Wargofam

I appreciate that you're fishing out of Sandy, but when fishing out of the Western basin (e.g., Olcott), you can use the following to correlate minutes of latitude and the depth. This should give you a good idea of how the two work together. Good luck.

My two cents on sonar interference: What to look for when experiencing sonar interference issues: •Use good quality resistor type spark plugs with shielded spark plug wires •Air under transducer (bubbles, prop wash, turbulence, etc.) – avoid strake and chine areas •Transducers mounted too close together •Transducer cables bundled too close to nearby power cables (coupling and crosstalk) •Poor grounding of electronics (this is a biggie!) •Clean battery terminals and contacts, recommend dielectric grease to ensure good contact and prevent oxidation •Good idea to run dedicated power to all your individual electronics, and not share power off the same branch circuit •Always best to power an electric trolling motor using its own dedicated battery/batteries •Excess transducer cabling (keep away from alternators and other sources of EMI) •Bundle excess cables in a “Figure 8” instead of creating big loops of cable •Low battery/alternator voltage will cause LOTS of problems! •Interference from multiple transducers using the same frequency •Inspect sonar transducers and cables for damage (e.g., debris, cracking, zip ties, etc.) •Underwater LED lighting can sometimes interfere with sonar •Sonar settings: Traveling at high speeds through the water compresses sonar information. Recommend increasing the scroll speed on your display to stretch out the sonar returns for a better picture. Just be sure to revert your settings when you slow down for trolling as too high of a ping rate will blur out returns. Increase gain, but not too much that you start amplifying clutter Increase “Ping” rate – this effectively increases beam coverage in the water Adjust sensitivity every day to optimize the water conditions for the day All that said, I would avoid using a ferrite core on the transducer cable, as this would likely filter out some of the high-speed sonar data streaming from the transducer to the display unit, resulting in an additional problem. Rather, you'd be much better off placing that ferrite core on the incoming power cable to the sonar display unit. Hope this helps.

The current location for your sonar will likely only work at very slow speeds. You'd be better moving it down about 1 inch (hard to say from the picture) such that the center line of the transducer is inline with the bottom of the hull. You might even consider mounting a piece of starboard on the transom (flush with the bottom) on which you could mount your transducer. This way, you're not constantly drilling more holes in your hull. Check out the following two installation guides as a reference: https://static.garmin.com/pumac/Transducer_Placement_Guide_EN-US.pdf https://static.garmin.com/pumac/GT36_56UHD_TM_Transducer_Installation_EN-US.pdf Good luck!

Awesome pictures, thanks for sharing. Just be sure that your son wears a life jacket. It only takes a split second and everything changes for the worse; especially with the cold water! Enjoy

For those of you who attended this year's salmon school at the Niagara Fishing Expo in February, the instructors emphasized the importance of logging your fishing trip. Once you start building up a set of logs, you should continually study them to see patterns of what works and what doesn't for the various conditions and times of the season. With this in mind, I created the attached PDF template for my boat configuration and wanted to share it in hopes that it would help others too. Good luck! Jim Salmon Fishing Presentation Template.pdf

Here are the Navionics and conventional nautical charts for the same area. The relief shading shown on your chart offers a substantial improvement over the conventional charts! Good share and thank you.

The unit has just been sold. Thank you all for your replies.

The unit includes kits for all standard kicker models. I used it on a Merc 15 pro kicker.

For Sale Troll Master Pro 3+ For Sale Asking $200 TROLL Master is the world's leading remote Throttle & Steering control for auxiliary outboards. Maintain optimum trolling speeds to maximize your catch-salmon, steelhead, trout, walleye, tuna and more. The PRO3 Plus has all the precision speed and direction control of its predecessor, the PRO3, but everything is now controlled with a sleek, wireless remote that you can wear on a lanyard around your neck, keep in a pocket, or mount anywhere on the boat. No more cables to trip over, and no more having to run a cable from the motor to the helm. It features a back-lit display for those times when you're fishing right up to and past sunset when the bite is so hot, you can't leave the water. The rabbit and turtle buttons increase and decrease speed in small increments and keep it there. The controller will go into sleep mode after one minute of inactivity to save power. A quick press of any button will wake it up, and your previous trolling speed will still be set. Easy to install and even easier to use means less time working and more time fishing.

The chart capture below may help you out (see red arrow). Just be sure to stay OUT of Canadian water during the COVID crisis, as we Americans are not welcome in their waters right now. They're taking it very seriously.

I recently purchased a Garmin Panoptix LVS32 with the intention of installing it "rear-facing" on the transom of the boat to watch downriggers for salmon and walleye fishing. I contacted Garmin support and they said it's okay to do provided I follow the usual rules (run it in clean water, avoid interference, etc.). Looking for any advice on tips and techniques for this type of install. Would love to see a picture of an installed transducer where someone did this and find out how well it works. I'd rather do it right the first time.