am so sorry. but i can't believe more people aren't interested in such a bargain on a fabulous big water boat.

9 hours ago, Crestliner said:

well then what?

if you will just google it you will learn the pee hole is just a bypass line that doesn't have anything to do with the cooling it's just to show the water pump is pumping water. if the stream is low the first thing is to make sure the line isn't stopped up. if it's still a small weak stream then the next option is the impeller is probably not pumping water like it should. most motors start peeing almost as soon as the motor starts. at idle it should still be a healthy steady stream but when the motor is revved up the stream should get very strong and go out farther from the motor. all the water the pump, pumps doesn't flow into the motor as the thermostats regulate the amount of water it needs to get the motor up to temperature and then keeps it at that temperature. if they let all the fresh cool water in the motor would never get up to temperature. the back pressure is why more water flows out the pee hole.

back when I was a young man and racing cars we just removed the thermostat so more cool water was flowing through the motor. it never even got up to operating temperature even when it was on the track. there was nothing to slow the flow to the motor and let it get up to temperature. the thermostat serves the same purpose in an outboard motor.

the water coming out of the pee hole never enters the inside of the motor but gets hot fast by the exhaust.

I don't know who or what price you guys settled on but if everything like the motor is still in great shape they just made the purchase of the year. any 2008 fishing boat is worth a little more than your boat was priced at the end. I kind'a hope it was someone young that bought it as they will get many, many years of pleasure fishing with this boat at what I believe to be a great price.

just tackle and, riggers, electronics, baits, and extras would have cost a few thousand if they were bought separately. congrats to you on the sale and another congrats to the buyer on a fantastic purchase.