set up downrigger

[robert nagy]

I have a 17 ft legend, double console. I wans to set up downriggers on each side but do not have access underneath due to about 6 inches of styrofoam blocking access to put another plate underneath for stronger support. I'm afraid if I put screws directly thru, the weight of the rigger ball and the drag willl pull it out. On the rigger plate, I drilled holes and installed at a 90 degree angle another plate which I want to screw into inner wall. this way It will be held from the top and inner side. Is this a good Idea?

Are there any suggestions for setting up.

Thanks

fish fanatic

[Trolling82]

My advice is to make it so strong you'll never have to worry about it. The worst is when you accidentally/purposefully drag bottom. That tends to make the riggers jump a bit!

Better safe than sorry.... might want to remove just enough styrofoam. Screws are made for pull strength. Put any stress on them from the side and they snap like tooth picks. You had better go with bolts and a backer plate/board. You might be able to get away with screws as long as they are really heavy duty (lags) and you are screwing them into something thick.

IMHO

[Tim Bromund]

I had the same situation on my Thompson, I ended up just cutting/raking out a 6"x6" section of the floatation foam all the way to the underside of the gunwales at each location so I could mount the riggers and rod holders properly.

Tim

[LongLine]

Tim's idea is good. Try to cut out a block of the s-foam, mount a plate then possibly glue the s-foam back in. Riggers realy do need that backing plate. It's not just bouncing bottom but the up/down motion thru the waves that stresses the mounting.

Tom B.

(LongLine)

[Mickey Finn]

I too would recommend removing the foam but I don't think I'd replace it unless you have too. You will want access to those nuts under there to check them once in a while. They sometimes loosen up. It's also not a bad idea to add the screws or bolts through the side as you mentioned if you can. You can't build it too strong.

[Jack]

I have seen when they mount bow mounted trolling motors they sometimes use well nuts . Minn Kota has a Quick Nut they use( check their web site ). I would think they could work on your riggers .

Just a thought ! Good Luck !

http://www.estcoenterprises.com/well-nuts.html

[Big Dave]

I wouldn't put the price of a rigger up against the price of the well nut . Thats a lot of stress to gamble with that small surface area. Be lazy and do it right once!!

[robert nagy]

Thank you all for your advice. I will remove as much foam as I can. I guess I have no other choice.

Fish Fanatic

[HPORT]

Would a board across the back work? The DR would still be on the sides ( end of the board), but you would have a board across the back of the boat to distrubute the force. Granted you will still have to remove the foam to bolt the board down, but you will have more room and stronger mounts. You could use 3x6" aluminum box tubing instead of wood.

[Richard Bullen]

For support under the gunales I use the Decking boards made from recycled plastic (won't rot) cut to fit under gunales after removing styrofaom. I screw the DR plate thru the gunale and into the deck board more than secure

[wonderboy]

I use 3/4" plywood 8"x8" for backing plate, never had a problem. i wouldn't worry about putting back the s-foam back. that little bit woun't sink the boat. lol Ciao Wonderboy

[TrOuT-MaN]

On my boat i had tomount my riggers on the back fold open doors so what i did was buy bigger hinges and i used 6x6 by 1/4 inch steel plates i had powder coated at work for free and used that as my backing plates.

On yours iwould do liek every one else said but instead of wood i would use thick steel plates,as it will not rot/rust if you paint/powder coat and spreads out the pulling force.Also run the biggestbolts possible.

[dreucarver]

I've rigged 5 boats with DRs and I definitely would use the most robust backer plates you can insert udner your gunnels. I rigged one Thompson, we cut away foam and installed wassive plates mfg'd from aircraft grade alum. I also used type 3 lock-tie to secure the bolts I never had a nut work loose ( I checked them for 3 or 4 years and then not again until I sold the boat).

Dreucarver.