13owhunter

I think its worth noting that terminating weighted steel is a lot more difficult than copper. I never liked crimps and they dont go through the guides very well. Personally, I splice weighted steel but it is very difficult especially if you dont have very good eyes. The trick is to pull leaders off the spool 7 times (for luck). Mine end up at about 38' when done (I'm pretty tall). Your length may vary but it is the 7 pulls that infuses a bit of luck that is the secret =0)

I dont see much advantage in using just a snap in most trolling applications. If I was really worried about impacting the action of the lure or wanted additional stealth I would, personally, tie direct. I use small good quality ball bearing snap swivels in the 50# range on the business end of just about everything I pull. Really cant say i ever had an issue with line twist even when I can see a lure helicoptering on the way back in.

Getting a new license with the icon was actually pretty cheap @ $14.

I second Gator's advice. The one in the link is way too powerful for putting in a tote. Youd need to turn it on for less than 30 seconds. I have a smaller 120v one in a portable closet and that is too powerful as well. I stopped using the one in my portable closet because I didnt want to expose any of my gear that I wasnt wearing that day. I have a rechargeable one (link below) that I like. Quality is questionable but its a lot cheaper than the name brand ones and you can bring it with you. Pretty sure I got it on sale at amazon for around $50. I throw it in a tote with my outer layers and turn on for a couple of minutes. https://www.amazon.com/Airthereal-PA1K-GO-000mg-Portable-Generator/dp/B08V8N5XNQ/ref=sr_1_3_pp?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VskF8wxxD-9w4kbbTdhnYZUCJlXUOLGEW42umU5TRak4yBnqB9lfHWBUYu7HtqvMd5lSs4aHoiVssMe16IlnuEw4rdvce4f5sdSg3Jt5_amudhc-X1lMQcvNlyB-d07DqJCGkXq5XCMk8pvJ8zNZh3C-mclby-Z45LN-S4YObcQ1LsnsTShOolobJyISSaZxE0CZVG5SEVIQszPKeTrezsvSdFyeCLI3VjAd5zyHJq4.zDKN_9gZHEbbCIxvcenm7cQq8LiPdX0dBpsraioEt2s&dib_tag=se&keywords=ozone+generator&qid=1724760722&sr=8-3

I found a kink in my wire after one year of hardly any use and went right to braid. Pretty sure the kink would have lowered the breaking strength considerably. No idea how it got there. Wire is simply not forgiving and difficult to terminate. Very confident in 200# braid tied to a 400# swivel with a palomar knot and a snubber to ball. I do use big john riggers and they take a few feet to come to a stop which seems like the way all riggers should act.

I didnt notice much of a difference when i switched. Maybe a little less line out due to less blowback. I think the spools on most riggers are big enough a few MM difference in diameter isnt likely to be a problem. FWIW, I went with 200# and would go to 150 if i had to do it again.

Agree with the above statement however I did some research and have to correct myself. There are a couple of different chemistries used in current standard 18650 type cells depending on the application. The newer chemistries like LiFePo4 (and 2 or 3 other common ones) are not prone to fires like the older lion type batteries.

There are a different types of "Lithium" batteries with different chemical properties. Lithium iron phosphate batteries are not prone to catching fire like lithium ion batteries. Almost all the instances of "lithium" batteries catching fire, exploding etc are NOT LiFePo4. Don't take my word for it, do a quick google search for LiFePo4 vs Lithium Ion. A good LiFePo4 battery should be safer than an AGM battery simply because most of them have an onboard computers (BMS) and temperature sensors which will protect it in the event of overheating, bad charger etc. This technology is here to stay.

LiFePO4 batteries are much less prone to fires than other types of lithium batteries. At this point you can get good ones on amazon for about $200 a piece (Weize) which, in my opinion, makes AGM batteries obsolete. Less than half the weight, lasts 10x longer and holds full voltage all the way to 0%. Only downside I see is you cant charge them below freezing. Really not an issue for me as my setup is easily disconnected and brought inside. These batteries are just a bunch of 3.6v cells with a computer controlling charging. Same cells that are used in everything these days, power tools, flashlights EVs etc.

Here is a link to a really good article. I followed the advice and had much better luck with these. I forgot to mention it also matters which way you wrap the line around the nipple. These releases are frustrating until you figure it out. Once you do they work great. If yours arent tripping try setting the tension screw VERY light. https://fishingaddictiongear.com/blogs/fishin-talk/off-shore-tackle-or39-sams-pro-release

Are you using the "Sams Pro" style release? If so the orientation matters as does whether it is mounted directly to the board or attached with a large o ring. It also helps to set the release VERY light even pulling heavy lines. If not, let us know what style release you are using.

I dont think most folks do anything about this. I have heard of people getting a toothbrush and washing with soap but that seems absurd to me. I think your time would be better off spent checking gear on the boat or at home. Personally, if i cared about this I would add scent to my lures. I have in the past and didnt notice any difference in catch rate but it did make a sticky mess.

You can mount any of the livescope transducers to the transom with the mount that they come with and use it for down view. Problem is that it needs to be mounted UNDER the bottom of the boat such that the whole thing sticks out. That seems like a really bad idea. I have a lvs32 that I mount on the transom via removeable "kayak" style clamp on mount. It has its drawbacks but also works. I did this because I wanted the other capabilities of the transducer such as forward and perspective view. ( i will move it to the trolling motor for that) The PS30 is better if you only want to use it in a trolling application. I can see a flasher spin with the lvs32 down 70-80 feet but the resolution isnt great. That said it has a lot of advantages over the ps30 in shallow applications, viewing structure etc.

I'm going to hold you responsible if we don't crush it in the morning after making this call! =0)

Im assuming that the issue is getting wrapped around stuff and chewing up your line and not "snapping the line" due to "horsing" them in.

As a light line purist, I cringe a bit at the thought of using heavier line than absolutely necessary but you have me thinking. I'll be out in the morning with someone that is more inexperienced than I normally fish with and I have 15# on a few rigs. Probably a good idea to swap out some leaders this evening..... Leaders on F/F shouldnt matter much anyways but 50# flouro is getting pretty stiff. Wonder if flouro even matters. A bit of stretch with mono isnt a bad thing with newbies behind the reel.

I can't seem to get mine calibrated very well but its reasonably close. No reason not to try and get it as close as you can even if its really just for a reference. Interested to see what others have to say about this. I fiddled with mine for a long time and couldnt get it as close as i would have wanted to. If there is a trick, Im all ears......