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short Coppers and swivels


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I have rigged up a few short coppers with 50lb braid backer, 30' mono board section, 45 copper (75', 100' 150') and 30' of 20lb Big Game mono leaders. Board line to copper and copper to leader connections are with spro swivels using haywire twist and shrink tube. My question is; should I use a swivel somewhere in the leader?  Snap swivel (as opposed to just snap) to bait connection or is the swivel at the copper to leader connection sufficient to prevent line twist and allow baits to run properly? Thanks for any input!

Edited by SusanJames
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I would terminate with a ball-bearing snap swivel at the end.  Smaller size for spoons and larger size for flashers.  Coppers tangles are fun enough when they happen...best not to wrap all your leader up the line if you can avoid it.  I did tie directly when using a J-plug

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I currently terminate my flat lines with a beadchain swivel and 7' flouro leader to the snap. Seems like the same would be good with copper?

Edited by SusanJames
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I dont see much advantage in using just a snap in most trolling applications.  If I was really worried about impacting the action of the lure or wanted additional stealth I would, personally, tie direct.  I use small good quality ball bearing snap swivels in the 50# range on the business end of just about everything I pull. Really cant say i ever had an issue with line twist even when I can see a lure helicoptering on the way back in.

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I would recommend a quality ball bearing swivel at the business end of your coppers. I would also recommend a longer leader length. I personally like 36' of fluoro for my coppers.

 

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On 10/24/2024 at 4:47 PM, Legacy said:

I would recommend a quality ball bearing swivel at the business end of your coppers. I would also recommend a longer leader length. I personally like 36' of fluoro for my coppers.

 

 

I use 37' :rofl:

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3 hours ago, chowder said:

Just curious if you’re using old school copper or the newer weighted steel line? I Agree with others; terminate with a high quality coastal snap style swivel 

 

I, personally, have not gone to weighted steel for a few reasons. #1 proven by Smart Troll it doesn't have the dive curve of copper. #2 just to keep things simple with one dive curve to remember across the board. That being said I hear its much more user friendly, but I was also blown away by the Morgan's Tackle super copper with the tinned coating. We've used another brand for a long time and the tinned Morgan's was much more user friendly this season.

Edited by Yankee Troller
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More user friendly for sure, bit more difficult to deal with for power pro to main line and back to leader( it’s abrasive). I do use Smart Troll for divers and riggers but my coppers( 2 per side ) are ‘where they are’, since there’s 4 different depths covered by them I don’t sweat the dive curve too much. I’m typically looking for a ‘hot presenter’ in one of the 3 rigger rods or one of the 4 diver rods and then hopefully a copper puts a fish or 3 in the box. 😎

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I think its worth noting that terminating weighted steel is a lot more difficult than copper.  I never liked crimps and they dont go through the guides very well.  Personally, I splice weighted steel but it is very difficult especially if you dont have very good eyes.

 

The trick is to pull leaders off the spool 7 times (for luck).  Mine end up at about 38' when done (I'm pretty tall).  Your length may vary but it is the 7 pulls that infuses a bit of luck that is the secret  =0)

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As far as short board lines go I guess I’ll add that copper or weighted steel is definitely not my go to. I have developed a a long standing preference for leadcore for those applications. It’s my distinct suspicion that core gives me a more undulating, ‘natural’ , presentation especially with stix and small spoons.For July salmon trips I do use 150 , 200 and 250 short coppers with large spoons and MagLips and for August walleye trips I do use shorter ‘walleye coppers’, 200, 250, 300 usually with larger stix 

Edited by chowder
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