Coated cable, how to use and not lose probe

[jer9580]

I bought a cannon s+t unit, lined up with coated cable and loved the unit, that is until this weekend when it found a new home at the bottom of the lake! This was only my 4th trip with the unit and it's already costing me a fortune. I am thinking of going to a sub troll just for the cheaper probe replacement. But before I spend more money I would like to feel confident in not losing that to. The cable itself broke losing everything.

It broke right at my release which was a roemer, it broke right where it clips on with the metal folding clip on top. Are these releases that tough on dr cables? Is there a heavier lb test cable I can buy? The cable I have is brand new and has never hit bottom or been in a tangle and I don't see a single nick in it. But like I said it broke right on the release which was also brand new and really burns my a## that a $12 product cost me $350. What types of setups do you guys use with the coated cable so not to lose probes. Oh and I was only running a 10# ball. I had built a custom bracket for the probe that was seen on here, used a lighter cable from there to the ball for a break away cable and thought it was fool proof, but none of that matters when the cable breaks 2' above it and the whole lot goes down. I liked the roemer release until it broke my cable. I liked that I could crank the rod tip down yet still have a pretty light setting for for the fish to release, and I liked having it above the probe and not having to worry about it getting tangled in it. Wish I could get heavier downrigger coated cable, about 10,000 lb test. Any tips or thoughts on what is going wrong would be appreciated.

[IRISH56]

jer9580 - I am not familiar with the Roemer release and how it attaches to the cable so I can't help you there. That must be very frustrating, I've lost rigger-balls due to the ball being dropped into the water as opposed to being lowered The cable will snap fairly easily with a significant force applied. It sounds like the release caused a weak spot on the cable from what you described.

I don't attach any release to the coated cable, I use a Black's release that is permanently installed in-line on the cable so it doesn't cause any fraying of the coating.

DAN

[ray koziatek]

jer the roamers i have put very little pressure and even can slip with age if you trailer or run with balls on the hook this causes a weak spot at the bend near the pully end i found this out the seat of the pants way (twice ) never had a break sence This is one reason i like the fishawk put it down to find info theN get it out of there JUST IN CASE....THE TWO FEET sounds like the bend near the pully even without a weight a strong rigger puts lots of pressure there in storage

[Gill-T]

I am with ray on this one, get your readings and get that probe out once your course is set on a good depth. I will put it back on if making moves in search mode in a North/South troll on south shore of Lake O in case I troll across a temp break.

[am1325]

Just got a used fish hawk. Wondering how to hook the probe up to the rigger. I want to be able to remove it for travel etc. Any ideas?

[jer9580]

I made mine so I could take the probe off, and I never trailered or ran with it hooked up, not even the balls. I hook them up when ready to go down only, also I don't reel the downriggersup tight, but I do run them the whole time I am fishing and I guess I won't anymore, get my info and get it back to safety. Thanks for the tips, I still would like to hear if anyone else has had any problems with the roemers causing a weak spot.

Gill t I made an aluminum bracket for mine, and used connectors for the wire so could be easily removed, let me see if I have a pic

[jer9580]

This is a pic a fellow member sent me to show me, it worked great, but can't save you if your cable breaks up above it, pretty sure nothing can! Not sure how the fish hawk set up is but if it is similar to the cannon this is easy and works great

[FLXTroutman]

your connection could probably be simplified, Clincher or Black's release above the probe, as depicted in photo below

or you can strip cable, use a thimble (steel type not SS) 3 or 4 crimps and Scotch 130 C Linerless Rubber Splicing Tape

this allows removal of probe for travel on the road or up on plane. My probe stays down all the time, how else do you know speed at the ball if you bring her up and put her away. If you make your connections solid, trust your work and use it as intended.

[Gill-T]

I rigged the clincher as shown in years past, and it worked great....however I have been running a #20 shark this year and the clincher kind of scared me. With a #20llb shark $100.00 + probe I did not want to find out the hard way whether the clincher will hold all that weight. So after scratching my head in the offseason (I am bald), I rigged up a Cannon terminal attachment and stripped a large tag of extra cable coming out the end. Then I threaded the extra uninsulated cable around and thru the eye of the terminal swivel. There are at least five points of contact of the wire on the metal terminal swivel eye to transmit the signal up the coated cable and I have the piece of mind of the strength of the cannon termination.

[chinook35]

I've been running the SNT and Roemer together for at least 5 years and never had a problem. I always thought the wimpy 135# cable that Cannon supplied was a weak point. The second year of owning the SNT I bought a spool of 150# Mason coated cable from Stamina and have breathed a little easier ever since. I reterminate every year at the start of the salmon fishing season and scrape off a new spot for the contact point of the probe, I also crimp on a ring connector (electrical) for the safety wire so it can't just slide off the cable if I loose a ball. Been running 12 - 13 # weights exclusively .There must have been a crimp in the cable and you just happened to put your Roemer over it. I guess none of us have to worry about replacing a SNT probe. The SNT has gone the way of the dinosaur.

