Riggers that only lift 10#s

[PAP]

well I’ve been in the starter & alternator business for mucho many years. I have threw many different senecio’s said there’s got to be away to make these units stronger!!! I think I found the answer to this solution!!! I did it with an Invader rigger which I have 7 of. If this proves to be the answer to the motors, then the older mag 10’s this theory I got going on will work with any rigger the uses a permanent mangnet and brushes and an armature!!! Ok question, is the the guts, worm gear and the ring gear, plastic, which so does the mag 20’s what would be the weak link to say this isn’t going to work???. Would this be an interest to folks or am I just an old guy that can’t throw away a good working rigger, laid to the cause it won’t do what is called for in Lake'O….?

[Fishnatzee]

Pap,

 

I'm with you on the old school thinking...I have two like new Mag 10s I would like to put a larger weight on.

 

Dave

[mr 580]

The early Mag 10’s had a right angle gear drive with three plastic pucks that would disintegrate when heavier weights were used.  Motor wouldn’t fail the drive would and when it did you had free fall.  Back in the 70’s and 80’s when those were designed guys were using 6,8 and some 10lb weights.  Motor and drive were one sealed unit-parts not available in years.  Upgrading would require motor and drive system redo.  

[PAP]

Fishnateez, I want to put this rigger to the test out on our local dead hole to see just how well it works in a actual situation, I put many, many hrs into this and finally I have it down pat. The best part I can use your motor to do it!! No retrofitting something else in its place!! Well I’ll continue on make a video of the invader lifting 16 pounds with less amp draw as to the original motor

[PAP]

7 hours ago, mr 580 said:

The early Mag 10’s had a right angle gear drive with three plastic pucks that would disintegrate when heavier weights were used.  Motor wouldn’t fail the drive would and when it did you had free fall.  Back in the 70’s and 80’s when those were designed guys were using 6,8 and some 10lb weights.  Motor and drive were one sealed unit-parts not available in years.  Upgrading would require motor and drive system redo.  

Ok that’s what led to that question!! Just like my younger years. Build a big hp motor for your car and it won’t take long to find the weak spot!! Thanks for your in put!! I made a coupler up for a motor of strength that would eliminate the Mr. 580 information and my second guess when I pulled that housing off along with the old gears and motor. I was pleasantly surprised as to what I was seeing!! Easy way to adapt a motor directly, now I’m trying to find a happy medium with rpm’s. The math comes to 1300 rpm’s could get away with a little more rpm’s. For every action there’s always a reaction, I used the speed of the retrieval in feet verses rpm of the motor its self. So there’s a trade off in this way of doing it, I lose a little speed but I gain torque, believe or not I’m getting less of a draw amperage, which mean less heat. Well I’m still not sure which way I’m going with it but I’ll keep ya posted. I have lots of units for parts so maybe I should be looking into a couple of the mag 20’s I have laying around to see what they got going on for drive trans🤙🤙🤙