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Cody191

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Everything posted by Cody191

  1. Thanks to all who replied with suggestions. Over the 4 days I was on Seneca I really only got to fish from 5:30am to about 8-9:00 am daily. Managed to boat 27 lakers in the 18”-25” range. The advice given by LOU members really cut down on my search time. My 4 year old boy had a blast reeling them in. When we were leaving he said dad, now that we’re done fishing can I come buck hunting? Mission accomplished! Gambler rigs and hammerhead cowbells of course did the majority of the work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Thanks guys I’ll give it a go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Hey all, I’ll be traveling up to Seneca this Wednesday through Saturday to hang with some family. I plan to fish mornings and maybe some evenings with my 4 and 6 year olds. Im trying to get them interested and stay interested in fishing. I’ve fished Cayuga a lot but not Seneca. Are there areas on the north end that are better for lakers this time of year? I’ll be out of Sampson. I just want to get them on as many fish as possible even if there small. Keeps them interested. I’ll bring the whole arsenal of spoons, ff,cowbells and gambler rigs. Any starting points would be helpful. If anyone else is around and wants to network I’m more than willing to share anything I figure out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. If you used 40 lb power pro you could get 250 yds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 46 yds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I’m sure both can work. But to me one seems like it’s obviously a better way. Who knows, maybe I’m missing something too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I like fixed sliders. I like knowing exactly where it is and seem to get better hook ups. The downside to stacking on downriggers in a small boat is it uses up 2 rods and if there’s only 2 of you it seems like a waste to stack when you’re only allowed 6 rods. Sliders are freebie lures in the water. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. My opinion is it’s much easier attaching a torpedo to the backer where it connects to your weighted line. You just let out the amount of backer it takes to get the torpedo down to where you want the extra depth. For example, I have a 200’ ws that goes say 40’. But I want 80’. I attach a musky torpedo on backer at ws connection. Reference torpedo chart for speed and let out enough line to take torpedo to 40’. Now lure should be roughly 80’. It is close as verified by fish hawk TD. If you attach the torpedo to the leader end of the leadcore you will change the five curve of the lead core. Who knows where it would be. You would probably have to create your own custom dive curve chart through testing. This way also is stealthier as the torpedo is running 40’ above lure not right in front of it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Yes I do. I have a couple 200’ weighted steels I’ve run as 300 and 400’ with torpedo attached. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Guess I didn’t realize long lining reels were so niche. And this might sound dumb to some but am I the only right handed person who thinks the reel crank should be on the left side? I mean I don’t know any right handed person who uses a spinning rod with the crank on the right. In my mind you should hold the rod with your dominant hand and crank with the other. It will drive me insane if I have left and right handed reels on the boat.
  11. Is it just me or does nobody make a size 40 or 50 high speed line counter reel in left hand retrieve? I feel like I’ve looked at all the big name reel makers. The biggest I can find is a tekota A 600. Am I missing something? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Like said, everyone has their preferences. I love my magnum metals. Simple up and down and clutch is outstanding. I’ve never lost gear yet but I also run braid instead of cable. I’ve hung up in trees a lot on my local lake and the clutch let’s out line like the drag on a reel so you can go retrieve your gear. I was initially concerned about parts being a smaller company but parts are hard to come by these days no matter what it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I’m converting some rods I have to wire line duty. I want to install swivel roller tips. My question, for those of you have done it. Assuming I get the right size tip, can it just be epoxied on like I do with a twili tip? Everything I’ve found online shows them also wrapping and epoxying the thread. This is not a tuna rod but wanted to make sure I’m not missing something before I install it like I would a twili. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I agree, unless there’s a physical reason you can’t lift the motor. I loved my terrova. The only reason I got an ulterra is I couldn’t find a terrova 36v with 72” shaft and I pilot link. I’ve had no problems with the auto deploy/stow yet but I’m sure it’s a matter of time. More moving parts, especially with electronics is not a good thing in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Yeah when I was up Wednesday it was flat calm, full sun and gin clear water. Definitely not ideal conditions and it was a bit of a grind getting my 3. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. The main reason I like networking the motor to the graph is I can see my course heading on the chart and I can accurately follow contours and such. To me link is well worth the money. You can also control all the motor functions from graph. You don’t even need the remote. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Keep in mind if you do go with a minn Kota and humminbird setup, to get the full use of networking the trolling motor needs to be I pilot link, not just I pilot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. I know a 24v will work fine but I would get a36v if you have the room. Nobody ever complains about to much run time or power. My 36v pulls my 21’ pretty easily. If I know it’s not going to be an all day fishing event I won’t even fire up the kicker because I can pull down riggers and dipseys for at least 5-6 hours with my 36v ulterra. I sincerely believe I catch more fish when I don’t run the kicker. I love silent trolling. As mentioned get a longer shaft if it will fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. Made the 2.5 hour trip up solo this morning because it’s getting harder and harder to find anyone to get up at 2:30 to go fishing. Anyway, on the water by 5:30. Set up in 20’ and had a hit while putting in first rod. Then fished towards the point from 10-30’ and had blank screens. Moved out to 40-50’ and went 3 for 3 on browns down 25’. All on same purple clown spoon. Pulled out about 11:00. Stopped by Whitney point reservoir on way home for a couple hours and landed 11 small walleye. Long day with lots of driving but hey it was worth it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I use one of these diving stringers hooked to a cleat with paracord. Just bend the tip over so it looks like a snap swivel and can’t pull out with a heavy load. Way cleaner than the bucket method especially if you have a small boat. Bonk them, cut them then drag along boat for a minute. Storm Heavy Duty Scuba Divers Fish Stringer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MLEJ9TQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RC73T353HFNG47H1A1GW Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. I used 2 part epoxy. No issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. On a surge system, when you try to back up it usually slides the actuator forward locking up the brakes. To move in reverse you either install a lockout tab on the tongue to keep actuator from moving or install a bypass solenoid in which you need trailer plugged into tow vehicle and when your reverse lights come on the solenoid opens releasing your brakes to back up. Possible your other trailers were not surge systems or nothing you’ve ever had worked. Idk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. How would adding 1/2” of length to the cable change anything at all with the actuation. It won’t, it only actuates if it comes un hitched. As long as the cable is shorter than the distance of the chains when it drops it will work fine. Where I live the roads are so filled with potholes I’ve had the s hook bounce off. The downside to a threaded link is if you pull away without disconnecting it won’t bend. You’ll break something. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I have an alumacraft on an ez loader trailer. Cables are hooked behind swing tongue but run through a bracket near the hitch to give it the support it needs at ball. Brake lines are clear as day at hubs, and I put a threaded chain link on my s hook. Works better for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Is it possible that the trailer mfg uses the standard surge brake actuator on every trailer but if the original customer doesn’t buy a brake package they just don’t install the brakes and lines? Seems the only possibility unless someone removed the brake system which doesn’t seem likely. It’s definitely a surge brake actuator. If there’s no lines running back to and between the hubs then it must not have brakes. Seems like it would be easy to verify. If no brakes the break away cable is useless anyway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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