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tyler.woodard04

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Everything posted by tyler.woodard04

  1. tyler.woodard04
    My kicker is rigged with remote throttle. I use this in conjunction with my TM to maintain speed and heading. The trouble i run into is the ease the throttle lever gets bumped or just moves while in use and the RPM's move, normally down. I know there are electronic throttle controls systems out there, just wondering if there is any manual twist knob type throttle controls even if it is engine mounted. Thinking like some of the older equipment and tractors had. Seems like this would hold the setting better and possibly be able to fine tune the speed more easily. Thanks
  2. tyler.woodard04
    PSE Compound Matthews Compound Matthews recurve Barnett Crossbow 12 ga 870 rifled 20 ga 1187 rifled Savage 10 ML II TC Encore 7mm-08 15" Smith 1911 45 ACP Savage Striker 6BRX 15 7/8" Savage Striker 7mm WSM 15 7/8" Smith 686 357mag Savage 25-06 Savage 7mm-08 Savage 7mm WSM Marlin 45-70 guide gun Still trying with Smith 29 44 Mag Savage Striker 50 ML 15"
  3. tyler.woodard04
    thank you. anyone backing up the knot at the board with a washer to help distribute the weight? may not be needed just curious. also what is the target length of each leg of the rope? thinking the loop needs to be forward of center?
  4. tyler.woodard04
    I built a skeg ext for my trolling motor, I lock the kicker straight and just under desired speed. then use the trolling motor to get to target speed and use the speed control to maintain. adjust accordingly for current and wind ext. then just set the heading and the trolling motor does its thing to maintain the speed and heading. seems to work for me. the extra surface area on the skeg of the trolling motor definitely helped maintain the heading better.
  5. tyler.woodard04
    Motor that was on a 14' sea nymph, dad had a hard time getting it going so he bought a 9.9 4 stroke. Ran last year. Make an offer
  6. tyler.woodard04
    If that does not workout I'll take them
  7. tyler.woodard04
    thank you. Ill let you know
  8. tyler.woodard04
    Bought some used boats and I need to make new pull point harnesses. Any recommendations for what to use?
  9. tyler.woodard04
    Now I follow, both motors would charge all batteries but only draw off the main crank, isolating the trolling batteries from the main on the discharge side. Thank you
  10. tyler.woodard04
    I guess my question then is why charge the main motor crank battery also? It will charge while running to the fishing spot. The downriggers pull from there also but that is minimal. I would not be looking to completely charge the TM batteries but keep them from depleting as quickly.
  11. tyler.woodard04
    Always have a fully charged jump pack under the helm just in case.
  12. tyler.woodard04
    Will it fit a 2011 mercury 9.9 pro kicker?
  13. tyler.woodard04
    Good idea
  14. tyler.woodard04
    yes, boat only had 1 battery in the bow when i bought it. added a second for runtime
  15. tyler.woodard04
    From what I can tell my kicker is equipped with charging. Currently run this motor fixed straight and run the speed just under the target speed and use my Terrova to steer and fine tune the speed. I have 2 31 size batteries running the trolling motor (12V) Any reason I should not run the cables from the kicker to the trolling batteries?
  16. tyler.woodard04
    agreed, i have them for my divers. was curious on the spyderloks for the adjustable tree they have for planers.
  17. tyler.woodard04
    Any adapter needed?
  18. tyler.woodard04
    has anyone had a chance to verify spyderlock track with any of the other manufactures accessories? or the spyderlock accessories in a berts or cannon track?
  19. tyler.woodard04
    Morning, looking for some of the dual axis track mount rod holders with the rectangular bases. thank you
  20. tyler.woodard04
    What size swivel have you found that will go through the opening on the reels?
  21. tyler.woodard04
    Thank you for the response
  22. tyler.woodard04
    I'm no opposed to switching tips either. Thank you
  23. tyler.woodard04
    Maybe I'm not being clear on what I'm trying to do. With my small boat I try to break the rods down for transport. With wire we all know kinks are one of the problems. If I add 15' or so of braid to the wire then the dipsy I can break the rods down and not have to worry about kinking or loose wire that want to twist. The braid would go from the wire to the diver. Would a small swivel that can come over the tip roller and though the eyes be best? Is there a braid to wire knot that works well so the swivel won't hang up when reeling in a fish?
  24. tyler.woodard04
    Please do, thank you
  25. tyler.woodard04
    I'm looking to add some heavy (65lb) braid to the end of my wire line so I can break the rods down for easier storage on my small boat and not kink the wire or let it get curly. Is there a recommended knot or termination to do this?
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