[jer9580]

That's how I had mine attached was with the cannon terminator and a long tag for signal, but it didn't matter when the cable broke above it all and it all went

why do you say it has gone the way of the dinosaur, do you use a different model or have a different way of knowing your down speed?

[chinook35]

Cannon has stopped making the SNT. When ours die or go to visit Davie Jones , we will have to find a differnt brand to sacrifice to the fish gods .

[jer9580]

I didn't know they quit making it, I think I'll change now seems how I lost the probe. Anyone with suggestions, I'm leaning towards a subtroll for 2 reasons, 1 their made locally, and 2 they have the cheapest probe to replace

[IRISH56]

Depth Raider - same basis principal as the sub-troll (cheaper probe replacement cost when I bought mine ... has that changed?) except smaller display, probe and digital v. analog display. Fished with both, my opinion DR is the better option.

DAN

[jer9580]

I think the probes are about the same in price, so the depth raider probe is smaller than the sub troll's?, I like that would probably mean less blowback, and I guess digital display would probably be a little easier to read. Thanks for the input

[CBish]

I didn't know they quit making it, I think I'll change now seems how I lost the probe. Anyone with suggestions

The X-4 fishhawk is the way of the future but here today. Rock solid readings, long battery life and best of all non coated cable and removable probe!!!

Contact A-tom-mik for price and availablility

CC

[Tim Bromund]

Carl, you keep bringing up the removable prove as though it's different from the others. They are all removable, see the picture on page 1 of the modified Klincher. I've said it before and I'll say it again, the complaints about the coated cable are just so much marketing BS. No offense, but I'd rather have coated cable than drill more holes in my transom to mount another transducer.

Tim

[ray koziatek]

i ant getting in between these two ...............................................................fish hawk 7 years old and original probe.........................................im running.....................>>>>>>>>>>>

[LIQUID PLUMBER]

The only thing on my boat older than my fish hawk is ME. I have had it on my last 3 boats and only had a problem once when I upgraded fishfinder and they made a filter at fish hawk and it took care of it. The only trouble I had with the probe was a broken wire that I broke. I losen the cap when I store the probe between trips.

Del

[Gray Fox]

I run a depth raider and have more bare spots (coating gone) on my cable than I can count. Some are close to 6 inches in length. All caused by tangles and such over the last three seasons. My depth raider still provides rock solid readings with the bare spots. Last month at the bar I had it down 135 for a few hours and never had a problem getting a reading.

[jer9580]

I myself think I would rather go with coated cable than a transducer beacause I agree with not putting any more holes in the boat and don't want interference with the finder. But I hope to find a reliable cable that won't cost me probes. If the cables can't withstand fishing and keep costing me probes than that's no good and would rather mount another transducer and use a good uncoated cable. My main thing is I want a set up that will last, I would rather buy more spoons than keep replacing probes all the time. My first one only lasted a month which down right disgusted me after all the prep and care I took to not lose it.

[jer9580]

Oh and I would like to add that I would also have to have the marina pull my boat just so I could install a transducer, so there is another expense I have to think about.

So I think I am leaning towards a depth raider at this point

Gray fox did you use cable that came with the depth raider? How about the rest of the factory setup?

[jer9580]

But don't get me wrong about the fish hawk, it is not out of the question, I am still weighing them out, I only want to buy and hook this up once and would like to get at least a few years out of it. So I appreciate all the input in helping with the decision.

[CBish]

Jer,

You should buy whatever you think is the best unit. Whatever your choice I hope that the experience you have with the system you choose is as good and as long lasting as the experience that Ray K, Liquid Plumber and I have had. Good luck.

Good Fishin'

Capt. Carl

Ps. I know that Ray and I have logged THOUSANDS of hours on the lake in the last 6 years, I don't know LP but sounds like he is an old timer as well. TIFWIW

[jer9580]

Thanks for all the help you guys I greatly appreciate it. I'm still debating what unit to go with, I guess I am not really partial to any of them as I am sure they all serve the purpose. I am just trying to find the one that I have confidence in lasting as this will be my second unit for the year. Right now I have no confidence in my cable ,releases, and am scared to put another piece of equipment on it. I don't mind learning curves but can't afford to learn by replacing expensive electronics every other trip.

Anyways I took a look at that new x-4 fish hawk and it looks like a very good unit, bit more pricey but if I don't lose the pobe for a couple years it would even out.