Carb cleaner question

[Gill-T]

If I pull my fuel filter next spring and refill it with a 50/50 fuel to seafoam gas treatment before reinstalling it, would there be any deleterious effects on my motor? I see these carb cleaner sprays, but they are only going to clean the bowl and air baffles then fall into the engine. The fuel inlets would not get touched with a spray right? My thought is by placing the gas treatment in the fuel filter it will get where it needs to go. WHAT SAY YOU MOTOR HEADS?

[borderline 350]

Dear GT, This may help a little....but it does not get to the air bleeds that need to be open for the idle circuits to function properly. The small clear soft gel deposits that I saw this year INSIDE the float bowls of marine Q-jets was the result of long term storage. And these had fuel preservatives added to the tank upon intial storage. I believe you need to add preservative directly into the carb bowl vents to protect the carb. during long term storage. The Holley carbs are especialy prone to storage problems because of their metal alloy composition. I now fill the Holley bowls with ATF fluid to prevent severe internal corrosion. Long term storage is getting to be a big headache for everyone!....Respectfully submitted....Jet Boat Bill

[Gill-T]

Thanks Bill.......how are you using the ATF fluid.....spray bottle? ......what is your start up proceedure come spring. Do you need to remove the ATF before restart. Are you pulling the carb each winter?

[borderline 350]

Dear GT,

I use Dexron ATF pumped in with a hand pump oil can. Restart in spring is more difficult!! But a lot cheaper than a carb. rebuild. I pump raw gasoline with a squirt can and try and flush the oil out.....CAUTION HERE!! Fire & spill problems can occur! Exercise extreme caution!! No, I do not take the carb. off......Sincerely, Jet Boat Bill.............P.S. I see your looking for early MAG 10 parts. I have one new in the package Cannon Short Stop board with wires. $50.00 shipped

[Gill-T]

I was having carb (I believe) issues at end of season with stalling while docking. New shift cable, spark plugs and wires. Oil smelled really gassy when I changed it in spring. Been five years since last rebuild. Considering the cost of rebuild, I am thinking of just buying a new carb so I have a spare in waiting. Any thoughts on the best marine carb for my 305?

[rolmops]

If you properly winterize you should never have to rebuild a carb.I usually run seafoam in the fuel every third tank and when it is time to winterize I disconnect the fuel lines and drain them,then drain the carburetor fuel bowls and clean them.Replace fuel filters.Then remove the spark plugs and spray seafoam deep creep into the carb throat while turning the engine with the starter. Next I spray seafoam deep creep through the spark plug holes into the cylinders and turn them over by hand.Now put the plugs back in and your engine and carburetor are ready for winter and next year.

This has worked for me the past 12 years without ever having to rebuild a carb.

[Knotlost]

Wow, I guess I'm looking for problems? I always add the marine stabil in the fuel and give a little extra dose on the last tank, and make sure its been run into the motor. Then I drain the block etc, pour antifreeze in though it and let that drain out as well and leave it till spring. And I do nothing with the gas system. In the spring I put the cooling system back to gether, hook up the muffs and start it, I always wait till I have run it for 15 to 20 Min's before changing the gas/water separator filter in case there is water in the tank as I want it in the old filter and not the bran new one I'm about to put on. So far for the last 15 years its starts fast at least I think so, normally in 5 seconds. But I might add I always use higher octane gas in the boat, never the low octane, maybe that helps, and I always use synthetic oil in the motor. Of course I do lead a very blessed life