Boat Wash

[RH93]

This may be a silly question.

 

This is the first season I have left the boat in the water. (normally a trailer to the lake every trip, kind of guy). The boat has been in the water for almost a month, and is starting to get a little scum line building up. How do you guys that leave your boat in the water year round, wash your hulls? Do you pull them out and wash them? Can you wash a boat while its docked at a marina? 

[lrg355]

Aluminum or fiberglass?   

[lrg355]

Slimey grimey on fiberglass, Purple Power Aluminum Brightener on Alum

[SamonSez]

13 hours ago, RH93 said:

This may be a silly question.

 

This is the first season I have left the boat in the water. (normally a trailer to the lake every trip, kind of guy). The boat has been in the water for almost a month, and is starting to get a little scum line building up. How do you guys that leave your boat in the water year round, wash your hulls? Do you pull them out and wash them? Can you wash a boat while its docked at a marina? 

Do you want the good news, or the bad news?

 

The good news, you can get it done. The bad news, you are not going to have fun.

 

I have an older boat that was never kept in the water. Pristine hull. Then I put it in a marina of LO. OMG! How can that much crap stick to my hull in just 1 season? Powerwasher, nada. Household products, bust. Some say toilet bowl cleaner works. I say, if you are going to get out the chemicals, use the tool that was designed for the task. Do not do this in the water and plan on a full day (or 2) just in case.

 

*BEFORE* you start this process, get heavy gaunlet rubber gloves, a face shield, a gas vapor respirator (not a paint respirator; it must be rated or chemical gas; about $50), potentially even a protective suit. I am the kind of guy that if a bone is not sticking out or I see blood, I am ok. So trust me when I say, you need the PPE. These chemicals will get in your lungs, drop you to your knees, and have you running for air. But after trying many other methods, this one works.

 

1) Cover your trailer with polyethylene clear painters plastic. Do not get chemicals on metal or painted surfaces, like your I/O.

2) Put on protective gear. 

3) Get out the Kates On & Off (read, hydrochloric acid!).

4) Use full strength. A gallon goes a long way. The chemistry does the work more than the elbow grease (but you will both).

5) Use a thin green scrubby, nothing with a sponge attached that will hold too much volume to run down your arm.

6) Pour a little bit in a 5 gallon bucket.

7) Dip the scrubby in the liquid and shake off the extra.

Lightly wet the area with the chemical and let it work for a minute. Then scrub to loosen debris.

9) Immediately rinse with water before it dries. If using a powerwasher, be careful of surrounding plants, animals, houses, etc.

10) Around your I/O or painted surfaces, you can use a user "friendlier" product called Bar Keepers Friend.

11) Wax wax, wax...this is the best proventative measure. Also, do the work in the fall as soon as you pull the boat out of the water.

 

Some may comment or complain about using harsh chemicals, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. It wasn't my first choice, but it ended up being my final choice. If your boat is newer or has a good coat of wax, maybe you can get away with just Bar Keepers. 

 

Best of luck to you...

[SamonSez]

For what it's worth, I have not tried Star Brite Slime & Grime or Slimy Grimy. If that product works and it's not toxic, so much the better. 

Edited May 27, 2023 by SamonSez

[EKoselny]

I agree that chemicals are the only thing that is going to work. I have had decent luck using ZEP brand Calcium Lime and Rust remover from Lowes, and a power washer. I buy a gallon and use a battery powered sprayer to apply it. You will want to power wash all the live algae and grime off first. Then spray the CLR remover on all of the crusty build up. you will see it foam up instantly as it breaks down the calcium and lime. Let it sit for a while, maybe 30 minutes, then power wash off. Most of the build up comes off with this. But yes, I usually have to go back and hit up areas a second time. I also have some On-Off and man that stuff is HARSH!!!! Wear PPE if using. I have only used this to apply to small areas that the CLR stuff didn't clear off after two rounds. IT sucks, it takes a while, and by the time you are done you will want to bottom paint it for next year. 

[spoonfed-1]

Slimy grimy (enviormentally friendly)  and a pressure washer on fiberglass. Whatever of the dark skumline at the water line that doesn't come off with the slimy grimy I hit with a little acetone on a rag. Bottom paint and wax will make the job so much easier at the end of the season. As well as prevent blistering of the gel coat.

Edited May 27, 2023 by spoonfed-1

[ontherise]

5 hours ago, SamonSez said:

Do you want the good news, or the bad news?

 

The good news, you can get it done. The bad news, you are not going to have fun.

 

I have an older boat that was never kept in the water. Pristine hull. Then I put it in a marina of LO. OMG! How can that much crap stick to my hull in just 1 season? Powerwasher, nada. Household products, bust. Some say toilet bowl cleaner works. I say, if you are going to get out the chemicals, use the tool that was designed for the task. Do not do this in the water and plan on a full day (or 2) just in case.

 

*BEFORE* you start this process, get heavy gaunlet rubber gloves, a face shield, a gas vapor respirator (not a paint respirator; it must be rated or chemical gas; about $50), potentially even a protective suit. I am the kind of guy that if a bone is not sticking out or I see blood, I am ok. So trust me when I say, you need the PPE. These chemicals will get in your lungs, drop you to your knees, and have you running for air. But after trying many other methods, this one works.

 

1) Cover your trailer with polyethylene clear painters plastic. Do not get chemicals on metal or painted surfaces, like your I/O.

2) Put on protective gear. 

3) Get out the Kates On & Off (read, hydrochloric acid!).

4) Use full strength. A gallon goes a long way. The chemistry does the work more than the elbow grease (but you will both).

5) Use a thin green scrubby, nothing with a sponge attached that will hold too much volume to run down your arm.

6) Pour a little bit in a 5 gallon bucket.

7) Dip the scrubby in the liquid and shake off the extra.

Lightly wet the area with the chemical and let it work for a minute. Then scrub to loosen debris.

9) Immediately rinse with water before it dries. If using a powerwasher, be careful of surrounding plants, animals, houses, etc.

10) Around your I/O or painted surfaces, you can use a user "friendlier" product called Bar Keepers Friend.

11) Wax wax, wax...this is the best proventative measure. Also, do the work in the fall as soon as you pull the boat out of the water.

 

Some may comment or complain about using harsh chemicals, but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. It wasn't my first choice, but it ended up being my final choice. If your boat is newer or has a good coat of wax, maybe you can get away with just Bar Keepers. 

 

Best of luck to you...

This is about it...i had my boat bottom painted and kept in braddocks cess pool for 1 season,.the bottom is now stained for life or until the paint wears off I guess.needless to say it's now in my driveway and free of spider turds.