FishingNYS

Any recommendations for a 1970 gm L6 250 rebuild? Motor just started knocking. Wasn't from low oil.  

29 minutes ago, minnowcatcher said:

Oh man hope its ok! That's a fluke that shouldn't have happened. I had a bolt come off an air cleaner went into the motor and bent a valve I didn't believe it until I pulled it apart. Good luck

 

 

It has rod knock on cylinder 5. I have to pull the head and see if the valve hit the piston. But was running good for being 1970. Suddenly after that happened it's got the knock... Going to wait till winter and pull the motor. I still need to do a compression test and leak down to see if it needs to rebuild the whole thing or if I can get away with just a lower end build. Hopefully the crank can just be polished a little and a new bearing put in. But with my luck I doubt it. 

So I bought another cheap fuel pump just to see what the pin looked like that held the cam tang or pump lever what ever it's called... Hex head... OEM was rounded studs with resin over one end to stop it from coming out.... Now that it took almost 4 or 5 weeks to get the new one... I gotta put it in and see if in lifters/valves got bent or any cam damage... Cheaper part may have caused and expensive lesson

Rounded over threaded stud came out of tang and mashed all the threads. Now my boat has rod knock.... Not very happy

 Started in 80fow worked out to 200. No marks, no bait, one small king in 180fow . Rigger down 53 but cheater took the fish.  Did another pass through, another small king on cheater. One last pass and got a coho. On the cheater. No other lines took fish and only UV wonder bread caught fish.  Not sure why lead core, copper, and dipsey divers won't take fish but I guess I'll be adding another rigger to the boat and skipping on junk lines if I go out solo fishing 

Moved blue to far left post where main power comes in and left purple where it is. Switches started working(sometimes). Got the outdrive to go all the way up. Put it down it goes halfway down then it would lift back up slightly. Bleed the line to get it to go all the way down and check for air... Now it won't go up and just free spins. Fluid was topped off before and after bleeding... 

Drained all the fluid again put new fluid in... Went up goes down halfway and goes back up. The valve body is the same as the old one. 

Only thing I can come up with is maybe something in the valve is plugged??? Or the solenoid is weak. But even when I jump from the main battery and ground it... Sometimes it goes up, some times it just free spins...  

Had to put a "new" used trim pump in. After I got it in, it trims up really fast, goes down half way... I have to stand on it and have someone push the button but when it gets down it starts raising it back up. Also seems like it gets stuck half way. Everything worked last Sunday till I pull the boat out and tried lifting the motor so I doubt it's the rams.

My phone didn't save the picture of the wiring. It's a plug with red blue green but two other wires light blue and purple... I put the blue to the left front post of solenoid and the purple to the right big stud that the blue motor wire goes to. Trailer button worked for it to go up but not the up button. Solenoid just clicks for up. We are supposed to go on Lake O tomorrow but if I can't get the trim to work right I'll be trying to figure that out instead 

6 Lakers

1 rainbow

And a lamprey fishing Cayuga.

Bite was hot from sun rise to 7:30. I'm assuming the eel got snagged when a fish swiped the lure. No way it hit the spoon right? Didn't have time to take a pic. Just returned it to the lake in 5 pieces 

Lots views no answers so went ahead and did the upper driveshaft seals. 4.5 hrs and bent almost ever chainsaw file point I had. Good thing I keep old warn out files around. Fold the edges around  with a straight pick which somehow made a perfect hook at the end for getting the seals out. I have to get a water pump rebuild kit but I think this oldy is ready to go again. MarineEngine had the parts that no one else had. Nice exploded view of the parts I needed. If you got a off year, I would look there for anyone in the future struggling to find parts

Older Lowerance that came with the boat. I have a newer Garmin but I haven't put it on because the Lowerance worked on Finger Lakes. But it doesn't read the ball like the Garmin does. Garmin when trolling we can see the ball and fish rise up to it( Not lake O tested yet) 

I have never had a fish on the graph but have had bites. Usually no fish, no bait, sens all the way up.  It works on the finger lakes. I just assume these fish are streaking in from outside the cone. Is this common or should we be searching more for pods like we do for stacked Lakers in the finger lakes?

On the water. 1 for 3. A swing and a miss. Next one was 60' down on rigger. Same with the next one but got wrapped in my dipsey line and broke the cheater line. Dead after 9 am. Can't buy a bite

Any buddy been out of sodus?  Couple of us want to come up tomorrow .  Also is there a better ramp then the municipal. I don't like loading my big boat on the hill.  Any info would be great. We fished Sodus a few times last year and struggled.

Thanks for the info. If I can figure out how to upload a video of it running I'll post it. It's a good classic. Someone had it inspected in 2017. A little work and she'll clean up nice

We got it up to 24mph sog @3900 rpms. Seemed to run good at 4100. I didn't push it much harder because my kicker motor pull cord broke and didn't wanna be out there with no back up or tools to get the pull start off. We probably never got it fully on plane because my fishing partner told us not to go over 3200...  He probably read the manual and it says first 10 hrs of break in don't go over 3200 but the boat is well over its 10 hr breaking period lol

I haven't put it over 3200 rpms. Was told not to run it over that but then I looked in the original owners manual and believe it says 3900- 4300 I believe. I'll measure the prop when I get home.  Going to go out later and see how it operates at the higher rpms.  I can't remember if the original outdrive had cavitation fins or not. The new outdrive has holes drilled for them. I can take the outdrive off and spin the prop or pop the top off and count teeth. I'm going by the sticker on the outside and specs based on mercruiser chart

Honestly, I was doing other things whenmy fishing partner at the time tested it out after we stuck bellows in, changed water pump. Problem was he didn't check the out drive oil or something and top end went. I just called the guy who was in the boat when it blew and he said 20 to 25.  If I could get 20 to 25 mph I would be happy.  Might of been a prop seals that went bad. I can't remember exactly why it went. 

Trying to figure out what my top speed for a 23' avenger with a 165 in should be. It won't go over 12 mph. Motors not struggling. Carb has  been cleaned and rebuilt. 

The original out drive went bad.  Old case got swapped out for a 3.7litre out drive, which is a 1.84 gear ratio and the 165 is also 1.84. 

Brand new prop on it so I assumed the hub wasn't spun out of it.

I can do a compression test but I really don't think that's the issue. Maybe she's just slow? But shouldn't I be getting between 25 and 30 mph on a flat day wot? I know she's old but it's been a great boat together out of the sun and troll with

I guess I should also mention it is a inline 6

Put air through the weep hole and air came out between prop shaft and upper seal.  Put fluid on top of the seal, let it sit for a few hours, fluid didn't leak down.  Reassembling it and going to run it in a tank to see if water gets in it again. Ordered seals either way going to add water pump kit to the list since rubber seal looks old but pump fin was new. 

I'm pretty sure this is a bad seal. Oil coming out of the weep hole beside intake vents. I've used it couple times on Lake Ontario and had no problems last year. This year, use it twice and gear oil weeping out.